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Yours in Christian Love, 

George Lambert. 



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Around the Globe 



AND THROUGH 



BIBLE Lands 



NOTES AND OBSERVATIONS 

On the Various Countries Through^ Wiiicl-i the 
Writer Traveled. 



ILLUSTRATED. 



BY George Lambert. 



* 



^(!Va-Ci; ■ 



FROM THE PRESS 0F\ ' . - oi I -7 W 



MENNONITE PUBLISHING 

ELKHART, INDIANA. 

issa. 



r^sai^ffiANf! '^'^'^ I 




Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1896, 
by George Lambert, in the office of the Librarian of 
Congress, at Washington. All rights reserved. 



\^^ \ 



<&Jfi 



tS)eelicG^tion. 



To nty beloVed Wife, {\\e cl^oice of 
my yoUtl^, and {\}e Ise^t ^ift of ©od io 

To oUr cl^tldren wVcl^ ©od ^oiVe U5 
Q.n(^ WI70 ^tood fey \15 50 fattl7f\illy during 
tl^e^e W(anderin^5, 

To nty frlend5 Wl^o encoUra^ed me 
during m.y traVe^, and to ^1^056 reqUe^t- 
tn^ and Ur^in^ tl^e pUfelication of ^1^15 
feook, 

I affectionately dedicate tl^e ^ame. 

©eor^e L.am.feert, 



PREFACE. 



Greeting: — Why another book meets you in the open 
field, among thousands of others, and which, like others, must 
stand on its own merits, is. Inasmuch as the author believes 
that as every man in this world has his own special calling, 
duty or mission to fulfill, so have also the good books that 
have been handed down to us; and by the grace of God, they 
have been the means of enlightening, instructing and educat- 
ing the human family, and of bringing them into a closer 
relationship with each other in this world of Christian use- 
fulness. 

This work treats on foreign mission lands, mission work 
and other topics of interest to Bible students in general as 
they are observed by those visiting these countries. It is an 
act of charity and Christian kindness to be interested in our 
brethren beyond the seas; and though the}' are of different 
nationality, and many of them far inferior in intelligence, 
science, arts and education to the civilized Christian nations, 
we ought to remember that they are our brethren, for He 
"hath made of one blood all nations of men for to dwell on all 
the face of the earth." 

There is no closer relation existing anywhere than the 
relation between the Christian church at home and Christian 
missions in foreign lands. Hence, all should learn to know 
more about them and become personally interested in the 
great mission work of this Christian nation. There is no 
closer relation existing anywhere than the relation between 
the Bible and Bible lands, and these are so closely interwoven 



PKEFACE. 7 

that traces confirming the truth of the teachings of God's 
Holy Word, are seen on every hand. The writer has 
given briefly the facts as he observed them during his travels, 
to the best of his knowledge, without the least exaggeration, 
with notes, references, extracts and statistics, as he has 
found them accurate, interesting and beneficial. 

The author is greatly indebted to different guide-books: 
Murray's Handbook on Japan, Madras Publications on India 
and Bible Lands, Baedeker on Lower Egypt, Baedeker's Pal- 
estine and Syria, and especially to the " Journeys of Jesus " 
by Dr. Addison D. Crabtre, from which, through the kind- 
ness of the Mennonite Publishing Company, he has been 
permitted to use a number of illustrations. All of these 
works are considered very reliable. 

As the author has been permitted to visit a number of 
missions in foreign lands, and has seen the need of making 
special efforts to aid these institutions in their work of Chris- 
tianizing these heathen countries, and since many appeals 
for help were made to him, it is his sincere purpose and 
desire to set apart a certain percentage of the proceeds from 
the sale of this book for foreign missions, as the Lord 
may direct. 

It is the prayer of the author that these lines, as they go 
out on their mission, may be the means of creating a deeper 
interest in the hearts of the readers, and aid them by im- 
parting such knowledge as will inspire them to look up and 
reach out, under the blessing of God, to greater usefulness. 

George Lambeet, 
Elkhart, Indiana. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I.— Introduction 14 

CHAPTER II,— Passports and Moneys.— Table of Eoreign 

Moneys — Sample Passport — Table of Comparative Time 17 

CHAPTER III.— Leaving Home.— Farewell— Fears for Safe 
Return — Accompanied to Chicago by a Friend — Chicago Mission 
— Salt Lake— Mountains and Deserts— Our Western Metropolis 
— Chinatown — Starting for the Land of the Rising Sun— Good 
Byes— Music — Golden Gate 25 

CHAPTER IV. — Out on the Deep. — Ship Rolls — Seasickness 
— Missionaries — Tourists— The Ship like a Country Town -Farm 
Yard— Honolulu— Queen's Palace— Productions— Water Melons 
— Leprosy — Leper Doctor — Part Forever — Doctors as Mission- 
aries—Natives—Out on the Deep — Sea Rough — Waves Mountain 
High — Crossing the Meridian— Torpedo Lines— Turtle Soup — 
Native Boats 28 

CHAPTER v.— Yokohama and Kamakura.— Main Sea Port— 
Jinrikishas — Kamakura — Gods of War — Daibutsu — Dimensions 
of this Idol— Goddess of Mercy — "Where is your God?" — "I See 
It" — Learn to Know Thyself 39 

CHAPTER VI.— ToKio.— A Missionary's Statement— The War 
Spirit— Shaven Eyebrows and Blackened Teeth — Visits through 
Tokio — Japanese Dinner with Chopsticks— Women Bought and 
Sold— Legalized Prostitution — Bath Rooms — Crematory — Prod- 
ucts — Fujiyama — Manner of Constructing Buildings — Cemeter- 
ies — Idols — AVomen as Slaves 46 

CHAPTER VII.— Kobe, Nagasaki and Hong Kong.— Wid- 
owed Mother and Child — Kobe — Inland Sea — Nagasaki — City of 
the Dead — Child taken from its Mother — War Vessels — Services 
on board Ship — Hong Kong — Seamen's Mission — Street Sights. . 01 

CHAPTER VIII. — Singapore and Colombo. —Services on 
board Ship — Singapore — Sea Shells — All kinds of Work done on 
the Streets — Chats with People of Different Nationalities — Poor 
Meals — Mission Service— Penang — Island of Sumatra — Colombo . H»i 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 9 

CHAPTER IX.— Madras.— Transferred to the Khedive— Sailing 
on Bay of Bengal— Population of Madras— Seat of Government 
— Compared with other Nations — Ninety to Ninety-flve per cent. 
Poor People — Women carrying Brick and Mortar — Ear, Nose, 
and Neck Jewels — Low Wages — Buildings — Bungals — Huts — 
Penitentiary — An American in Prison — Dangers of our Young 
People 72 

CHAPTER X.— Mission Work.- Missionaries — Fifteen Dollars 
Per Year Furnishes All — Who were the Men of God — Theosophy 
— Missions — Castes — Christmas Songs — Meeting of Missionaries 
— Rev. Halicham Bannagee 80 

CHAPTER XL — Madras to Calcutta. — Meeting the Amer- 
ican Party — Services on Board — Hugh River — The immense 
Wash of the Hugli River — Sagar Island — Dangerous Passage — 
Jungles— Met many Ships and Boats— Calcutta 89 

CHAPTER XII.— Calcutta.— City of Palaces— "A Globe Trot- 
ter" — Bathing in the Sacred River — Mission Service— Burning 
Gnatt — Infant Weddings — Widowhood — Tombstone of an 
American, and a Brother's Words 92 

CHAPTER XIII.-BENARES.-Railroad yiccommodations-ANice 
Country — Temples and Mosques — Bloody Sacrifices— Monkey 
Temple — Animal Worship — Pilgrims — The Treacherous Lie — 
A Hindoo Saying — "Sons of the Ganges" — Distances and Fares 
— Disgraceful Carvings— Dancing Girls 100 

CHAPTER XIV.— Allahabad.— Junction of Sacred Rivers- 
Thousands of Pilgrims — Banners and Flags Floating — Under- 
ground Temple — Suicide — Brahmans Drowning-^Prayag — India 
Productions and Animals — English Officers — Forts^Soldiers . . . 108 

CHAPTER XV.— Bombay.— Population— Streets— Buildings — 
Missions — Hospital for Aged Bullocks — Ant Feeding— Child 
Widows — Elephanta Caves 114 

CHAPTER XVI.— Parsees.— Principal Merchants— Worship the 
Four Elements — Child Training — Marriage — Marriageable Age 
— Marriage Fund — Funeral — Preparing the Dead — "Towers of 
Silence" 122 

CHAPTER XVIL— Bombay to EoYrT.— Farewell to India- 
War Vessels — Rev. and Mrs. Hazen — Arabian Sea — Aden — Red 
Sea in Sight — Bible Lands — Crossing of the Israelites — Mount 
Sinai — Suez — The Canal — Short cut Around the Globe — Bitter 
Lake — Crocodile Lake and Ismalia 139 



I 



10 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

CHAPTER XVIII.~The Land of the Pharaohs.— Mixed 

Population — Streets Crowded — Water Carriers — Turbans — Orna- 
ments — Veiling of Women (Single, Married) — Child Carrying — 
Water Fountain — Moslem's Prayer 151 

CHAPTER XIX. — Dervishes and the Tombs. — Dancing and 
Howling Dervishes and Mode of Worship — Citadel— Tombs of 
the Mamelukes— Khalifs— Mosque of Sultan Hasan— Tombs of 
the Khedives — Island of Roida — Coptic Church — Holy Family 
Sheltered — Joseph's Well — American Mission 1(50 

CHAPTER XX.— The Pyramids, and Up the Nile.— Pyra- 
mids — Sphinx— Memphis— Up the Nile — Water Wheels — Work- 
ing in the Fields— Necropolis — Ramses 11. — Sakkara — Apis 
Tombs — Sacred Bulls— Passage to the Tombs — Monster Coffins 
— Mariette — Lasting Impressions 170 

CHAPTER XXL— Museum of Gizeh and Heliopolis.— Mu- 
seum — Egyptian Collections — Coffins — Mummies — Different Ne- 
cropoles— Ancient Jewelry — Ornaments — Obelisk of Heliopolis 
— Virgin and Child Hid — Palm Trees — Land of Goshen — Canals 
—Railroad Cut 182 

CHAPTER XXIL— Port Said, Egypt, to Joppa, Pales- 
tine. — History — Sailing for Joppa — Land in View — Joppa Sea 
Port — Passport — Hotels — House of Simon the Tanner — Plain of 
Sharon — Flowers and Productions — Railroad — Stations — Orange 
Groves — Jerusalem — Confusion 187 

CHAPTER XXIIL— Jerusalem and its History.- Visitor's 
First Impression — Interest Grows— Jerusalem not a Place of 
xlmusement — King David's Reign— Character of the City — An- 
cient Walls— Mount Zion— Solomon's Reign— The City Beauti- 
fied — Jerusalem Destroyed and Rebuilt — 200 

CHAPTER XXIV.— Jerusalem from Hezekiah's Reign to 
THE Present Time. — Jews Carried into Captivity — Solomon — 
Treasures Stolen from Temple and Carried to Babylon — Temple 
Burned— Jews Return — Destruction and Bloodshed — Herod 
Captured the City— The City Enriched— Time of Christ— AVas 
Taken by the Persians— Fell to the Egyptians— Saladin Captured 
the City— Kharezmians Took it by Storm— Under Turkish Rule. 207 

CHAPTER XXV.— Solomon's Temple. City Walls— Pools— 
Houses— Streets — Climate — Its Water Supply — Population- 
Mosque of Omar or Solomon's Temple— Mount Moriah — Rock 
in Interior — From where Christ Drove the Changers — Abraham 
and Melchizedek Sacrificing— Well of Souls— Golden Nails- 
Blowing the Trumpet — Calling to Judgment— AVire Rope across 
the Valley— Vaults— Stables of Solomon 210 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 11 

CHAPTEE XXVI.— Calvary and Tomb of Christ.— Jews' 

Wailing Place— Chanting — Immense Stones — Golgotha— Grotto 
of Jeremiah — The Cross Conquered the World — Dearest Spot 
on Earth— Eent in the Kock — Consoling Angel — Turkish Offi- 
cials — Different Chapels — Decoration 223 

CHAPTER XXVII.— Easter in Jerusalem.— Exciting Scenes 
— Easter Festival— Grand Mass — Good Friday — Holy Fire — Im- 
mense Crowds— Church Illuminated — Fighting and Accidents — 
Rough Mannered Officials — Wildest Confusion — Turning Somer- 
saults 234 

CHAPTER XXVIII.— Missions, and Jewish Passover.— Mis- 
sions— German and English Services — Jewish Passover — Two 
Million Souls — Passover Services in Every House — Messiah 
Comes — Wine and Unleavened Bread— Greek Foot-washing — 
Latin Foot- washing — St. Stephens' Gate— Pool of Bethesda — Via 
Dolorosa — Ecce Homo Arch — House of Dives — Bathing the 
Stones with Tears 240 

CHAPTER XXIX.— Streets and Shops. — Streets — Lanes- 
Grain Markets — Bazaars — Jewish Quarters — Shops — Castle of 
David — Jaffa Gate — Valley of Hinnom — Burial Grounds— Gihon 
— Official Buildings — Hospitals — Zion's Gate — Coenaculum — 
Tombs of Kings, David and Solomon — Outpouring of the Holy 
Ghost — Washing of the Apostles' Feet — Last Supper — House of 
Caiaphas 252 

CHAPTER XXX.— A Walk to Gethsemane.— Valley of Kid- 
ron — Beggars — Lepers — Hospital — List of Lepers — Stephen 
Stoned — Virgin's Tomb — Cavern of Agony — Gethsemane — Sor- 
rowful Event — Affecting Scenes in the Garden — Mount of Olives 
— Trees and Shrubs 2G0 

CHAPTER XXXL— Mount of Olives and Surroundings. — 
Church of the Lord's Prayer — Ascension — Great Ingathering — 
Russian Building — Valley of Jehoshaphat — Resurrection — Absa- 
lom's Tomb — Grotto of St. James — Village of Siloah — Pool of 
Siloah— St. Mary's Well 270 

CHAPTER XXXIL— A Visit to Bethlehem.—" Hill of Evil 
Counsel" — Tree on which Judas Hanged Himself-Boundary Line 
— Well of Magi— Rachel's Tomb — Bethlehem — Naomi— Ruth — 
Boaz— David Anointed — Church of the Nativity — Manger — 
" Milk Grotto " — David's Well— Shepherd's Field — Cave of 
Adullam 280 

CHAPTER XXXIIL— From Jerusalem down to Jericho.— 
Bethany — Home of Jesus — House of Mary and Martha— Laza- 
rus' Tomb — Stone of Rest- Apostles' Springs-" Valley of Achor " 
Way of Blood — Modern Jericho — Balsam Gardens 291 



12 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

CHAPTEE XXXIV. — Jericho, Jordan, and Dead Sea. — 

Jericho— Thorns— Balm of Gilead— Apples of Sodom— Elisha's 
Spring— House of Rahab— Forty Days' East— Bobbers- Jordan 
— Man Drowned— Bathing in Jordan — Dead Sea. — Camels — 
Mountains of Moab— American Party 300 

CHAPTEE XXXV.— Hebron and Cave of Maohpelah.— 
Solomon's Pools — Aqueducts— Tomb of the Prophet Jonah — 
Valley of Eschol— History of Hebron— Great Stones— Tombs of 
Abraham, Isaac and Jacob with their Wives — Jewish Prayer— 
" Christians," " Dogs" — Missions — Pilgrimages 313 

CHAPTEE XXXVL— Emmaus and Samuel's Tomb.— Tombs- 
Rough Roads— Samuel's Tomb — Christ met the Disciples — Em- 
maus— Lord made Himself Known— Stone Structure — Mount- 
ains and Eavines — Brooks — AVhere David Slew the Giant— 
Eeturn to Jerusalem — Leaving the Holy City 320 

CHAPTEE XXXVII.— Mount Carmel.— Leaving Joppa-Haifa 
(Acre) — Mount Carmel — Elijah's Castle — Phoenicia — Baal 
Worshipers 328 

CHAPTEE XXXVIIL— Tyre and Sidon.— Ancient Euins— 
Bible Times — Crowning City— Bobbed of Its Treasures— Top of 
a Bock — Zarephath 334 

CHAPTEE XXXIX.— Nazareth and Hills of Galilee.— 
Kishon — Home of Zebedee — Nazareth — Home of Jesus— Sheep 
and Goats — Streets — St. Mary's Well — Mount Tabor — Hills of 
Galilee — Bedouin Camps— Tiberas — Sea of Galilee — A Night of 
Misery 338 

CHAPTEE XL.— Sea of Galilee and Adjacent Points.— 
Gennesaret — Description — Magdala — Capernaum — Chorazin — 
Bethsaida — Sea of Galilee— Plain of the Eive Thousand— Cana 
of the Bible — Saul's Battle-ground — Arabs Plowing 346 

CHAPTEE XLI.-Beirut and Damascus.— Beirut— Diligence— 
Eailroad — Lebanon Mountains — Mount Hermon — Druses — Mas- 
sacring Maronites — European Commission — Damascus — History 354 

CHAPTER XLIL— Damascus.— Population— Naaman — Saul's 
Conversion— Street called Straight — HLouse of Ananias — Tomb 
of St. George — Window from which Paul Escaped — Visitors in 
Damascus — Dogs— Moneys — Over the Lebanon Mountains by 
Moon Light — Turkish Funeral .360 

CHAPTER XLIIL— Beirut to Smyrna and Ephesus.— Tri- 
poli — Orange Mart — Island of Cyprus — Larnaka — Simasol — Man 
Overboard — Island of Ehodes — Carrying their Beds — Island of 
Chios— Smyrna — By Train to Ephesus 367 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 13 

CHAPTER XLIV.-EPHESUS.-Temple of Diana-Paul in Ephesus 
— Home of St. John — Tomb of St. Luke — Euins of Marble — 
Modern Ephesus — Leaving for Greece 374 

CHAPTER XL v.— Athens, Greece.— Paul in Athens— Mars 
Hill— The Unknown God — New Doctrine — Paul's Success 381 

CHAPTER XL VI. — Athens and Corinth. — Grecian Funeral — 
Priest Begging Alms — King's Gardens and Palace — Tour to 
Corinth — Corinthian Canal — Paul at Corinth 387 

CHAPTER XL VII.— From Corinth to Naples, Italy.— 
Harvest in Greece — Patres — Business Houses open on Sunday — 
A Fight — Out on the Deep — American Party^Island Cofu — 
Brindisi, Italy — Country — Naples — Mount Vesuvius — Pompeii — 
Election — Funeral procession — Tour to Rome 394 

CHAPTER XL VIIL— Ancient Rome. — Center of the Ancient 
World — Other Nations Robbed of their Treasures — Paul in Rome 
— Puteoli — Three Taverns — Paul's Imprisonment 401 

CHAPTER XLIX.— Modern Rome.— Art Productions — Great 
Cathedrals — St. Peter's Church — Ancient Ruins 407 

CHAPTER L.— Homeward Bound. — Florence, Italy —Basel, 
Switzerland — Paris, France — London, England — Crossing the 
Atlantic— New York, U. S. A— Home 410 








CHAPTER I. 

Introduction. 

FEW years ago, in the heart of the Rocky 
Mountains, a gentleman encountered a French 
priest, his locks completely white with age, 
traveling apparently for pleasure. Astonished 
at the sight, he ventured to inquire what had induced him at 
this time of life to go so far from home. 

'"Tisvery easily explained," replied the priest. "Six 
months ago I was apparently about to die. One night I 
dreamed that I was already in God's presence and that He 
spoke to me these words: "My child, how did you like the 
beautiful world 1 gave you to dwell in?" I made no answer, 
in fact I was too mortified to make an intelligent reply. For 
think of it, I, who had preached for fifty years continually 
of a better world, had never examined this one at all. Awak- 
ing from my dream I made a vow to God, that if He gave 
me back my health, I would devote some months, at least, to 
seeing and admiring His works. So here I am making a tour 
of the world." 

Many have been the number, during the last twenty 
years, who have made this tour, and given the benefit of 
their experiences to others, who could not make the trip for 
themselves. Those who make these circuits, however, often 
have varied experiences, aiid are required to endure exposure 
in many ways, and to practice self-denials that are not 



INTEODUCTION. 15 

always pleasant. They are frequently in danger; they are 
overtaken by storms both on land and sea; they may often 
be obliged to elbow their way through difficulties and un- 
pleasant crowds in both heathen and in Bible lands, while 
others are in their homes enjoying the comforts of life, read- 
ing, and improving their minds from the trying experiences 
of those who have traveled, and have given to the world 
what they saw and heard, and in this way their work has 
proved a blessing both at home and abroad. 

All of us cannot, it is true, make these extended trips, 
but during the years and centuries that have passed since the 
first man made the tour around the world, traveling has be- 
come comparatively easy, and ocean voyages have to a great 
extent lost their terrors on account of the immense steam- 
ships and the complete system of navigation. 

"Man is wonderfully and fearfully made," and while the 
works of the Most High are marvelous in the creation of all 
things, man is the greatest of all. Men differ in their qual- 
ities, graces, temperaments and dispositions, being born and 
brought up in different homes and under different influences; 
while the great God, the Father of all, is not partial, but 
gives to all a talent or more and calls them to their particular 
work and mission. To Him be all honor and glory. 

Ever since the author was a boy and had learned that 
the world was so great and contained so many different peo- 
ple (with so many different modes of living) many of whom 
worship and serve dumb idols instead of the true and living 
God, he longed to visit, see and hear them. To the sorrow 
of his heart he has seen and heard, and therefore knows 
that these things are even so. Many, even the great majority 
of the people, do not know or hear of the Bible, or of Christ 



16 



AROUND THE GLOBE. 



as the Saviour of the world. Since the writer first learned in 
early youth of the land in which the men of the Bible lived 
and suffered, the land in which Christ performed His mission, 
and the hallowed grounds upon which His holy feet trod, 
he has had a longing desire to visit that country; and this 
has seemed to be his strongest inclination in connection 
with ministerial work. 

At last, by the providence of God, the writer believes, and 
the aid of a good wife and children, the way was opened for 
him to make the great tour around the world, and he here 
gives the readers some of the information gathered, which he 
hopes will prove interesting and instructive. 





CHAPTEE II. 

Passports and Moneys. 

BOVE all things it is necessary to learn in 
advance what the necessities are for a tour of 
this kind. Those who wish a more extensive 
outline and information are referred to Thos. 
Cook & Son, 262 Broadway, New York, where all the 
information on the subject of traveling, carrying money, 
the banking system in foreign lands, and also the circular 
note and letter of credit system, can be obtained. The latter 
is a very good way to carry money without being in danger 
of losing it or of being robbed. Any amount of money 
can be drawn and also exchanged in any country or main 
city in the world. 

PASSPORTS. 

It is of great importance to have a passport for iden- 
tification at post offices, banks, and before officials in 
foreign lands and in crossing the lines and being admitted 
into some of the public places. 

In Turkey it is impossible to travel into the interior 
without a passport, and a man is always credited for 
carrying one. 

A passport can be obtained by applying to the Secretary 
of State at Washington, D. C. A blank will be sent to 
you together with instructions how to fill it out; and by 
having it acknowledged before a Justice of the Peace or 



18 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

Notary Public, and returned with one dollar included for 
the fee, you will receive your passport, which is an hon- 
orable document for one to carry. We will here give a 
complete copy of the passport which we carried. 

FOREIGN MONEYS. 
JAPAN. 

10 rin = 1 sen, 
100 sen = 1 yen. 
The currency consists of the following silver: 1 yen, 
50 sen, 20 sen, 10 sen and 5 sen. 

Copper: 2 sen, 1 sen, 5 rin and 1 rin. The yen is 
worth in exchange about 54 cents, United States money. 
Mexican silver dollars can be used at the treaty ports. 

CHINA. 

In the interior of China the only currency consists 
of brass coins, called cash, with a square hole in the center 
through which they are strung. Mexican and English 
dollars are used in the treaty ports, but going through 
the country each is exchanged for from 1,000 to 1,200 cash; 
a few dollars' worth make a load for a coolie. Mexican 
and English dollars are the same in value as the Japanese 
yen. 

TABLES OF FOREIGN MONEYS. 

EGYPT. TURKEY. 

Monetary Unit — the Piastre of 40 Monetary Unit — the Piastre of 40 
Paras. Paras. 

s. d. s. d. 

1 piastre nearly 2% 1 piastre nearly 2}4 

100 piastres = 1 Egyptian 20 " = 1 sUver 

P^^^^ 20 6 Tnediidie— S 4 

English sovereign = 97 piastres . ,^,^^®r:,. * 

20 paras. 100 piastres=l gold medjidie 

French napoleon=about 77.6 pias. or Turkish pound = 18 



^^ 




^t kT£S; 



GOOD ONLY FOR 

TWO YEARS FROM DATE. 




DEPf\RT/V\ENT of STflTE, 

Eo att to iDljoni tfjese presmts §(iaff come ^reelinfl: 

I, the undersigned, Secretary of State of the United States of America, 
hereby request all whom it may concern to permit 
George Lambert a Citizen of the United 
States safely and freely to pass, and in 
case of need to give him all lawful Aid 
and Protection. 



DESCRIPTION, 

Age, 41 years. 

Stature, 5 ft,, 8% in., Eng. 

Forehead, high. 

Eyes, grey. 

Nose, straight. 

Mouth, mediiun. 

Chin, medium. 

Hair, brown. 

Complexion, fair. 

race, medium. 

Signature of 

the Bearer. 



Geo. Lambert. 



SEAL. 



Given under my hand 
and the Seal of the De- 
partment of State, at the 
City of Washington, the 
13th day of August in 
the year 1894 and of the 
Independence of the 
United States the one 
hundred and nine"- 
teenth. 

W. Q. Gresham. 



C 



NO. 15669. 



PASSPOETS AKD MONEYS. 



21 



Bronze — 34 anna, about 



Silver- 



2 annas 
4 



INDIA. 

Monetary Unit — Eupee of 16 

Annas. 

s. d. 

m 

{)% 
2 
4 

8 " ""08 

" 1 rupee, " "14 
Notes of the value of 5, 10, 20, 50, 
100 rupees and upwards are in 
circulation. The rate of ex- 
change varies considerably. 

ITALY. 

Monetary Unit — the Lira of 100 
Centesimi. The money in general 
use is a paper currency in notes 
of— 5, 10, 25, 50, 100, 500, 1,000 lire. 
Gold is invariably at a premium. 
The Lire (notes, gold, or silver) 
=1 Pranc. {See France.) 

SWITZEELAND. 

Monetary Unit — the Pranc of 
100 Centimes. 



PEANCE. 



Bronze — 1 centime 


s. 


d. 


2 


(I 






Nickel— 5 


" 


= 


Q% 


10 


" 


" 


1 


20 


" 


" 


2 


Silver— 50 


u 


" 


m 


1 


franc 


" 


9^ 


2 


" 


" 1 


7 


5 


(( 


" 4 





Gold — 20 


i( 


" 16 






Notes of 50 francs, 100 francs, 500 
francs, and 1,000 francs are is- 
sued by several Swiss banks 
under arrangements with the 
Government, and are available 
throughout Switzerland, and are 
the same value as gold. 



Moneta 
Bronze 


ry Unit — the Pranc of 
Centimes. 

s. 
—5 centimes = 


lOO 
d. 


" 


10 


" 


1 


Silver- 


-20 


" 


2 


" 


50 


" 


m 


" 


1 franc 


" 


9 


" 


2 


" 1 


7 


" 


5 


" 4 





Gold- 


5 


" 4 





" 


10 


" 8 





K 


20 " The ' 


Na- 





poleon" or "Louis"= 16 
Notes are issued by the Bank] of 
Prance for 50 francs, 100 francs, 
500 francs, and 1,000 francs, and 
are the same value as gold. 

UNITED STATES, AMEEICA. 

Monetary Unit— 1 Dollar of 100 
Cents. 

s. d. 
Copper— 1 cent = Q}4. 

2 " "01 
Nickel— 3 cents " 1% 

5 " "0 21^ 

Silver— 3 " "0 l^i 

5 " "0 2% 

10 " (dime) "05 

25 '• " 1 QYz 

50 " "21 

1 dollar "42 

Gold— 1 " "42 

" 21^ " " 10 5 

3 " " 12 6 
5 " " 20 10 

10 " " 41 8 

20 " " 83 4 

Notes, Greenbacks, Gold Certifi- 
cates, Silver Certificates, and 
National Bank Notes are issued 
in amounts of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 
100, 500, 1,000 dollars and up- 
wards, and circulate at par with 
gold. 



22 



ABOUND THE GLOBE. 



Time. 

Time by the clock at the following places. When it is 
12 o'clock, noon, at New York, it is 

11:00 A.M. in Chicago, III. 
9:00 '' " San Francisco, Cal. 

2:15 " " Yokohama, Japan. 

12:23 " " Hong Kong, China. 

2:10 " " Adelaide, Australia. 

2:36 " " Melbourne, Australia. 

3:00 " " Sydney, Australia. 

4:00 P. M. " Ephesus, Asia Minor. 
11:51 " " Singapore, India. 

10:49 " " Calcutta, British India. 

10:17 " " Madras, British India. 

10:15 " " Colombo, Ceylon. 

9:47 " " Bombay, British India. 

7:56 " " Aden, Arabia. 

7:05 " " Jerusalem, Palestine. 

6:08 " " Brindisi, Italy. 

4:56 " " Greenwich, England. 

At home in the Northern Hemisphere the longest day 
is June 21st; the shortest, December 21st. In the Southern 
Hemisphere the longest day is December 21st, and the 
shortest, June 21st. 




CHAPTER HI. 




Leaving Home. 

FAREWELL — FEARS FOR SAFE RETURN — ACCOMPANIED TO CHICAGO 
BY A FRIEND— CHICAGO MISSION— SALT LAKE— MOUNTAINS AND 
DESERTS— OUR WESTERN METROPOLIS — CHINATOWN — 
STARTING FOR THE LAND OF THE RISING SUN- 
GOOD BYES— MUSIC— GOLDEN GATE. 

HE day of our departure from home drew near 
without the least obstacle being in the way, 
and we took it for granted that the Lord was 
pleased with our purpose, since our prayer 
had been that if it was not in accordance with the Divine 
Will, He should hinder us in our contemplated undertaking. 

On the 25th day of August, 1894, we bid adieu to our 
beloved family, wife and children, and many others who 
had met us at the railway station. Indeed it was like a 
man leaving his family and moving toward the battle field; 
especially after hearing some express themselves in words 
like these: "You will never return safely." 

We boarded the train" and were soon on our long tour, 
accompanied by our friend D. G. Musselman, as far as his 
home in Chicago, 111. We stopped with him a short time, 
visiting some places of interest, among which was the Dea- 
coness' Home in charge of Bro. J, Sprunger,? and the Men- 
nonite Mission in charge of Bro. S. F. Cofi'man of Elkhart, 
Indiana. 



26 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

Leaving the city we stopped at several points in the 
West, including Salt Lake City, Utah, the great Mormon 
stronghold, where many sights are to be seen. The Temple 
and Tabernacle are in themselves wonders. The inhabitants 
appear very clever and sociable, and claim that polygamy 
has been abandoned. We also visited the tomb of Brigham 
Young, the celebrated Mormon prophet. 

Traveling from there to the western coast we passed 
through mountains, tunnels, deserts, etc., that must indeed 
convince any one that this is a wonderful country, with its 
prairies and mountains, rivers and lakes, gas and coal, 
silver and gold, and in fact everything that is essential 
in making this a magnificent country and people. 

Traveling across the Great American Desert was 
a very unpleasant part of our journey, on account of the 
sand and dust which found its way into the coach, though 
all the windows were closed. Going through California 
much is to be seen in the way of vineyards and fruit orchards 
of all kinds, until you reach the coast, where San Francisco, 
the great western shipping point of this country, is situated. 
It is amazing to see the immense warehouses, and the long 
trains and the large ships that come and go, loaded to their 
utmost capacity. 

San Francisco is a great city. Although located thou- 
sands of miles from our eastern cities, yet it is appar- 
ently very similar to them. We spent some time at this 
place. Many religious meetings of all kinds were car- 
ried on here, yet we found many degraded places and 
a great deal of sin existing. 

Chinatown is quite a sight, and all who visit San Fran- 
cisco should go through Chinatown, accompanied by a guide. 
By the time a man becomes thoroughly interested, he almost 
forgets that he is yet so near home and in his own 



LEAVING HOME. 27 

country; for everything is so very different from the other 
parts of the city. The docks, where the great ocean steamers 
are anchored, are very interesting. We found the ship 
Oceanica, of the Occidental & Oriental Line, at the dock, 
discharging her cargo and reloading for Japan and China. 

On the 25th of September, 1894, passengers for the 
steamer began to arrive from all parts of our country. The 
weather was fine, and it was a time not soon to be forgotten. 
We soon met a number of passengers, some of whom were 
missionaries starting for the "Land of the Rising Sun" and 
the Orient. Among them, also, were a number that were 
making about the same kind of tour we had started to make. 
With many of them we formed acquaintances which, we 
trust, will never be forgotten. Just before the time for 
leaving, the crowd of people, — passengers and their friends 
who had accompanied them to see them off, — was an impress- 
ive sight. When the time came for sailing, the "good byes," 
the weeping, the cheering, and waving of handkerchiefs, 
was very affecting. 

A brass band was on board and dispensed music, while 
the grand, ponderous ship swung around in the bay and 
began to move toward the Golden Gate. While listening 
to the solemn strains of a farewell hymn, grief and joy 
seemed to commingle. We heard a lady make the remark: 
"I wish that band would stop playing; it makes me feel 
so bad." As the Golden Gate hove in sight and the forts 
had been passed, a steam launch came up along-side the 
large steamer and took the band back to the citv. 



CHAPTER IV. 

Out on the Deep. 

SHIP ROLLS — SEASICKNESS — MISSIONARIES — TOURISTS — THE SHIP 
LIKE A COUNTRY TOWN— FARM YARD— HONOLULU— QUEEN'S 
PALACE — PRODUCTIONS — WATER MELONS — LEPROSY — 
LEPER DOCTOR— PART FOREVER— DOCTORS AS MIS- 
SIONARIES—NATIVES—OUT ON THE DEEP- 
SEA ROUGH — WAVES MOUNTAIN HIGH- 
CROSSING THE MERIDIAN— TOR- 
PEDO LINES-TURTLE SOUP- 
NATIVE BOATS. 

OON the ship was out on the deep, and began 
to have considerable motion and to rock and 
pitch so that the passengers soon felt the 
effects of it. We had a well-furnished room 

with four bunks. By the time we were fairly out and 

under way, night set in. 

September 26th. — Had a good night's rest. The weather 

was fair but the sea rather rough; accommodations and meals 

were good, but we had no appetite, as by this time nearly 

all were seasick, the writer among the rest. Our Chinese 

steward was very good to us and did all he could to make 

us comfortable. 

September 27th. — The sea was rough, and as a result, 

seasickness was in order. September 28th. — Ship rolling; 

passengers kept bunks; very sick, and without appetite. 

September 29th. — Pleasant day, sun shone clearly and the 




OUT ON THE DEEP. 



29 



sea was more calm. Some passengers on deck. Seasickness 
about over and appetite returning. September 30th. — A 
beautiful morning and all on deck. 

There are about fifteen or more passengers on board who 
are making the tour around the world, and quite a number 
of missionaries that are going into foreign fields, which 
makes a very pleasant company. O, what a world to move 
out in, where we can meet and associate with people of so 




many different nationalities until our hearts swell with joy, 
sympathy and affection for each other! 

The vessel seemed to carry a little of nearly everything, 
and reminded one of a little country town. Cattle, sheep, 
turkeys, geese, ducks, and chickens were carried along, 
as well as all kinds of vegetables, all for the accommodation 
and benefit of the passengers. For breakfast we had beef 
steak, fresh fish, eggs, pork and a variety of other eatables. 

O, the wonders of God, in the night, upon the sea! 
In the evening the passengers on the upper deck joined 



30 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 

in singing, "Nearer my God to Thee." To us it was indeed 
grand, in the darkness, on the sea, while the waters were 
raging and the billows rolling, with the stars shining upon 
us in their beauty, to sing of Him who made and controls 
the mighty deep. We felt to clap our hands with the 
waters, and wished that some of our many friends could 
participate with us on such an occasion. How they would 
have enjoyed it! 

Sunday, October 1st. — Services were held on board 
the ship, conducted by Prof. Clark, one of our tourists 
from Rockford, III., U. S. A. October 2d. — A pleasant 
morning. We passed within sight of Molokai Island to which 
the lepers from the Sandwich Islands are banished. 

We arrived at Honolulu on the specified time. This 
is the main city and sea port of the Sandwich Islands, which 
are eight in number. It is also the seat of government 
and location of the King's palace where the Queen resides. 
Many soldiers were seen and a warlike spirit was manifested 
on account of the political troubles on the island. These is- 
lands are sometimes called the "Paradise of the World." 

The natives have a very dark color and do not appear 
to be much civilized. The islands have large sugar planta- 
tions, and the tropical fruits, such as pineapples, bananas, 
cocoanuts, etc., grow quite abundantly. Tea, rice and 
coffee are also raised. Their money is silver, and is 
equal in value with United States money. We took a walk 
into the city in the evening, and on hearing some singing 
found there was a mission meeting going on which we 
attended. The congregation consisted of a wonderfully 
mixed people. The meeting was conducted by an American 
and from what we could learn and comprehend, the workers 
seemed to be active and to understand each other in their 
different languages. 



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MOLOKAI ISLAIsTD.— LEPEOSY. 33 

There are many Japanese and Chinese in this country. 
Many of the women carry their babies on their backs, while 
others with their children lie around on the sidewalks during 
the heat of the day, very improperly clad, according to 
our way of thinking. We also noticed that while eating 
watermelons in the grocery store, they dropped all the seeds 
and shells upon the floor, causing a terrible muss, and yet 
they considered it to be quite proper. Many poor people 
and cripples are to be seen. Leprosy prevails to a consider- 
able extent, but all such, as fast as they are pronounced 
incurable, are banished to Molokai Island, where they must 
remain until death releases them. A short time previous 
there were twelve lepers, mostly young people, taken from 
Honolulu to the island. Parents and children, husbands 
and wives, were parted forever. Our friend, Mr. Rudolf 
Paweck, was an eye witness, and says, "It was a very sad 
sight to behold. While their friends wept, those condemned 
did not appear to mind it. This condition of mind is 
brought on by the disease." The government supports them, 
it is said. 

We were told that a certain physician living on 
one of the healthy islands, was noticed, for a long time, 
to be wearing gloves. One day he came to the public 
authorities, and pulling off his glove, showed a small spot 
of leprosy on his hand, saying, "You see, I am doomed 
to die. I might hide this for a good while and keep off 
the Isle of lepers, but, as I am a physician, I choose to go 
now and be of some service to those who are further along 
in the disease. It would be selfish for me to stay here amid 
luxurious surroundings when I might soothe and help the 
wretched." He bade farewell to family and friends. The 
parting was agonizing, as they well knew that they could 
never see each other's face again. He was transported to 



34 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 

the Isle of lepers and worked among the sick until prostrated 
for his own death, which finally came. That was sacrifice, 
radiant and magnificent, surpassed by none, save that of 
Him who Himself came from the health of heaven to the 
leprous isle of this earth, that He might heal our wounds, 
weep over our grief, die our deaths, and turn this isle of 
a leprous world into one great, blooming paradise of God. 
The great mission work is carried on in different ways, 
and many claim that schools, where the children are brought 
and kept, are the most successful means. Missionary phy- 
sicians find their way to them to help in case of need, giving 
relief and aid with good Christian advice and instruction. 
Dispensaries and infirmaries arc to bo found everywhere, 
under the control of the best doctors, some of them poorly 
paid, and others not paid at all. In one dispensary, within a 
year, one hundred and fifty thousand prescriptions were 
issued. The doctors, in many countries, do more missionary 
work, without charge, than all the others combined. May 
God bless the good mi-ssionary doctor. 

Octobers. — The ship just called at Honolulu, making 
a short stop of twenty-four hours. As the time came to 
leave, many Japanese and Chinese came on board. The 
gentleman above referred to, Mr. Rudolf Pavveck, whom 
we found to be a friend, became our room-mate. Wc parted 
for the last time at Joppa, Turkey. Many people were at 
the port when the ship was about to leave. Natives came 
with their strings of flowers and bouquets to sell to the pass- 
engers, while the diving boys were in the water begging 
the passengers to throw money in that they might dive and 
get it. The twenty-four hours were spent by the passengers 
in viewing the city and surrounding country, but now they 
had all returned, and soon the ship weighed anchor and set 
sail for Yokohama, Japan. 



FROM HONOLULU TO YOKOHAMA. 37 

October 5. — Sea rough, and ship rocking, and at times 
almost lying on its side. Many are seasick, but we have 
not yet felt the effects very much. 

October 6. — Sea very rough and winds high, affording 
wonderful sights. Waves, mountain high, striking each 
other and casting forth foam, looking like snow and ice 
mountains, were to be seen. 

Sunday, October 7. — Ship rolling from one side to the 
other, keeping all the passengers in a continual swing. At 
10 o'clock, P. M., the ship crossed the meridian, where 
one day is dropped. By traveling around the world, ■ east- 
ward, one day is gained, and as the meridian is crossed 
going westward the day is dropped; so we all retired on 
Sunday evening and awoke and arose on Tuesday morning, 
and yet we had slept but nine hours. The evening was 
spent in singing. 

October 11. — The ship made good time, 319 miles in the 
last twenty-four hours. I carried a recommendation from a 
Chicago friend to a mission worker in China, and fortunately 
happened to meet the gentleman in charge of that work, 
on board the ship. We also met, among many others, the 
Rev. and Mrs. N. S. Hopkins and Dr. and Mrs. Garwood, 
the latter of Champaign, 111., with whom we formed very 
acceptable acquaintances. We spent many pleasant hours 
together, both on the ship and in Japan, Egypt and Jeru- 
salem, where we met for the last time. 

October 15. — Arrived within about fifteen miles of 
Yokohama at 8, P. M., where we anchored and waited for 
the morning, as no ship is allowed to enter after a certain 
hour in the evening, on account of the torpedo lines and war 
trouble. A splendid supper was served, and among other 
things we had turtle soup, which was quite a rare dish for 
many of us. It seemed like a wedding feast, thanks 



38 



ABOUND THE GLOBE. 



to the generosity of the steam ship company. The next 
morning the ship drew near the port, and small boats 
came in large numbers to convey the poorer class to shore, 
while the other passengers were taken ashore by the steam 
launch. It was rainy and many of the natives were nearly 
naked, and so exposed to the rain and cold that they looked 
pitiful. We all found good quarters at the different hotels, 
and, for one, we felt grateful to God for our safe and 
successful voyage. 




JAPANESE CONVEYANCE. 



(Original I'hoto. 




CHAPTER V. 

Yokohama and Kamakura. 
main sea port — jinkikishas— kamakura — gods of war— ual- 

BUTSU — DIMENSIONS OF THIS IDOL — GODDESS OF MERCY — 

"WHERE IS YOUR GOD?"— "I SEE IT" — "LEARN TO 

KNOW THYSELF." 

APAN is a nice country with its tidy buildings. 
Yokohama is the place where most visitors 
first touch Japanese soil. It is the largest of 
the treaty ports and practically the port of 
Tokio, the seat of government. It is a matter of great inter- 
est to see the natives in their singular costumes. They are 
very polite in offering their services with their jinrikishas, 
two wheeled vehicles drawn by coolies, in which they will 
take you on short notice to any desired point. 

The distance from Yokohama to Kamakura is about 
twenty-two miles, and is reached partly by train and then by 
coolies and their jinrikishas. The writer made this trip in 
company with several others and it was his first experience 
with the jinrikishas. The roads were miserable and at first 
it seemed like cruelty to have the natives draw us through 
the muddy streets, but we afterwards learned that it is con- 
sidered by them a very honorable means of obtaining a 
livelihood. The roads were indeed so poor that at times all 
of us, five in number, were compelled to get out and walk. 
The chief attractions at Kamakura are the Temple of Hachi- 
man, the Daibutsu or "Colossal bronze Buddha" and the 
great image of the goddess Kwannon. 



40 



AROUND THE GLOBE. 



The Temple of Hachiman contains the Gods of War, 
which are two in number. These idols are situated on either 
side of the main entrance to the temple, and present a fright- 
ful appearance. We noticed that they were spotted all over, 
and looked very filthy, as though fowls had been roosting 
over them. We were informed by our dragoman that this 
was on account of the war at that time being carried on with 
China. The Japanese, before a'oins: to war, come here to 











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jAi-AJNii-Sii 'liiMjr'I.K. {Original Photo.) 

offer prayers to these idols. They write their prayers on 
paper, and then, after chewing them into a cud, throw them 
at the idol, aiming to make them stick, in which case they 
take it for granted that their God of War will answer their 
prayers. It reminds one of the mischievous school boy of 
our 3'outhful days, chewing his paper wads and throwing 
them against the ceiling. We learned that the Japanese are 
highly delighted with their god, as the supposed means of 
their success in the war with China. 



JAPAN.— DAIBUTSU. 



41 



The great Daibutsu or Great Buddha stands out promi- 
nently among Japanese works of art. Nothing else gives 
such an impression of majesty or so, truly symbolizes the 



, ^M«8«^*N«*''A*aii'W^'' v..** . 





DAIBUTSU. 



(Original Photo.) 



central idea of Buddhism— the intellectual calm which comes 
of perfected knowledge and the subjugation of all passions. 
But to be fully appreciated, the Daibutsu must be visited 
many times, says Murry's Guide Book. 



Height, 


49 ft. 


7 in. 


Circumference, - - 


97 ft. 


2 in. 


Length of face, - - 


8 ft. 


5 in. 


Width from ear to ear, 


17 ft. 


9 in. 


Bound white boss on 






forehead, - - - 


1ft. 


3 in. 


Length of eye, - - - 


3 ft. 


11 in. 


Length of eyebrows. 


4 ft. 


2 in. 


Length of ear, - - 


6 ft. 


6 in. 


Length of nose, - - 


3 ft. 


9 in. 


Width of mouth, - - 


3 ft. 


2 in. 



42 AEOUI^^D THE GLOBE. 

DIMENSIONS OF DAIBUTSU. 

Height of bump of 

wisdom, - - - - 9 in. 

Diameter of bump of 

wisdom, - - - - 2 ft. 4 in. 
Curls, (of which there 

are 830,) height, - 9 in. 

Diameter, - - - - l ft. 
Length from knee to 

knee, - - - - - 35 ft. 8 in. 
Circumference of the 

thumb, - - - - 3 ft. 

The eyes are of pure gold and the silver balls weigh 
30 lbs. Avoir. The image is formed of sheets of bronze 
casts, brazed together and finished on the outside with the 
chisel. The hollow interior of the image contains a small 
shrine, and a ladder leads up into the head. The writer 
ascended into the head of the image on this ladder and can 
truly say, the idols made by the hands of men have eyes, but 
they see not; they have ears, but they hear not; they have 
hands, but they cannot reach out and help the subjects who 
trust in them. Many come and go but none are benefited 
and yet it seems the natives remain zealous and very much in 
earnest in their mode of worship. We prayed with the dying 
missionary, who wore his life away in the interest of the 
natives in that country. His last prayer, as seen on his 
tombstone, was "God save the Japanese." 

In the Temple of Kwannon stands the great image of the 
Goddess of Mercy, for which this temple is celebrated. It 
stands behind folding doors, which a small fee, to the attend- 
ing priest, will suffice to open. The priest will first rap at 
the doors, pretending to awake the idol, and then the doors 
are opened ; but the figure can only be indistinctly seen by 
the dim light of a few candles. It is a large image, gilded 




(Taken from Photo.) 



TURKISH FESTAL DAY. 



Take Thou my hand and lead me — 

Choose Thou my way. 
Not as I will, O Father, teach me to say. 
What though the storms may gather. 

Thou knowest best; 
Safe in Thy keeping, Father, wordd I rest. 



i 



i 



A TEMPLE AT KYOTO. 45 

over, and is thirty feet and five inches high. Oh, how sad to 
think that these people are so ignorant of the real God. 

An educated Japanese said to me, " I would like your 
religion, but I can't understand your God nor where He is." 
We had a long talk with him on the subject, r; explaining how 
a will or a testament made by a father previous to his death, 
is after his death read and brought into execution. We asked 
him " Who is speaking when the will is read." He said at 
once, " The father of the family," "So it is with God and 
His word," said I. "It is God speaking to us through His 
word or testament, as the deceased father, and we are to 
become obedient to Him." He then said, " I see it, I see it," 
and further said, "I will become a Christian. Oh, may the 
Lord lead many of those active young men to Himself through 
the Christian influence and efforts put forth by the so-called 
Christian world. 

There are many sights that are very impressive. Men 
and women bow and worship, and bring their tithes and 
throw them into their cash box, while others are reading and 
watching the visitors very closely. We noticed a young 
woman walking around in one of the temples and clapping 
her hands as though she was very happy. 

On entering one of the temples at Kyoto, into which 
you are admitted by paying a small fee, a curtain is lifted 
and you stand in front of a large mirror, where you see no 
one but yourself and the inscription on the mirror, "Man, 
learn to know thyself." O, what a lesson to be learned from 
that inscription. Instead of decorating this body and culti- 
vating the pride of the heart, and the carnal inclinations of 
the natural man, " Learn to know thyself.'''' 



CHAPTER VI. 

TOKIO. 

A missionary's statement — THE WAR SPIRIT — SHAVEN EYEBROWS 
AND BLACKENED TEETH — VISITS THROUGH TOKIO— JAPANESE 
DINNER WITH CHOPSTICKS — WOMEN BOUGHT AND SOLD — 
LEGALIZED PROSTITUTION — BATH ROOMS — CRE- 
MATORY — PRODUCTS — FUJIYAMA MANNER OF 
CONSTRUCTING BUILDINGS— CEMETER- 
IES — IDOLS— WOMEN AS SLAVES. 

T is stated by certain missionaries that their 
work is making slow progress, because a na- 
tional feeling has grown up against it. 
The natives rather feel as though they 
could do their own mission work, and carry it on 
without foreign help; but all the missionaries are convinced 
that it would soon drift back into Buddhism. While the 
war with China was raging and a great war spirit was being 
shown by all the natives, the attendance at the missions, on 
an average, was very small. In a large meeting which the 
writer attended, the natives were holding a religious 
service in their own language, and indeed they manifested 
quite an earnestness, judging from their singing. 

All Japanese leave their sandals at the door before they 
enter a place of worship, and before entering their homes. 
It is considered very impolite to step on their matresses 
with shoes on the feet. 




JAPAN.— CUSTOMS IN TOKIO. 



47 



It was noticed that some of the women had their teeth 
blackened and eyebrows shaven. We were informed that 
these were married women, and that they do this to avoid the 
attraction of men. The single women do not have this 
distinction. 

In company with Rev. Paul D. Berger of the American 
Presbyterian Mission, we took a trip to Tokio, the capital, 
and called at different missions, among others that of the 
Evangelical Association of America, where we found some 




JAPANESE DINNER. 



(Original Photo.) 
EATING MACARONI. 



dear brethren, and indeed it seemed to me like home. Rev. 
G. E. Dienst is a dear Christian worker, and we believe he, 
with his dear wife and children, has the work at heart. 
In a later call we spent some time with them and were 
permitted to attend service with them in their church, 
although we could not imderstand anything in their lan- 
guage. We were also happy to meet with Rev. T. W. Foe- 
geline, the Presiding Elder of that district. Our prayer is 
that God may bless them in their labors, as they have strong 



48 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

opposition to contend with, and besides this, they have left 
many friends in their native country and denied themselves 
the luxury of a home foi* the sake of Christ and the salvation 
of the poor heathen. We were permitted to spend one day 
with Rev. Dienst in and about the city, visiting points of 
interest. 

Indeed the city is quite different from those in our 
country. There are many little shops and their keepers are 
very polite, as they sit on their mattresses and invite 
strangers in. We stopped together at a Japanese inn, but 
the accommodations were not fully as satisfactory to us as 
those of our American hotels. They have neither chairs nor 
tables, but sit on mattresses. We anxiously waited for 
something to eat. Rev. Dienst called again and again for our 
meal which we finally received. We had nothing but chop- 
sticks with which to eat, and as we were not accustomed to 
their use, we had considerable trouble in eating. The best 
we could do was to lick our chopsticks. The natives at last 
took pity on us and brought us spoons with which to eat 
eggs. They did all in their power to make the meal pleasant 
and agreeable. 

We visited the crematory where nineteen bodies were 
being cremated, and although it was horrible to look upon, 
yet it was much better than the mode we afterward saw 
employed in India. 

The worst feature of Japanese social life is the business 
of houses of ill fame and prostitution, licensed and protected 
by the government. Certain portions of the city are set 
apart for this purpose. We were informed that 2,500 girls 
in one part of the city are licensed prostitutes, and that 
there are a number of such designated localities in the city. 

Girls are sold by their parents, and men buy them and 
speculate on them, having places where they exhibit them 



I 




'tt^meii'W'mmm . 





JAPA^.— MIYANOSHITA. 



51 



by the hundreds, as our merchants exhibit goods in their 
display windows. They are finely dressed and made to 
appear just as attractive as possible; then their owners go 
out on the streets and solicit for them. O, what a sad 
condition of affairs! We were informed that it is not con- 
sidered so low and immoral by them as it is by us in America, 
and the fact that we put a higher estimate on female virtue, 
is, without doubt, due to the influence of Christianity. 








^^■H 5:i! = ' 









^-ti'^ 



1^ ""- -/^v M''l^i<^^#-^''i<^gB 



(Original Photo.) 
MIYANOSHITA, HOT SPRINGS AND BATH HOUSES. 

Noticing a bath room as we passed along the streets 
in company with our guide and several Americans, we saw 
that the front of it was open to such an extent that all who 
traveled the streets could see that men and women were 
together in the same bath room. There were about ten or 
fifteen of both sexes in the room at the same time in a state 



52 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

of nudity, engaged in bathing and rubbing each other down. 
We were informed that such was the custom in that country 
and no one thinks evil of it. In approaching some of the 
hotels, especially in Miyanoshita, which is a very prominent 
place in Japan, women come and, for a small fee, offer to 
shampoo you, which consists of stripping the clothes from 
the bodies of their subjects, washing and rubbing them, and 




JAPANESE JINRIKISHA AND TEA HOUSE. {Original Photo.) 

applying friction to the extremities. This is considered 
proper, and is attended with no evil or impure thoughts or 
motives. Hence it requires presence of mind, purpose of 
heart and combined firmness to resist the evils with which 
one comes in contact. Japanese may have as many wives as 
they can support. These they can purchase for about 100 
to 200 yen each, we were informed. 

As the war was raging, many military movements could 
be observed. Cavalry, infantry and artillery, together with 



JAPAN.— ITS PRODUCTS. 



53 



provision trains, were seen moving toward the battle fields. 
The country was in a general stir, and the natives were 
anxious to learn with which side the strangers were sym- 
pathizing. Children were parading the streets and shouting, 
while many pictures were exhibited giving illustrations and 
diagrams of battle fields. Many looked upon strangers with 
suspicion. 






JAPANESE MODE OF GREETING. 



(Original Photo.) 



The Japanese are very polite and sociable in their com- 
munication with each other. When they meet they do not 
shake hands as we do, but bow very low two or three times, 
and in a most graceful manner, as shown in the illustration. 

The country in general is rather mountainous, but in 
the valleys and on the plains the land is very productive. 
The principal products are tea, rice, wheat, buckwheat 



54 



AROUND THE GLOBE. 



and some Indian corn, while vegetables grow in abundance. 
There are various kinds of fruit in Japan, but they are 
entirely of a different quality from either ours or those of 
the tropics. Women, as well as men, are seen out in the 
fields gathering rice, which is sometimes tied in tree-tops 
in order to have it out of the reach of water, that it may be- 
come dry and cured. 




TEA PLANTATION. (Taken from Photo.) 

Men and women carry almost everything on their heads 
in baskets. Even dirt and stone are carried in this way. 
It is stated that while their railroad was being constructed, 
the company introduced the wheelbarrow; but the natives 
would not use it, until urged upon; even then one would take 
hold of the handles while another took hold of the wheel, 
and in this way they carried the dirt out on the dump. 
Nothing is seen of our manner of cultivating the soil. The 
ground is mostly grubbed and spaded. 



JAPAN.— FUJIYAMA. 



55 



From almost any point on the island, by looking up, 
one will be able to see Fujiyama, the great goddess of Japan. 
The peak is 12,365 feet above the sea level, and is covered 
with snow during the entire year. Some distance from 
Fujiyama are other smaller peaks, one of which has a smoky 
appearance, caused by the numerous hot springs. Some of 
these peaks are covered with grass, others with small timber, 
and a few with brush, all plainly visible to the eye in going 





jO/ lyi/uil I'holu.) 
JAPANESE DRAY. — FUJIYAMA IN THE DISTANCE. 

from Miyanoshita toward Fuji. It being the fall of the year, 
the leaves were changing their color, and it was indeed 
a beautiful sight. Japan is claimed by many to be the most 
scenic and wonderfully picturesque country in the world. 
Many things there are too mysterious for man to understand. 
The country and people are so different from our own. 
Different methods are employed in doing their work. In 



56 



AEOUIsTD THE GLOBE. 



building houses, they frequently begin at the roof and then 
build downward. Noticing a two-story building in course 
of erection, we saw that the workmen first put up a scaffold, 
upon which they built the upper floors and the roof. That 
being completed, they began to work on the foundation. 
The native carpenters draw the plane and saw toward them; 
yet they are fine mechanics and their work is very nicely 
done when completed. 




\ Original Photo.) 
STREET SCENE, SHOWING ENGLISH CHURCH, YOKOHAMA. 



Their cemeteries present, to Americans, an unusual 
appearance, the graves being so close together. 'J he Japan- 
ese bury their dead in an upright posture, in a box about 
two feet square and four feet long. Sometimes the poorer 
classes are buried in barrels. In the European and American 
cemeteries in Japan it is different. Monuments can be seen 



JAPANESE IDOLS. 



57 



to mark the resting places of missionaries, consuls and sea- 
men, with inscriptions stating the nationality of the de- 
ceased. Whenever you look into the cemeteries you may 
see that which is likely to move the heart with sympathy. 
How little do 



our own Amer- 
ean people ap- 
preciate the 
blessings of liv- 
ing in such an 
enlightened 
Christian coun- 
try where they 
have the advan- 
tages of early 
instructions; 
and, best of all, 
where the true 
and living God 
is acknowledged 
as the only God 
to be worshiped. 
Along the way 
and at cross- 
roads many little 
images are seen 
cut in stone and 
other material, 
many of them being no larger than a common-sized cat, in- 
cluding various kinds of animals, such as foxes, cattle and 
dogs. Instead of looking to such things made by the hands 




{Original I'hoto.) 



JAPANESE IDOL. 



58 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 

of men, as they do, we look up to Him who smiles upon us, 
O, blessed thought! How true we should be to Him and 
how we should love and obey Him as His children. O, how 
quickly these people should flee to Him! 

This country is yet far from being brought to God. 
There are many temples, and the natives are very loyal to 
their gods and their mode of worship. This is a country 
that is visited by thousands of people from all parts of the 
world every year. The writer was able to learn many things 
by coming in contact with a number of these visitors. 

The natives work hard. Poor women, some of them 
mothers, are out on the streets drawing carts so heavily 
loaded that we would consider it impossible for the women 
to move them. Some are half naked and are so poor that 
they follow strangers a long distance for the purpose of 
begging. Many poor, blind women are on the streets, sing- 
ing their songs to attract attention, and offering their services 
in any way by which they may earn a little money. 

Some women carry their little children on their backs, and 
in many cases they are like slaves, being compelled to do the 
hardest kind of work, such as coaling the large ocean 
steamers; but with all this they seem to be contented. How 
grateful we should feel in our own grand country! Our 
young people especially should be thankful for the privileges 
and blessings which they enjoy. 

Many European people are living in Japan. The 
Clariden Hotel is a mission home where all ministers and 
missionaries are granted special rates of two yen per day^ 



I 




{Urtyi./iuJ. I'liulij.j 
RUINS OF ST. JOHN'S CHURCH, EPHESUS. 



"We are living, we are dwelling, 

In a grand, and awful time; 
In an age on ages telling — 

To be living is sublime. 
Hark! the waking up of nations, 

Gog and Magog to the fray; 
Hark ! what soundeth ? Is creation 

Groaning for her latter day ?" 




CHAPTER YII. 

Kobe, Nagasaki and Hong Kong. 

widowed mother and child— kobe— inland sea— nagasaki- 
CITY OF THE DEAD — CHILD TAKEN FROM ITS MOTHER- 
WAR VESSELS — SERVICES ON BOARD SHIP — 
HONG KONG — SEAMEN'S MISSION — 
STREET SIGHTS. 

N Saturday, November 10th, we started by ship 
for Kobe and Nagasaki, boarding the ship An- 
cona. Peninsular & Oriental line. We found 
W^y^^^^"^ good quarters for the voyage. My attention 
was soon attracted to a woman who came aboard dressed in 
mourning, accompanied by a child, apparently about six 
years of age. Both the lady and child were pleasant and 
talkative, and we soon learned that the father, mother and 
child had come from India to Japan for a change of climate 
and for the father's health. While on the way the father, 
Mr. F. A. Nalor (an English officer in India), took a severe 
cold, which resulted in a more serious attack in Yokohama, 
from the effects of which he afterwards died, leaving the 
mother and child to return alone to their former home. The 
little girl took a fancy to the writer and asked her mother, 
" May I give Mr. Lambert a kiss? I have no pa to kiss any- 
more." The mother said, "O my child, don't talk so." The 
scene was touchino-. As we were on the same vessel for a 



62 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

long distance, Mrs. Nalor repeatedly related to us her sad 
experience in Japan, which deeply aroused our sympathy for 
herself and child. 

We arrived at Kobe, where we again met some of those 
with whom we had crossed the Pacific, and spent some time 
in visiting the mountains and temples along the seacoast. 

Leaving Kobe we sailed through the Inland Sea, with 
its magnificent scenery, small islands and narrow straits, 
guided all along the way by its numerous light-houses. In 
the night it reminded us of sailing over the sea of time, and 
the dangers to which all are exposed, but, as the poet says, 
" There are lights along the shore." The great flash light is 
Jesus the Savior of the world, who lights the way and keeps 
us in the proper course, thus preventing ship-wreck. 

Upon arrival at Nagasaki, November 16th, we found that 
it was a grand place. The bay is surrounded with beautiful 
mountain scenery. Many cemeteries are seen on all sides, 
giving it the appearance of a city of the dead. Here many 
Christians were massacred. Here again women were en- 
gaged in coaling the ships. 

Before leaving Nagasaki we saw a small party on deck, 
consisting of a Chinaman, his Japanese wife and child, and 
his wife's mother. When the signal was given for all the 
passengers to get aboard, and for all those who were not 
passengers to go ashore, the Chinaman took charge of the 
child, while the two women, weeping, went on shore. We 
were afterwards informed that the Chinaman had, besides his 
Japanese wife in Nagasaki, a wife and family in Hong Kong, 
China, where he was engaged in business. It was his cus- 
tom to take the children of his Japanese wife to his Chinese 
family in Hong Kong. What would our American mothers 



SERVICES ON SHIPBOARD. 



63 



think of such treatment? The child, which was about eigh- 
teen months old, caused the father much trouble, day and 
night, during the voyage, although it was given the most 
watchful attention. We sighted several large war vessels 
, _ during this voy- 



age, looking 
after the inter- 
ests of their re- 
spective govern- 
ments. 

In the even- 
ing card-playing 
was introduced 
in which we 





1^!^^' 



were requested 
to take part but 
refuse d, and 
soon a religious 
service was in 
progress, con- 
sisting of talk- 
ing and singing. 
Sunday, No- 
vember 19. — A 
ij; pleasant day. 
.orUJu^al Fkoto.) ^e wcre rc- 

JAPANESE WORSHIP. q U C S t C d t O 

preach to the passengers and consented. Soon the dining 
room was prepared, and a pulpit, with the English flag 
covering it, was arranged. The Lord assisted us in recom- 
mending Him as the chief of all, and we had a good time. 



64 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 

Upon arriving at Hong Kong, we spent some time in 
visiting. The war was raging and there was no encourage- 
ment to go north or into the interior. Troops were expected 
and therefore not much time was spent at tliis point. 

Hong Kong is an English colony. Many Europeans are 
doing business here. There are also many Chinamen here, 
but since the pestilence of 1894, some of the Chinese houses 
are not occupied, and even a few of the streets are closed. In 
the evening a steam launch went from one ship to another to 
take passengers to the Seamen's Mission, free of cost. A 
number of us availed ourselves of this privilege. It was not 
strictly religious, rather more of the nature of a concert, and 
we considered it rather degrading. It was a Christian mis- 
sion simply in name and not in reality. 

Throughout the city, women were seen sitting on the sides 
of the streets, sewing, knitting and washing. In fact all kinds 
of work is done on the streets. Tinners, blacksmiths, and 
shoemakers were seen sitting along the walks, working at 
their trades. 

Many of the women can scarcely walk, their feet being 
cramped and no larger than those of a child; fortunately, 
however, the law at present prohibits deforming the feet as 
of old, yet it requires labor and time to reform them from 
their ancient customs. 

We attended a heathen service, where the offering to the 
idol consisted of a pig, weighing eighty or a hundred pounds, 
and two fowls. These were roasted and placed in a standing 
position, with their mouths wide open toward a burning 
light. Near them were several dishes of eatables. One of 
the priests was engaged in reading and another in burning 



CIIIKA.-HOKG KOKG. 



65 



incense, the two turning alternately to the idol and the offer- 
ings. Two attendants played small timbrels while another 
blew a small fife. 

Looking into their meat markets as we passed along the 
streets, it was noticed that the carcasses of animals were 
roasted whole, and that the meat, when sold to customers, 
was ready to be eaten. 

At Hong Kong all passengers for Singapore and Co- 
lombo were transferred to another ship. 




LIGI^T nOUSE. 




CHAPTER VIII. 

Singapore and Colombo. 

SERVICES ON BOARD SHIP— SINGAPORE — SEA SHELLS — ALL KINDS 

OF WORK DONE ON THE STREETS — CHATS WITH PEOPLE 

OF DIFFERENT NATIONALITIES — POOR MEALS — 

MISSION SERVICE — PENANG — ISLAND OF 

SUMATRA — COLOMBO. 

E left for Singapore on the 23d of November. 
Sunday, November 25. — It was becoming very 
warm, as we were going southward. Services 
were held on board in the forenoon, and also 
in the evening. By request of the crew, we spoke to them 
in the evening and the time was spent quite pleasantly. A 
missionary lady also took part in the services. It is hoped 
some good impressions were made. 

We arrived at Singapore November 27th and found a 
good home for $1.00 per day. This is a very warm country, 
only 80 miles from the equator. Nearly all here are dressed 
in white and have special hats to protect them from sun- 
stroke. The inhabitants represent about all nationalities. 
Many of the Indians are naked, with the exception of 
something about the loins. They seem to be very poor. The 
natives use the Japanese jinrikishas here. There are also 
many one-horse carriages used here, but the heaviest loads 
are drawn by bullocks. They look very much like our 



SINGAPORE.— STKEET SCENES. 



67 



Jersey cattle, with the exception ot the humps on their necks 
and their very straight horns. 

Many sea-shells of all kinds, shapes, sizes and colors are 
brought to this point by the natives, and offered for sale to 
strangers. It is almost impossible to walk along the side- 
walks because of the many who are working and transacting 
all kinds of business ; others carry loads of goods on their 
backs and we have even seen some carry hot stoves in this 




(Original Photo.) 
TWO SEATED JINRIKISHA SHOWING COOLIE WITH STRAW CAPE. 



manner, setting them down at different places and baking 
pan cakes to sell. Others heat their flat irons on the side- 
walks, and create a smoke which is very unpleasant. Time 
passes more quickly when one can meet with people of differ- 
ent nationalitiei, as is the case here, and have a chat with a 



68 



AEOUKD THE GLOBE. 



German, a Russian, an Irishman, a Scotchman, or an Eng- 
lishman. Many soldiers and warships were here. 

The meals in this country are not very appetizing to an 
American. The landlady asked us why we did not eat, and 
was told that we were not hungry ; but the fact was, the 
meals were not good enough to. make one hungry. To en- 
courage us she said, "I do my own cooking and it is very 
good." As a general thing Chinamen are the cooks. She said, 




{Taken Ji 



AN ORIENTAL BURDEN BEARER 



" Do you like macaroni soup? Macaroni soup is very good, 
just wait till dinner and you will sec. I will cook it myself." 
But during the time that the soup was being prepared, she 
was going in and out, attending to it so as to make it very 
good. She would come into the sitting room and sitting on 
the sofa in a half reclining position would call the dog to her, 
and, parting his hair, pick off the fleas, lice, nits, etc. , that 
were on his body, and throw them on the floor, and then was 



SINGAPOKE.— MISSION SEEVICES. 69 

off to the kitchen to see after the soup. Does the reader 
blame us for not eating macaroni soup under such circum- 
stances? Such is life in the Orient at many places, for 
indeed, this is not the only locality where such things occur. 

We visited here some of the missions, as well as the 
Methodist church, where we enjoyed a very good service. 
The minister had for his text Rom. 1:16, " I am not ashamed 
of the gospel of Christ," etc. He impressed upon his 
hearers the importance of not being ashamed of Jesus. 
Among other things he said. When we take each letter com- 
posing the name Jesus as the beginning of a word we make 
up the following sentence: "Just Exactly Suits Us Sinners;" 
as to how true this is, every Christian heart can respond. 

We also attended services at the cathedi-al on Sunday, 
and although it is an immense building, yet only twenty-four 
persons were present. There is much to be seen and heard, 
yet sin and degradation prevail the world over. Surely the 
world was lost in darkness and sin, but Jesus came to seek 
and to save all. O, blessed thought! 

December 12, The weather is very warm. We set sail 
for Colombo, Ceylon, on the steamer Ravanna. On board 
we met the American party, eight in number, under charge 
of Prof. Clark, with which we had at different times traveled. 
The ship's crew was a nice party, composed mostly of Eng- 
lish people. We came up the strait of Malacca, which gave 
us a splendid view of the country. The ship anchored for a 
short time at Penang which gave our party the opportunity 
of riding out several miles through the celebrated cocoanut 
and banana groves. Many other tropical fruits are grown 
here, and the profuse vegetation afforded us splendid sight- 
seeing. We noticed that notches had been cut by the natives 



70 



ABOUND THE GLOBE. 



on both sides of many of the trees to facilitate climbing them 
when gathering the fruit. 

Leaving Penang we passed through the strait between 
the Malay Peninsula and the island of Sumatra, where it is 
said war has been raging for about twenty years, more or 
less, between the Dutch and the natives. 

We were now sailing on the Indian Ocean. The sea was 
very calm and the weather warm. Nearly all tlie passengers 




(Unyi/ud Jt'IkjIu). 
BRISTOL HOTEL, COLOMBO, CEYLON. 

and crew were dressed in white clothing and large sun hats. 
We prepared our baggage to be forwarded, on the same ship, 
to Bombay, to await our arrival there, while we changed for 
Madras and Calcutta, India. 

We arrived at Colombo, Ceylon, on the 18th of Decem- 
ber. Here many large ocean steamers meet in the same 
way that trains meet in our large union depots. One arrived 
from London en route for China, while one was there from 



CEYLON.— COLOMBO. 



71 



China bound for London; one for Australia, and one to Aus- 
tralia; and one for Calcutta. Though thousands of miles to 
sail and in nearly all kinds of weather, these ships make their 
time as the schedule requires. A wonderful system of navi- 
gation is found on these long lines, and the greatest care and 
the best accommodations are given to passengers. Ceylon is 
noted for its cinnamon gardens. 

The streets of Colombo are full of natives, with bullock- 
carts loaded with various kinds of merchandise, anxious to 
sell their o-oods. 




A SCENE IN THE TROPICS. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Madras. 

TRANSFERRED TO THE KHEDIVE — SAILING ON BAY OF BENGAL — 
POPULATION OF MADRAS — SEAT OF GOVERNMENT — COMPARED 
WITH OTHER NATIONS — NINETY TO NINETY-FIVE PER CENT. 
POOR PEOPLE — WOMEN CARRYING BRICK AND MORTAR — 
EAR, NOSE, AND NECK JEWELS — LOW WAGES — BUILD- 
INGS — BUNGALS— HUTS— PENITENTIARY^ — AN 
AMERICAN IN PRISON— DANGERS OF OUR 
YOUNG PEOPLE. 

ADRAS, India, was our next point. The 
passeno;ers for this place were transferred to 
the "Khedive," while those bound for other 
points were taken to vessels sailing for the 
several ports they desired to visit. 

Our ship left Colombo for Madras and Calcutta on the 
21st of December. A number of missionaries were on board. 
We sailed north into the bay of Bengal and on the 24th of 
December arrived at Madras. 

Madras is the largest city in Southern India, is situated on 
the coast, and is the seat of government of the Madras 
Presidency. This territory contains 138,000 square miles and 
is thickly populated. The native states of Cochin and Trav- 
ancore occupy part of the south-western coast. The statistics 
show that Cochin has an area of 1,361 square miles, more 
than two-thirds of which is under cultivation, and contains 
a population of 600,728. The average population per square 




MADEAS.— DENSITY OF POPULATION. 



73 



mile is 441; but in some parts it has as many as 1,430 per 
square mile. The population consists of 429,324 Hindoos, 
136,361 Christians, 33,344 Mohammedans, and 1,249 Jews. 
Thus far the Christians comprise twenty-three per cent, of 
the whole population. 

The state of Travancore is the most important native 
state in the government of Madras. It has an area of 6,722 
square miles, about 4,000 square miles of which is cultivated, 




MADRAS HARBOR AND PIER. 



(Oi'iijinal I'/ioto.) 



and has a population of nearly two and a half millions, 
which gives an average of 357 to a square mile. There are 
some places where the population per square mile is as dense 
as 1,318, 1,170, and 1,135. More than one-fifth of the 
population consists of Christians. 

We Americans ought to be grateful to God for the 
country He has given us and for the blessings we enjoy. No 
wonder there are so many poor people (from ninety to 



74 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 

ninety-five per cent.) in Southern India, and that they are 
so zealous in soliciting alms. Many poor, aged and crippled 
people are seen along the streets, crying and begging for 
alms. Imagine in our state and country an average of 357 
or 4:4:1, or, as in some districts, 1,430 inhabitants per square 
mile; what would or could we do under such conditions? 
These statistics were taken from the official book called 
"Jubilee of the Queen Empress," and must, therefore, be 
accepted as correct. Some of our readers may say, " What 
is the population per square mile in the United States ? I 
will give a table showing the density of population of differ- 
ent countries, which will give us some idea of our noble 
country, a better than which there is none. 

India has from 357 to 441 per square mile. 
England has - - - 312 per square mile. 
Germany has - • 237 per square mile. 
Belgium has - - - 540 per square mile. 
U. S. including Alaska, 17 per square mile. 

This ought to encourage the fathers, mothers and chil- 
dren of this country, and make them loyal and patriotic, and 
above all, grateful and obedient to God. The United States is 
regarded by all the world as the grandest and greatest of all 
countries, and as a mighty nation. 

The streets are full of people and bullock-carts; natives 
are poorly clad; women do hard work, such as carrying brick 
and mortar up on high buildings, while others go about the 
streets with baskets on their heads and pick up the droppings 
of the bullocks, which are dried and used for fuel. The 
natives keep and raise their little calves and bullocks on their 
front porches. 

The women wear as much jewelry as they can afford, in 
their ears and noses and around their necks. Their ears are 



MADKAS.— CUSTOMS. 



75 



frequently torn by the rings coming in contact with some 
object while the owners are at work. The jewels are replaced 
by piercing new holes. Many of the native women carry 
the entire possessions of their families in jewels, and when 
a purchase is made, they pay the price of their purchase 
in jewelry. 

Many follow you and are anxious to do you service in 
order to earn a few annas. Even a kind look and word is 




MADRAS POST OFFICE. {Original Photo.) 

highly appreciated. The wages are very^low, and the best 
mechanics and leading contractors receive only from one 
rupee to one rupee and two or four annas per day. The 
common laborers are paid proportionately and there is not 
much work to be had even at these wages. 

BUILDINGS. 

The buildings are mostly of brick, and a few buildings, 
such as the High Court and Post Office, with flash lights in 



76 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 

the spires, make a very fine appearance. The churches are 
as fine as any, but they are without windows or glass, having 
in their place blind-doors, which are opened during services. 
They have large bungals in all the churches with which to 
fan the congregation during services, in very warm weather, 
the bimgal being operated by a coolie who sits on the out- 
side and pulls the rope which is attached to it. As a general 
thing churches and all buildings of any importance have a 
large plot of ground around them planted with trees and 
shrubs, with a large walk inclosing the whole premises. 
Many of the best private houses are the same, and are mostly 
one-story high, built of brick and plastered and often white- 
washed. Many of them have a front projection, with heavy 
round pillars underneath, which make a fine appearance. 
Then there are other buildings of a poorer class, down to 
the huts in which the natives live, in their part of town. The 
roofs are principally made of clay-tile, as in all the Orient, 
while others are thatched. 

THE PENITENTIARY. 

Rev. Shaw and myself made a visit to the penitentiary 
in which, at this time, were about 800 convicts. We were 
taken to the gallows, the whipping post, and the dark dun- 
geons, where a number of prisoners are kept. We were 
also shown the large tread mill, where many are put onto run 
the machinery. The officer that was with us referred us to 
an American that was among the convicts. Stepping up to 
him and giving him my hand I said, "Are you an American?" 
He answered, " Yes." I said, " What does this mean; you 
an American, so far from home and in such a place? " The 
young man, blushing, said, "When I was a boy I ran away 
from home and went to sea and finally landed in India. 1 



MADEAS.— AN AMERICAN IN PRISON. 79 

was unfortunate and became crippled. Afterwards I violated 
the laws and now I must pay the penalty." I asked him 
where he was from and he told me "Cincinnati, O." I asked, 
"Is your father yet alive?" He answered, "As far as I 
know, my father and mother are alive. My father is a man 
of good standing in that city." I also asked him if his par- 
ents knew that he was here, and he told me, " Not unless the 
American consul has informed them, but I think not." He 
showed sorrow and said, " O, if I had only stayed at home 1 
would not be in such a place." I expressed my sympathies 
for him and bade him good-bye. The officer then told me 
his name and also the charges against him. The name was 
Monbebars. There were two charges against him and he 
therefore had to remain two terms, one of six months, and 
the other of twelve mouths. He had already been there 
three months. O, what lessons the young men and women 
of this country should learn not to complain so soon of home, 
of father and mother, and imagine they know more than their 
parents. 

Many of our young folks have good privileges and fine 
educations, and yet they are not careful enough, sometimes 
ignoring the advice of parents, thus doing them grievous 
wrong. The young people of our land often look upon their 
parents as old fogies in their views, and doings, and modes 
of religious worship, but ah, how true that the old parents 
and grandparents were much truer and better, and often 
more honest than many of the present day. Children and 
young people should remember the command: " Honor thy 
father and thy mother: that thy days may be long upon the 
land which the Lord thy Cod giveth thee," which is the first 
commandment with promise. Exodus 20:12. 




CHAPTEE X. 

MlSSION[j WOEK. 

MISSIONARIES — $15.00 PER YEAR ] FURNISHES ALL — WHO WERE 

THE MEN OF GOD — THEOSOPHY — MISSIONS — CASTES — 

CHRISTMAS SONGS — MEETING OF MISSIONARIES — 

REV. HALICHAM BANNAGEE. 

MISSIONARY must understand the language 
and dialect of the natives to the extent that 
he is able to teach them the fundamental 
principles of our religion. They say, " Where 
is your God ? Show Him to us and we will believe." They 
must be taught that there is a God, and that He is a re warder 
of those who diligently seek Him. 

Many of the natives are very intelligent and hold with 
tenacity to their peculiar heathen views which must be sup- 
planted by sound doctrines, if they are to be won for Christ. 
To do this requires grace, knowledge and wisdom, and many 
faithful workers have worn their lives away without seeing 
much apparent result. This should not discourage others 
from taking up the work where they have left off, especially 
since we know that it has taken hundreds of years for some 
other nations to become Christianized. It ought to be the 
prayer of all Christian people of this country that God 
would bless the mission work, and all those who labor therein 
so faithfully. We ought to contribute in that direction all 
we can and God will reward us for it. 



LEND A HELPING HAND. 



81 



We were informed by Rev. Gurnsay, of Madras, that 
the chief and best method of converting the natives to our 
Christian religion, is to get the children under Christian 
influence, and to accomplish this end it requires more men 
and more means. 

One institution is working on the plan of taking native 
children and keeping them under their influence until grown. 
There are many from heathen families that can be had by 
simply asking. A boy can be supported, clothed, fed, and 




MADRAS CATAMARANS. 

receive a good schooling for $15.00 per year. " O," said the 
poor missionary, "if the rich people in America only knew 
how much good they could do with a little money! If a man 
would agree to furnish $15.00 per year, he or the missionaries 
could select a bright young boy who would be kept and 
taught the gospel until he was qualified for a good Christian 
life, the child to be named after the man that furnishes the 

6 



82 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

money for his education. For instance, if a child eight years 
old were taken and kept, for ten years, at a cost of $150.00, 
his benefactor would then have a boy, or rather a man, bear- 
ing his own name and working for God in a dark heathen 
country. Ought not such things attract the attention of our 
Christian people and should not every one ask: "What can 
I do both at home and in foreign lands for my fallen 
brethren ? " 

There are many from our country here, husbands, wives 
and children, laboring for the Lord. It appears that many 
live too high to reach the poor people, while others are right 
amongst them. As a certain missionary said: " O, I am 
married to this country and this people. Many look at these 
people as though they were ignorant, and incapable of being 
taught." Referring to Bible subjects and to many prominent 
Bible characters, he asked the question, " Who were the}^?" 
The answer came, "Asiatics; and what other nations now 
are, is largely due to what Asia gave them, long, long 
ago." How true this is. 

One thing is threatening the success of the Christian 
work here and that is the doctrine of Theosophy, I heard 
Mrs. Besant, an American lady of great talent and influence, 
lecture among the Hindoos on that subject. She declared it 
to be the coming religion, comparing the eastern castes 
with the western classes, and made a strong impression on 
the natives. 

It appears that the world is open for the gospel, and 
those poor people long to be led and helped, and when we see 
that they indeed are in need of help, in every way, it moves 
the heart with compassion. There are some that will fall at 
your feet, kiss your shoes, and beg for a little rice to satisfy 



CHRISTMAS EVE IN MADEAS, 



83 



their hunger. The question comes, What can be done for 
such ? • 

There are many mission societies in Madras, and great 
efforts are being put forth to convert the natives to Chris- 
tianity. 

The natives appear very clever and intelligent, many of 
them having but one view regarding religious worship. They 

are divided into 
castes and are 
nearly all known 
i by their caste 
m ark o n the 
forehead. Most 
of them are 
poorly clad, and 
indeed many are 
almost naked. 
We had the priv- 
ilege of attend- 
ing some of their 
religious meet- 
ings, and they 
appear very 
rvirnest in their 
different forms 
of worship. 
On Christmas 
oriiiiaai vuoto.) ^yg ^ numbcr of 

Hindoo boys, in 
small companies, marched through the town singing songs. 
Next morning, about three or four o'clock, we heard music, 




OOOLIE GIRL. 



84 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

and upon inquiry, were told that it was the custom of the 
Christian people to go through the streets of that large city 
on Christmas night, singing merry Christmas songs, an- 
nouncing that a Savior is born. We listened, and listened, 
and it lifted our thoughts heavenward. Our thoughts then 
reverted to the Christian customs of the people in our own 
land; how indifferent many of them are! Here the Christian 
people are very earnest and enthusiastic, and are using their 
lives for God and His cause. We were informed that on 
Christmas night nearly all the churches call their singers out 
to sing in memory of the angels. 

We attended a number of the services of the different 
churches here which were very good. The Salvation Army 
is also doing much in this country, and it is claimed by many 
that the most effectual work done here is done by them. 

It was a source of pleasure to meet a number of our 
country men and women in the mission field, among whom 
were Rev. King, Rev. Gurnsay, and Rev. J. W. West of 
Ohio; Miss Ida Skimmer from Oregon, and Miss Penny of 
Valparaiso, Ind. These noble Christian workers have left 
their homes and comforts for Jesus' sake. On one occasion, 
while 1 was eating supper, five persons, three gentlemen and 
two ladies, came in and took seats. They were busily engaged 
in conversation, and after the meal was eaten I excused my- 
self and went to my room. After I had left they inquired 
of the landlord who I was and to what nationality I belonged. 
When they learned that I was an American, they sent 
for me and I soon found that they were all Americans: Rev. 
Newcomer and wife, from Shelby ville, Ind., Rev. Frank and 
wife, from Lafayette, Ind., and Rev. Fuller, of Boston, 
Mass. I also met Rev. Shaw and family, who were on their 



REV. HALICHAM BANNAGEE. 



85 



way back to America. Such meetings with Christian people, 
in a foreign land, are very highly appreciated; and those dear 
missionaries will never be forgotten. 

We were permitted to listen to a native minister by the 
name of Rev. Halicham Bannagee. There was a large 
attendance at this meeting. His subject was taken from 
Isaiah, '"''I saw the Lord.'''' It was an able and an interesting 
discourse, and it is hoped that the good seed so earnestly 
s)wn will grow until all his hearers may see the Lord. 





(Original Photo.) 



WOMEN CLEANING HEADS. 



Many of the American and European missionaries are 
dressed in native costumes. It is said men wear their hair 
long to gain the confidence of the natives. O, how simple 
and Christ-like it looks to see them stoop down and sit 
together with these people in humility, having all things in 
common. 



86 



AROUND THE GLOBE. 



It is no small position to be a missionary in these dark 
countries. In our own enlightened, Christian country, if 
one can sing, pray and talk to the people, he may be able to 
do a great deal of good, because there are but very few peo- 
ple that do not at least theoretically believe in one God and 
in Jesus Christ as the Savior of the world ; but in heathen 
countries it is different. 




'NINETY TO NINETY-FIVE PER CENT. ARE POOR PEOPLE. 



Have pity on them, for their life 

Is full of grief and care; 
You do not know one-half the woes 

The very poor must bear; 
You do not see the silent tears 

By many a mother shed, 
As childhood offers up the prayer— 

"Give us oiir daily bread." 



#*J 




( Taken from Photo.) 
TPIE FIELD OF BLOOD, OR VALLEY OF HINNOM. 



No action, whether foul or fair. 
Is ever done, but it leaves somewhere 
A record, written by fingers ghostly 
As a blessing or a curse; and mostly 
In the greater weakness or greater strength 
Of the acts which follow it; till at length 
The wrongs of ages are redressed. 
And the justice of God made manifest. 
—Longfellow. 




CHAPTER XI. 

Madras to Calcutta. 

meeting the american party — services on board — iiugli 

RIVER — THE IMMENSE WASH OF THE HUGLI — SAGAR 

ISLAND— DANGEROUS PASSAGE — JUNGLES — 

MET MANY SHIPS AND BOATS — 

CALCUTTA. 

UNDAY, January 6, 1895, we left Madras for 
Calcutta, taking passage on the ship Mirza- 
pore, and again met the party of Ameri- 
cans on board. Services were held on the 
ship, at which time some singing was done which was very 
encouraging to all. The sea was quite calm while sailing up 
the bay of Bengal. Our vessel was one of the largest steam- 
ers on these waters, smaller boats being usually used for 
coast trips to and from points on the bay. 

On January 8 we entered the channel of the Hugli river, 
which is one of the outlets of the Ganges, and others of 
the Hindoo, so-called sacred rivers. We are now 120 miles 
from Calcutta. As we proceed up the river the water be- 
comes very muddy. This is a very dangerous channel to 
pass on account of the immense quantities of sediment being 
continually deposited by the river, and on this account skill- 
ful pilots are required to steer clear of the many obstructions. 
It is estimated that it would require about 1,500 large ships 
every day to carry the sand and earth that the Hugli takes to 



90 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

the sea. Hence, the hind is gradually drifting seaward. Ships 
once wont forty miles above Calcutta, where now there is no 
passage. The first land to be seen is a low strip forming the 
southern boundary of Sagar island. The portion near the sea 
consists of thick jungles and marshes, where tigers and other 
wild beasts are numerous. 

Once a year on this island a great bathing festival is 
held, called Ganga Sagar, to commemorate the supposed 
descent of the Ganges from heaven to restore to life the 
nO,000 sons of King Sngan Hcr(>, too, mothers, in fulfiUment 






THE nUGLI RIVER. 



of VOWS, used to offer their young children to the Ganges to 
be devoured by the crocodiles, until the practice was stopped 
by the British government. The mouth of the Hugli river 
is so wide that land cannot be seen on both sides at the same 
time, but the channel gradually becomes narrower as we 
proceed up stream. About forty miles from Calcutta is the 
James and Mary, a dangerous shoal, caused by the sand 
brought down by the Damodar and Rupnarayan rivers. If a 
ship touches the bottom at this place, she is immediately 



APPROACHING CALCUTTA. 



91 



pushed over by the strong current. In the space of half an 
hour even large ships have been known to almost disappear, 
numbers of them having been lost. 

The soil gradually becomes richer; trees, rice-fields, 
palm and bamboo groves become common. At length the 
port is reached. The long tiers of shipping, the fort rising 
from the great Maidan, and the domes, steeples, and noble 
public buildings of Calcutta beyond, gradually unfold their 
beauty. The traveler really feels that he is approaching the 
city of palaces. 





CHAPTER XII. 

Calcutta. 

city of palaces— "a c4lobe trotter" — bathing in the sacred 

river— mission service— burning gnatt— infant 

weddings — widowhood ~ tombstone 

of an american, and a 

brother's words. 

HIS is a large city, containing 840,130 inhab- 
itants. Hiigli, across the river, united to 
Calcutta by a floating bridge, contains 130,000 
inhabitants. Many visitors are seen in this 
city at the hotels in the evening. We were introduce<l 
to an American "Globe Trotter," as they are frequently 
called, whose name was Charles Randell, from New York. 
The young man started on the 26th of January, 1894, to 
make a tour around the world on foot, in two years, 
for a wager of 120,000.00. He has had wonderful experi- 
ences, and was then carrying with him compliments and 
government seals of every country through which he had 
come. He intended to leave Calcutta in a short time and, if 
successful, expected to reach New York by October, 1895. 
Mr. Randell is a strong, robust young man, twenty-f our years 
of age, and has had some thrilling experiences in some of the 
dangerous places through which he passed. It seems strange 
that a young man would venture out on such a tour entirely 



CALCUTTA.— RIVER WORSHIP. 



m 



unprotected, riskinoj his life at every step. We felt sorry to 
see him, thus recklessly, further expose himself. We also 
met another American, a gentleman from Scranton, Penna. 
On the 11th of January, a company of us went down to 
the banks of the Hugli, where the natives worship the river, 
regarding it as very sacred. They bathe, pray, slap the 




HIGH COURT, CALCFTTA. 

water, throwing it over their heads, facing the sun, and, with 
folded hands, pray aloud. There are hundreds and hundreds 
of them, men, women and children. Some immerse their 
children and then pray, while others scatter flowers upon the 
waters. They seem very devoted, and leave no ceremony in 
their peculiar worship, unperformed. 



94 AilOUND THE GLOBE. 

The weather is very warm, and during the day people go 
out but little; in the evening, however, the city is all astir. 

CREMATORY. 

In company with two other gentlemen, we visited the 
" Burning Gnatt," where the bodies of the dead are burned. 
Six bodies were there at that time, and we passed one on the 
street. The body of the deceased is wrapped in a sheet, and 
carried on a kind of bier. A little ditch is made in the earth 
or ashes, sticks are laid over this first crosswise and then 
lengthwise, and in this manner the funeral pile, about four 
feet long, is built up until a few feet high. The corpse is 
then laid on the pile and more fuel put on both sides, and 
over it, the legs being bent under the body at the knees. 
The face is left uncovered. The administering priest and the 
wife of the husband prepare some food, usually rice mixed 
with vegetables, which is then put into and upon the mOuth 
of the dead man, by his wife, who next takes a handful of 
thatch, lights it with fire, carries it around the corpse three 
times, and then holding it for a moment to the mouth of the 
dead body, applies the flames to the funeral pile which is 
soon ablaze. The foreman of the crematory, speaking Eng- 
lish, said to us, "How glad that woman would be to be 
burned with her husband, but the law forbids it now ; for- 
merly this was done." There were five or six bodies burned 
during the time we were here. 

A woman was seen walking back and forth, wringing her 
hands and crying, and seemed to be in deep agony. We 
inquired, " What does that mean?" They told us, "The 
body at her side is that of her husband." O, how sad ! In 
this way they are burned by the thousand. Every day such 
scenes as we have described can be seen. After the body 



INFAKT WEDDIHGS. 97 

is burned the ashes are thrown into the river Hugli 
which flows along at the side of the gnatt. The widows, 
of which there are twenty-one million, are never allowed 
to marry again. The English laws are about to change that 
also, and set them free. 

INFANT WEDDINGS. 

Many infant weddings, of which we witnessed several, 
take place in India. Parents contract for their children, and 
after they are married, keep them in charge until they attain 
a certain age, when they move away by themselves. 
If the husband should die in the meantime, the widow, 
though but a child, can never be married again ; perhaps she 
may never have known her husband. It is required that 
widows shall lay aside all their ornaments, withdraw from 
society in general and live a separate and isolated life, which 
makes widowhood, judging from our standpoint, a very sad 
and lamentable life. The English government has already 
abolished the cruel custom of burning the widow with the 
dead body of her husband, and it is now making efforts to 
liberate her from this outcast and secluded life, and allow her 
to marry again just as widows in civilized countries do. There 
is nothing to be compared to a Christian life, a Christian 
death, and a Christian burial. 

The air, we noticed, was full of crows, hawks and vul- 
tures, coming down in the streets of the city. No one 
molested them, as they are considered sacred by the Hindoos. 

INSCRIPTION ON A TOMBSTONE. 

Walking through the city we passed a marble yard, 
where tombstones were being made. In front of this yard 
was a slab lying in sand, at which the workmen were still 

7 



98 AEOUKD THE GLOBE. 

employed. They place them in sand to prevent them from 
being broken. The inscription was as follows: — 

"Emma Osborn Ambrose, born in Sharon, Mich., 
U. S. A., 2d of January, 1841; born again at the age of nine. 
Appointed to mission service, from Nebraska, July 9, 1879. 
Died here in the Bghai Kaven mission service, July 20, 1893. 




HINDOO FESTIVAL. (OriyindL I'luito.) 

Her parents, Ruel and Rebekah, surviving; brothers, Geo. 
W., of Omaha, Neb., and J. Clement, of Chicago, 111. A 
brother's words: " Were parents and brothers standing by, 
they all would say, 'She was the best of our name.' Light 
after darkness." 

Would to God this might be said of all that are dead 
and gone. " Though she is dead she yet speaketh." 

THE SABBATH DAT. 

Sunday, January 20, was a Sabbath day ; this day, 
however, is not observed in the Orient as it is in our country. 



RELIGION or NEPAL. 



m 



Churches are not so well attended and places of amusement are 
preferred. Many of the business houses and shops are open. 
Theaters and the like are carried on to their utmost extent. 
You see traces all around that you are not in a Christian 
land. You see many bow to the sun, and others to the raging 
sea, offering their prayers in the evening, when the sun sets. 
Buddhism is the religion of Nepal. Some of them have 
prayer wheels, which they turn with their hands or a string. 
Some are placed in streams and are kept constantly revolving 
by running water. Flags are also erected, upon which their 
six holy syllables are embroidered. Whenever they are 
blown by the wind, it counts as a repetition. The prayer 
mill, driven by the wind, is another device. True prayer 
is the heart's desire, and should be addressed to the one true 
and living God; all else is worthless. We are taught to pray 
without ceasing, not with a water-wheel or a wind-mill, but 
to have our affections on God and our hearts breathing to 
Him in prayer, making our wants known ; and He who alone 
can hear the silent prayer, and the groanings of the honest 
heart, will hear and answer our petitions. 




PRAYER MILL. 




CHAPTER XIII. 

Benares. 

railroad accommodations — a nice country^temples and 
mosques— bloody sacrifices— monkey temple— animal 

WORSHIP— PILGRIMS— THE TREACHEROUS LIE--A HIN- 
DOO SAYING — "SONS OF THE GANGES" — DIS- 
TANCES AND FARES — DISGRACEFUL 
CARVINGS — DANCING GIRLS. 

N the 22d of January, at 20 : 59, we left Cal- 
cutta. Railroad time is not computed here 
as it is in America, the hours running from 
jL^^|^«|^^^ one to twenty-four, beginning at midnight. 
According to our way of counting time, 20 : 69 would be 
8 : 59 P. M. The cars here are arranged in compartments, 
and at night only six passengers are allowed in each com- 
partment, which gives plenty of room for all of them to lie 
down and sleep quite comfortably. Bunks, which are hinged 
to the sides of the compartments, are let down, and as they 
are not upholstered, those who want to be comfortable must 
carry blankets, pillows, etc., of their own; these are also 
needed at many of the hotels in this country. There are 
good hotel and restaurant accommodations along the railroad 
lines. 

We passed through a nice country, growing with wheat, 
barley, and various agricultural products. Numerous palm 
groves, and mango trees, bearing a very palatable fruit, were 



BENARES.— THE SACRED CITY. 



101 



seen ; but there were very few buildings among them. We 
crossed the Ganges river, which is very wide, and in wet 
weather almost floods the whole surrounding country. 

We arrived at Benares, the most sacred city of the 
Hindoos, the next day at noon. Its soil, its wells, its 
streams, its temples, its inhabitants, and everything in and 
around it are, by the Hindoos, considered sacred, or holy. 
Benares stands on the Ganges, and stretches about four miles 




BUKNING GNATT. 

along the northern banks. The river, more than a third of 
a mile in breadth, sweeps around like a bay. Temples, 
mosques, palaces, and buildings of every description rise 
above a cliff one hundred feet high, from the summit of 
which a multitude of stone ghats, of great diversity, descend 
to the bed of the river. Hindoos, at onetime, thought that 
the Gano;es and some of the other rivers would not allow 



102 



AEOUND THE GLOBE. 



themselves to be bridged; but now there is a fine railroad 
bridge across the Ganges. The explanation now accepted 
by the ignorant, is that the British Government accomplished 
it through human sacrifices. 

The streets of Benares are mostly crooked, and some are 
so narrow as not to admit carriages. Many of the houses 
are built of stone, some of them six stories high. In a few 
instances the upper stories of two buildings on opposite sides 
of the street are connected in such a way as to form rooms 

which are used as living 
apartments. There are 
shops here of every kind, 
and for every trade. 

Benares is noted for its 
enchased brass vessels, its 
cloths, finely embroidered 
with gold and silver, and 
its innumerable small 
shrines. There are in Ben- 
ares about 1,500 Hindoo 
temples and nearly 200 
mosques. In the front of 
the Durga temple, at the 
southern extremity of the 
city, bloody sacrifices are 
offered every Tuesday. A 
lamb is the offering. 
The temples, and yards surrounding them, are full of 
monkeys, which are fed as an act of merit. By giving a 
little money to the attendants you will receive a small quan- 
tity of grain, and when that is thrown down into the court 




MONKEY TEMPLE. 



SANCTITY OF BENAKES. 103 

yard the monkeys come from all directions, tumbling over 
each other fighting for their share. On entering this temple 
the shoes must be taken off, after which the priest comes and 
hangs a string of flowers around your neck, while so many of 
the natives follow and cause such a commotion that one is 
inclined to remain but a short time. 

Another temple was visited, in which cows were wander- 
ing about, and it looked a little like our American barnyards. 
The cattle would, doubtless, have been far happier had they 
been in green fields. Animal worship is one of the most 
degrading features of Hindooism. Many places along the 
Ganges are considered so sacred by the Hindoos that the 
mere act of visiting them is supposed to possess the virtue of 
washing away their sins. They believe that at these places 
five rivers meet, but to an American, or any other civilized 
person, or even the natives themselves, only one is visible. 

Pilgrims, separately or in crowds, are constantly seen 
entering or departing from Benares throughout the whole 
year, and especially on great festival occasions. They come 
from all parts of India, and many carry away with them, 
in small bottles, the sacred water of the Ganges. The bottles 
are placed in baskets, hanging from a pole, which they bear 
upon their shoulders. It is claimed by some that the sanctity 
of Benares extends from the Ganges to the Panch-kosi road. 
Whoever dies within this limit, or area, whether Hindoo, 
Mussulman, or Christian, whether pure in heart and life, or 
an outcast and a murderer, is sure of heaven. Hence the 
usurer, who has spent all his life in oppressing the poor, or 
he who is guilty of the foulest crimes, at the approach of 
death comes to Benares, and is comforted with the treacher- 
ous lie that his sins are forgiven and his soul is saved. 



104 



AKOUI^D THE GLOBE. 



Intelligent Hindoos know that such hopes are false. 
There is a saying amongst them to this effect, "He who has 
guilt on his conscience will not become clean, though he wash 

himself until 
he dies, with 
all the waters 
of the Ganges, 
and smear him- 
self with mount- 
ains of mud." 
It is stated that 
many of the 
business men of 
Benares bathe 
daily in the Gan- 
ges, and then go 
home to tell lies 
and defraud 
their customers. 
A number of the 
Brahmans are 
called ' ' Sons of 
the Ganges." 

Benares is 

476 miles from 

Calcutta by 

DANCING GIRL. " ^.^ij^ rphe fare, 

third-class, is six rupees. It is 945 miles from Bombay, and 
the fare is 12 rupees and 15 annas. From Madras the 
distance is 1,550 miles, and the fare is 23 rupees and 13 
annas. The population of Benares is 222,500. In many of 




[Original Photo.) 





, J runt fiiDlo.) 



UPPER KIDRON AND MOUNT CALVARY, AS SEEN 
IN THE FOREGROUND. 



When on Calvary I rest, 
God, in flesh made manifest, 
Shines in my Eedeemer's face, 
Pull of beauty, truth, and grace. 

Here I would forever stay. 
Weep and gaze my soul away; 
Thou art Heaven on earth to me, 
Lovely, mournful Calvary. 

—James Montgomery. 



DANCING GIRLS. 107 

the temples, the most disgraceful carvings and sculptures 
imaginable are shown. They are life size, of both sexes, and 
are considered sacred, while in America they would be 
considered obscene, and most damnable in their sinfulness. 

Next to the sacrificers, the most important persons about 
the temples are the dancing girls, who call themselves 
servants of the gods. Their profession is to be open to the 
embraces of persons of all castes. They are bred to this life, 
selected from all castes, and are frequently of respectable 
birth. It is a very common thing to hear of women with the 
belief that, to consecrate their children to the temple service 
will tend to their happy delivery. ^They make a vow, with 
the consent of their husbands, to devote the child, if a girl, 
to the service of the Pagoda, the vow being made before the 
child is born. In so doing they imagine that they are 
performing a meritorious as well as a religious duty, the 
infamous life to which the daughter is thus destined bringing 
no disgrace upon the family. According to the census in 
the Madras Presidency, the number of these dancing girls 
was 11,573. Such a condition of affairs is indeed lamentable. 
Oh! reader, imagine, if you can, the licensed shamelessness 
of this consecrated profligacy, carried on under the sanction 
of so-called religion, and in the full blaze of publicity, while 
statesmen and those at the head of a nation, with all its wise 
men of letters, look on unconcerned, not uttering one 
word of disapprobation, and not raising one finger to 
remove it ! 





CHAPTER XIV. 

Allahabad. 

junction of sacred rivers— thousands of pilgrims— banners 

AND FLAGS FLOATING — UNDERGROUND TEMPLE — SUICIDE 
— BRAHMANS DROWNING — PRAYAG — INDIA PRO- 
DUCTIONS AND ANIMALS — ENGLISH OFFI- 
CERS — FORTS— SOLDIERS. 

ROM Benares, we went to Allahabad, which is 
the capital of the North-west provinces. It is 
situated at the junction of the Ganges and the 
Jumna rivers. It is a very ancient city, and 
one of the principal places where the Hindoos gather to wor- 
ship. The native town consists of a network of narrow 
streets, intersected by a few main roads. The English 
quarter is handsomely laid out, with broad streets, planted 
with trees and bordered by running streams on either side. 

Thousands of pilgrims were gathered here, as is always 
the case the first of the year, from all parts of India ; some 
came by train, some with their native bullock carts, others on 
pony carts, some on camels, and some on elephants. 

The river banks were lined with people, and flags and 
banners were floating for miles. Thousands and thousands 
were here bathing and bottling the water of the Ganges. 
There was music in every direction ; monks with long hair 
were sitting around with their faces smeared with clay and 
paint, some of them sitting on spikes driven through planks. 



An undekgeound temple. 



10^ 



Seen from the river, the fort presents a striking appear- 
ance, crowning the point where, the Ganges and the Jumna 
unite. Near Asoka's Pillar, steps lead down to an under- 
ground Hindoo temple. This building, dedicated to Siva, 
passes as the place where the river Saraswati unites with the 
Ganges and the Jumna. The damp walls of the chambers 
afford sufficient proof of its existence for the satisfaction of 
devotees. 




SACRED TREE. 



Passing through the narrow, damp passage with a guide 
and light, and in the presence of our friend, we came to the 
stump of a banyan tree, said to be fifteen centuries old, and 
still alive; it is here an object of worship. A light burns 
before it, and beside it sits a Brahman to receive the offer- 
ings. A cloth is so arranged that the tree cannot be properly 
seen. In reality it is merely part of a forked tree with its 
bark on, stuck into the ground, and it is renewed secretly by 



110 AHOtrND THE GLOBE. 

the priests when it threatens to decay. A gentleman tried 
the bark with his finger nail, and found it quite dry and 
brittle. 

The temple also contains the image of a man named 
Makunba, a famous saint who committed suicide because he 
had been guilty of the great sin of having accidentally swal- 
lowed the hair of a cow, by drinking milk without first 
straining it. 

The English ofiicer, at the fort through which all must 
go to enter this underground temple, said, on inquiry, that 




BKAHMANS DROWNING THEMSELVES. 

every one who went in was recorded, and that on one day 
30,000 had passed through, all with lights in their hands, and 
that only a small portion of those present outside, on the 
banks of the river, went in, because it required a small fee 
which they had not to give. 

In many places soldiers and officers were present to keep 
order, as in the rush through the gates some tread others 
down, so as to get into the places of worship first. 

Prayag is considered one of the most efficacious places 
in India for bathing. At Mela, early in the year, the point 



INDIA.— PRODUCTS. 113 

near the junction is crowded by thousands of pilgrims. It 
was the custom, until stopped by the British government, 
for some to drown themselves at this junction, in the sup- 
posed belief of thus securing heavenly homes. The victim 
went out to the middle of the stream with fellow Brahmans 
in a boat. One hand was tied firmly to a large earthen 
vessel ; the other hand held a small cup. He was assisted 
into the water by those in the boat, the air in the empty 
vessel serving to keep him afloat. He then, with the cup, 
commenced slowly to fill the pot with water. As each cup- 
ful was added, the vessel gradually sank, until the balance 
was turned, when it rapidly filled, and by its weight dragged 
the deluded creature beneath the waters. So far from being 
a work of merit, it is a sin to destroy one's self. 

The population of Allahabad is about 177,000. 

On January 26th we started for Bombay by the way 
of Jubulpore. At this season of the year they were in the 
midst of the barley harvest. The principal crops are corn, 
barley, wheat, linseed, curry, and indigo. We saw several 
deer and large wild birds, but no wild tigers. It is said, 
however, that they are numerous in the jungles. We arrived 
at Bombay on Sunday morning. 

The interior of India is full of interest to the traveler. 
Its soil is very productive, though poorly cultivated. It has 
large rivers, populous cities and beautiful scenery. The 
country is under British rule, and is well fortified. There 
are many very strong fortifications, and a large military 
force is maintained at an immense expense. 





CHAPTER XV. 

Bombay. 

population — streets — buildings — missions — hospital for 
aged bullocks— ant feeding— child widows — 

ELEPHANTA CAVES. 

TTENDING services at the Scotch church occu- 
pied our first evening in Bombay. The sub- 
ject of the discourse was, "Jesus the Savior 
indeed." Bombay is the largest city and is 
situated on the finest harbor in India. The population is 
approximately 840,000. Hindooism is the prevailing relig- 
ion : about one fifth of the inhabitants are Mohammedans; 
and besides these there are a number of Parsees, Jews and 
Christians. 

The city itself consists mostly of well-built houses and 
broad streets, with some grand public buildings. It is 
claimed that Bombay was greatly enriched by the great de- 
mand for cotton during the Civil War in the United States. 
The fast increasing wealth and business of the city led to the 
erection of several magnificent buildings, among which are 
the Government Oflices, the University Building and the 
G. 1. P. Central railway station, said to be the finest build- 
ing of its kind in the world. 

One of the institutions in Bombay, which we visited, is a 
Pinjeapole, or hospital for old bullocks, dogs, cats, horses, 
sheep, goats, deer, monkeys, pigeons, chickens, ducks, 



BOMBAY.— HOSPITAL YOU ANIMALS. 



115 



geese and all kinds of domestic animals, many of them in a 
lamentable condition, and all left here to die a natural death. 
While there are many diseased and crippled, some are lying 
among them dead, and are not buried till the following night. 
The dogs and cats were fighting, and many of the animals 
were in such a condition as to almost break one's heart to 
see them, although they are well taken care of. The institu- 
tion and all'animals kept here are considered'sacred, and .the 




.VIEW OF BOMBAY HARBOR 

care which the keepers give them is regarded as a religious 
duty. 

Many of our American people, who make high claims to 
civilization and Christianity, show far less kindness to their 
dumb brutes than is shown by these heathen people, 
upon whom they look down with the utmost contempt. Be- 
hold, what a contrast! Among our so-called Christian people 



116 ABOUKD THE GLOBE. 

a humane officer is needed to teach them their duty towards 
the domestic animals; among these heathen the care of a poor 
brute becomes a religious duty. The wise man teaches us,^ 
" The righteous showeth mercy towards his beast." 

I was informed that it costs the society, to maintain this' 
institution, between four and five thousand rupees per- 
month. This is all under the control of a religious sect 
called the Jains, and is considered by them a work of great 
merit. Some of them, mostly those of the poorer classes, 
feed pigeons and scatter sugar near ant hills, looking upon 
this as "good works" from a religious standpoint, and doing 
what they can so that they may not be without Something to 
render them acceptable before their god. Others feed the ox 
and the more exalted animals, but they do not look down 
upon and discard their poorer or less fortunate neighbors be- 
cause they are not able to do as much as others, or to dress 
as finely as they. In this respect some of our American 
people would suffer in a comparison with the Jains. 

The pity and sympathy of many of these people is 
altogether confined to the brute creation, going so far as 
trying to prevent the slaughter of sheep for food ; while on 
the subject of female infanticide they are silent. 

Principal Wordsworth, acknowledged to be one of the 
warmest friends of India, and from his position having the 
best means of ascertaining the truth, makes the following 
severe remarks regarding the action of some educated 
Hindoos: — 

"I need hardly say, that I consider the existence of the 
Hindoo child-widow one of the darkest blots that ever de- 
faced the civilization of any people, and it is the direct and 
necessary consequence of the system of infant marriage. 



HINDOO CHILD WIDOWS. 



117 



now. 



Some years ago I should have expected that these sentiments 
woald have an echo in the bosom of every Hindoo who had 
received an English education, and particularly among those 
persons who were attempting to appropriate the political 
methods and ideas of Englishmen. I have no such delusion 
I find some of them employing all the resources of 

theological 
sophistry and 
cant, not simply 
to palliate, but 
to vindicate 
what is plainly 
one of the most 
cruel, blighting, 
and selfish forms 
of human super- 
stition and tyr- 
anny. I find 
others maneu- 
vering to arrest 
every sincere 
effort at reform, 
sophisticating 
between right 
and wrong, de- 
faming the char- 
acter and mo- 
tives of reform- 
ers, and laboring to establish by arguments as ridiculous as 
they are insulting, that English domestic society offers a 
warning rather than an example to Hindoos. I find th^ro 




{Original Photo.) 



CHILD IN JEWELS. 



,118 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

vindicating early marriage as the only safeguard against uni- 
versal sexual license, a confession of moral incompetence 
which I should have thought that any people, with a grain of 
self respect, would have shrunk from advancing." Hindoos 
believe strongly in the spirit of reaction. It is said to have its 
centre in Poona, the chief stronghold of Brahman orthodoxy. 
"On the other hand, Bombay has a few zealous reformers, 
and it is hoped that the reactionary movement will soon pass 
away." 

THE CAVE TEMPLES OF INDIA. 

The cave temples of India are among its greatest mar- 
vels. No other country in the world possesses such a mag- 
nificent group of rock-cut monuments. The period during 
which the people of India were given to making these excava- 
tions," is supposed to have begun about 250 B. C, and to 
have ended about 800 A. D. More than nineteen of the 
cave temples are found in the Bombay Presidency. I will 
give some account of a celebrated cave on the island of 
Elephanta, about six miles from Bombay, by boat, which I, 
with others, was permitted to visit. It was so called by the 
Portuguese, from a stone elephant which stood near the old 
landing place. The greatest cave is in the western hill of 
the island, and at an elevation of* about 250 feet above the 
sea-level. It is hewn out of a hard, compact rock, which has 
also been cut away on either side, leaving an open, spacious 
front supported by two massive pillars and two half pillars. 
This forms three openings under a thick and steep rock. It 
is overhung by brushwood and wild shrubs. The whole ex- 
cavation consists of three principal parts, the great temple 
itself, which is in the center, and two smaller compartments, 
one on each side. 



' ■•t^^ ^ Mi f 




ELEPHANTA CAVE. 121 

The great temple is about 130 feet long, and as broad. 
It rests on twenty-six pillars, eight of them now broken, and 
sixteen half pillars. It varies in height from fifteen to nine- 
teen feet. On entering the temple, one of the first objects 
which attracts notice, is a large figure of the Trimurti, nine- 
teen feet in height. On each side stand gigantic door 
keepers about twelve feet in height. In approaching the 
THmurti^ the shrine or garbha of the temple is passed to 
the right. It is entered by doors on the four sides, with a 
gigantic doorkeeper at each door. The chamber is perfectly 
plain on the inside, and about nineteen feet square. In the 
center stands an altar or vedi. about ten feet square and three 
feet high. In the center of this is placed the linga^ cut from 
a block of a harder grain than that in which the cave is 
excavated. 

The compartment to the east of the Trimurti contains 
numerous gigantic figures, grouped about a gigantic Ard- 
hanari, or Siva, represented as a half-male and half-female 
divinity. The figure is nearly seventeen feet high. It is 
seen from the description, which is given by competent and 
reliable men, that the temple belonged to the Siva sect. 

On Sunday, February 3, 1895, we attended services con- 
ducted under the auspices of the Church of Scotland. The 
subject in the morning was, "The Transfiguration of Christ." 
Communion services were held in the evening. These serv- 
ices were conducted in a manner very similar to those in the 
Protestant churches of our large cities. 

There are a number of mission schools and mission 
workers in Bombay. The Salvation Army is well represented 
and is very successful, as their members will venture into 
places where other Christian workers will not go. 




CHAPTER XVI. 

Parsees. 

principal merchants— worship the four elements— child- 
training— marriage— marriageable age— marriage 

FUND — FUNERAL — PREPARING THE DEAD — 
"TOWERS OF SILENCE."' 

N proportion to their numbers, the Parsees are 
probably the richest class in India. They are 
descendants of the ancient Persians, who 
came to India many years a_o;o to avoid 
Mohammedan persecution. _ Much of the mercantile business 
of the East is in their hands. , Unfettered b}^ caste like 
Hindoos, they are free to travel wherever they please. They 
are also distinguished for the attention they pay to education. 
In religion, they are followers of Zoroaster or Zarathustra. 
Their sacred book, which is to them as the Bible is to us, is 
called the Avesta. Theoretically they claim to be mono- 
theists, but they adore the four, elements— fire, air, earth and 
water. Like the Hindoos, they attach great purifying power 
to the urine of the cow, called "Nirang." It is brought to 
their houses every morning. A small quantity of it is applied 
to the face, hands and feet. In greater purifications, some 
of the liquid is drank. 

A fire is kept ever burning in their temple. The 
learned Bishop Meurin, writing about the similarity between 



<»,:..-*-•._% ^i. 




[Orii/hid/ Photo.) 
GATES OF THE (JHUKCH OF THE HOLY yEPULOHKE. 



Not bleeding bird, nor bleeding beast, 
Nor hyssop branch, nor earthly priest, 
Nor running brook, nor flood, nor sea. 
Can wash the dismal stain away. 

Jesus, Thy blood. Thy blood alone. 
Hath power sufficient to atone; 
Thy blood can make us white as snow; 
No other tide can cleanse us so. 



THE PARSEE RELIGION. 125 

the Parsee fire temple and the Christian sanctuary, says : 
"On this landing let us rest for a while. We have before us 
the sanctuary of the Parsee fire temple and the sanctuary of 
the Christian church. In both we see a perpetual flame 
indicating the presence of God ; there the omnipotence of 
God the Creator, here the sacramental presence of God the 
Redeemer. 1 am unable to express in words the deep and 
vehement feelings which move my heart when I kneel in the 
sanctuary of my chapel and think of the Parsee fire temple a 
few yards off, in which a fire is ever burning like the flame 
in our sanctuary, and in our hearts." 

The Bible so frequently refers to fire out of which God 
spoke, and by which He so often proved Himself, and which 
is so essential in the Christian work — the fire of the Holy 
Ghost. 

The Parsees do not bury their dead, but expose them in 
towers to be devoured by vultures. In the Avesta, the earth 
complains that she is polluted by the burial of the dead. The 
bodies are laid in what are called "Towers of Silence." Each 
tower usually has several vultures sitting motionless around 
the top, with their heads pointed inward. When a corpse is 
brought the vultures swoop down, and in a few minutes fly 
back satiated, and take up their former position. 

We will give here a selection from their code of morals, 
taken from a pamphlet, setting forth the principles of their 
religion, which was given us, along with a permit to visit the 
" Towers of Silence," by the secretary of their society. 

Five questions are asked and answered : 

Ques. "Who is the most fortunate man in the world? " 

Ans. "He who is the most innocent." 

Ques. "Who is the most innocent man in the world?" 



126 AEOUKD T'HE GLOBE. 

Ans. "He who walks in the path of God and shuns 
that of the devil." 

Ques. "Which is the path of God, and which that of 
the devil? " 

Ans. "Virtue is the path of God, and vice that of 
the devil." 

Ques. "What constitutes virtue, and what vice?" 

Ans. "Good thoughts, good words, and good deeds 
constitute virtue; and bad thoughts, bad words and bad 
deeds constitute vice." 

Ques. "W^hat constitutes good thoughts, good words 
and good deeds?" 

Ans. "Honesty, charity and truthfulness." 

All must acknowledge that these are very good rules 
from a strictly moral standpoint ; but there is no living 
Christ in them. The Parsees look to the God of nature. Oh, 
if they could only grasp and believe in the living God and 
His Son Jesus ! 

In the evening, as we were walking along the beach, we 
were surprised to see the Parsees, both men and women, 
making their way toward the sea, and here on the shore 
of the ocean, as the sun was sinking, they performed some 
of their religious rites. The sun was setting, and the water 
in the vast expanse of the Indian ocean was outstretched 
before them. There was no music save the solemn moan of 
the waves as they broke into foam upon the beach; but 
where shall we find an instriiment making grander music? 
O, could we in our service but close our eyes and see the 
greatness of God in all His works, on both land and sea, 
we would become more and more as a Christian people should 
be — more loyal to God and more consecrated to His service! 






J 







-.^ 



^ .■us.^J^-^ ^Mm^. 



PAKSEE CHILD-TEAINING. 



129 



Obedience to parents is a religious virtue with the Zor- 
oastrian religion. Disobedient children are considered great 
sinners. This virtue of obedience to parents was such a 
common characteristic with the ancient Zoroastrians that, as 
Herodotus says, "The legitimacy of a child accused of a 
misdeed toward the parent was looked at with great sus- 
picion." The parents were the rulers of the house — the 
father the king, the mother the queen; so that the children, 
as subjects, were bound to be obedient to their rulers. 




This obedience to parents at home, and to teachers at 
school, was a training for future obedience to the rules and 
manners of society at large, and to the constitutional forms 
for the government of their country. Children who are 
disobedient to their parents cannot be expected to be good 
members of society and good, loyal subjects to their rulers. 
For this reason the religious books greatly emphasize this 
virtue. One of the blessings that a priest prays for in a 

9 



130 AEOUKD THE GLOBE. 

house, when he performs the Afingan ceremony, is the 
obedience of the children to the head of the family. He 
prays, "May obedience overcome disobedience in this house; 
may peace overcome dissensions, may charity overcome want 
of charity, may courtesy overcome pride, may truth over- 
come falsehood." 

These writings agree well with the teachings of our 
gospel. Many of the children and the young people of 
Christian nations may learn good lessons from the teachings 
of a heathen people. 

PARSEE VIEWS ON MARRIAGE. 

Marriage is an institution which is greatly encouraged 
by the Parsee religion, on the grounds that a married life is 
more likely to be happy than an unmarried one ; that a 
married person is more likely to withstand physical and 
mental afflictions than an unmarried one, and that a married 
man is more likely to lead a religious and virtuous life than 
an unmarried one. The following words are given in their 
writings : "I say these words to you, marrying biides, and 
to you, bridegrooms. Impress them in your minds: May 
you two enjoy the life of good minds by following the laws 
of religion. Let each one of you clothe the other with right- 
eousness, because then assuredly there will be a happy life 
for you." 

An unmarried person is represented to feel as unhappy 
as a fertile piece of ground that is carelessly allowed to lie 
uncultivated by its owner. The fertile piece of ground, when 
cultivated, not only adds to the beauty of the spot, but gives 
nourishment and food to many others round about. So a 
married couple not only add to their own beauty, grace and 
happiness, but by their righteousness and good conduct are 



PAIiSEE MAERIAaES. 



131 



in a position to spread the blessings of help and happiness 
among their neighbors. Marriage being thus considered a 
good institution, and being recommended by their religious 
scriptures, it is accepted as a very meritorious act for a 
Parsee to help his co-religionists to lead married lives. 

Several rich Parsees have, with this charitable view, 
founded endowment funds, from which young, deserving 




brides are given small sums, on the occasion of their mar- 
riage, for the preliminary expenses of starting in married 
life. Fifteen years is the minimum marriageable age spoken 
of by the Parsee books. Parents have a voice of sanction or 
approval in the selection of wives and husbands. Marriages 
with others than Parsees are not recommended, as they are 



132 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

likely to bring about quarrels and dissensions, owing to a 
difference of manners, customs and habits. 

THE "to WEES OF SILENCE." 

We were permitted to stand on the opposite side of the 
street from a house in which a Parsee funeral service was 
being held. The Parsees are a very exclusive sect, and this 
was as close as we were allowed to approach. None but their 
own people are admitted or allowed to see the corpse. It 
appears, from the traditions of several ancient nations, that 
the dog played a prominent part in their burial services. 
They are still used by the Parsees. At this time the dog, led 
by a man, was taken into the house, and shortly afterward 
led out again. His particular part seems to be in seeing the 
dead body "four-eyed." A spotted dog, with a spot directly 
over each eye, is supposed by these people to possess the 
peculiar characteristic of instinctively designating to them 
whether or not the person is dead— staring steadily at him if 
life is extinct, and not looking at him at all if he is not 
altogether lifeless. Some attribute this "sag-deed" to some 
magnetic influence in the eyes of the dog ; others to the fact 
that the dog is, of all animals, the most faithful to his master; 
others consider a dog to be symbolic of the destruction of 
moral passions, and as death puts an end to all moral 
passions, so the presence of a dog near the dead body 
emphasized that idea. 

The corpse is wrapped in a winding sheet and carried by 
six men on a kind of bier rudely constructed of sticks and 
poles. The mourners and friends must all follow two by 
two, and are dressed in white. 

The "Towers of Silence," which practically constitute 
the Parsee cemetery, are situated a mile or two from the 



^ 




PARSEE FUNERALS. 135 

main part of the city. They are situated on a hill, in a park 
or enclosure containing thirty or forty acres. The grounds 
are very nicely kept. There are five of these towers ; one 
for family use, said to be over 200 years old, one for self- 
murderers, and three for general use. The rich and poor, 
great and small, are all alike brought to this place. No one 
but the attendants is allowed to enter these towers, as they 
are considered very defiling. 

There is another tower in the park which was built for 
the express purpose of making a model so that the Prince of 
Wales could see how they were built, he not being allowed 
to enter the others. We had a permit to go through the 
park, and visited this tower, which is an exact counterpart 
of the others. It consists of a wall about twenty-five feet 
high, perhaps twenty or thirty feet in diameter, with a small 
door which serves as an entrance. On the inside, in the 
center, is a well. Directly over the well is a crate upon 
which the bodies are exposed to the vultures sitting on the 
wall, waiting for their prey. The well is drained by other 
deeper wells near it, and the water and earth are disinfected 
with charcoal. There are other buildings in the park for the 
accommodation of the mourners and friends. 

When the funeral party arrives, the dead body is placed 
on a stone near one of the towers ; then two men take the 
corpse and carry it into the tower, placing it upon the crate. 
After the clothing has been removed, the men leave the 
tower, and the vultures are allowed to satisfy their cravings. 
There are from 300 to 400 of these vultures on the grounds, 
and in about one hour the fleshy parts of the body will be 
consumed by them, after which the skeleton is dropped into 
the well. 



136 



AROUND THE GLOBE. 



The towers and the dead are considered very defiling, 
this being the reason why no one is allowed to enter. The 
two attendants, who are set apart for this work, remain 
permanently on the grounds, and do not come in contact at 
all with the outside world. 

How grateful we should feel that we are born in a 
Christian land, with Christian privileges, and under Christian 
influences. 





(Ortyv/iul Jftioto ) 
CHURCH OF THE LORD'S PRAYER ON MOUNT OLIVET. 
INTERIOR OF THE PASSAGE. 

Oh, 'tis sweet to bring to Jesus ev'ry little care, 
Trials and temptations, which we cannot bear. 
Ev'ry sin which doth beset us. He will take away. 
If in faith believing, thus we humbly pray: 

"Our rather which art in heaven. Hallowed be Thy name. Thy 
kingdom come. Thy will be done in earth, as it is in heaven. Give us 
this day our daily bread. And forgive us our trespasses as we forgive 
those who trespass against us. And lead us not into temptation, but de- 
liver us from evil: For thine is the kingdom, and the power, and the 
glory, for ever. Amen." 




CHAPTER XVII. 
Bombay to Egypt. 

FAREWELL TO INDIA — WAR VESSELS — REV. AND BIRS. HAZEN — 
ARABIAN SEA — ADEN — RED SEA IN SIGHT — BIBLE LANDS — 
CROSSING OF THE ISRAEJ^ITES— MOUNT SINAI— SUEZ 
— THE CANAL — SHORT CUT AROUND THE 
GLOBE — BITTER LAKE — CROCO- 
DILE LAKE AND ISMALIA. 

E set sail on the 9th of February, going aboard 
the grand ship, Shannon, of the P. & O. line, 
on which we found very comfortable quarters 
for the voyage. Many came aboard, mostly 
Englishmen and Americans. Immense crowds gathered to 
see their friends off, as there is a close connection and good 
feeling between India and England, and other parts of 
Europe. Copious tears are shed on these occasions when 
husbands and wives and children part. 

As we leave the harbor, the numerous warships anchored 
in and around Bombay present a magnificent appearance. 
Soon our ship was out on the deep, making her way across 
the Arabian Sea. 

On Sunday, February 10th, very formal services were 
held on board by the captain. During the day we had the 
pleasure of meeting Rev. Hazen and wife, missionaries, on 
their way to visit their former home in America. 



140 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

This particular Sunday evening was very pleasant. The 
sea was calm and the moon and stars were shining brightly 
upon the waters, giving us a splendid view of the sea by 
moonlight. 

This beautiful sight brought the writer to realize how 
grandly and wonderfully God had arranged all these things, 
so that the sea, the moon and the stars obey His omnipotent 
will. The Parsees have great confidence in the moon and 
stars ; why then should we fear, when we trust in Him who 
controls them? Why should the Christian fear when he has 
Christ in the heart? 

Dear reader, it is not when we are at home, on land, 
where no dangers are seen, that we are safe ; but real safety 
is in God, even though we are in the midst of a great storm. 
He says, "I will go with thee." The Psalmist says, "A 
thousand shall fall at thy side, and ten thousand at thy right 

hand ; but it shall not come nigh thee Because thou hast 

made the Lord, which is my refuge, even the Most High, 
thy habitation; there shall no evil befall thee, neither shall 
any plague come nigh thy dwelling ; for he shall give his 
angels charge over thee to keep thee in all thy ways." 
Ps. 91:7—11. 

As we were now drawing near Aden, all those who had 
written letters prepared to mail them. At this point we 
entered the Red Sea and soon were in the Bible lands. The 
weather was fine, and we were now in sight of land. The 
country looked very barren and sandy, while on the east we 
saw Arabia and on the west Africa. 

We passed the wreck of a French steamer. Nothing but 
the mast was visible above the water. Large military sta- 






I I ' ' ' 

LForm. of the-Camp of" the Israelttea. 

EfeiffM B ag tHaa i s^mstis tJBsWri;^* Bs saga 



3 1 Longitude £ast SjZ from t 




SCENES ALONG THE EED SEA. 143 

tions and forts were passed as we entered the Red Sea. 
Many mountain peaks were seen in the distance. 

On the 16th of February, we had a very pleasant day, 
and the sea was like glass, almost without a ripple. How I 
longed for my friends and family to be with me. 

The passage of the children of Israel through the Red 
Sea was bearing much upon my mind, and as we were draw- 
ing toward the locality, mountains were seen, and references 
were made to several places as being the ones referred to 
where the children of Israel passed through. The country 
looks very barren, and there is apparently no means of sup- 
port for man or beast, but when there was a vast multitude 
of the children of Israel to pass through and take up their 
wanderings through the wilderness, God supported His 
own, by sending them manna from heaven. 

It is claimed by some that Mt. Sinai can be seen from 
the ship on a clear day, while others dispute it. But one 
thing is true: as we sailed along the gulf, the country looked 
very inspiring to a Christian, on account of the thoughts 
connected with God's visits to Moses and Israel during their 
sojourn here of forty years. My heart throbbed within me 
as we were nearing these Bible lands. How I enjoyed it 
and felt grateful to God for the blessing conferred upon me in 
permitting me to visit these most interesting points in all the 
world, — The Bible lands. 

The Red Sea is an arm of the sea extending from the 
Indian Ocean towards the north-west, between Arabia and 
Africa, to a distance of fourteen hundred miles. It is entered 
at the southern extremity through a strait only eighteen miles 
in width. At the widest place it is two hundred and twenty- 
one miles in width. Toward the north end it gradually con- 



144 



ABOUi^D THE GLOBE. 



tracts, and at length divides into two arms, the gulf of Akaba 
and the gulf of Suez, formerly called Heroopolitic gulf. 

The water is of a beautiful, blue color, changing near 
the surface, where there are shoals or reefs, to a pale 
green. No satisfactory reason for the modern name (Red 
Sea)' has yet been given. 




CHILDREN OF ISRAEL CROSSING THE RED SEA. 

The weather was very warm, and sailors say that the 
passage through the Red Sea is the warmest and most sultry 
of any part of the entire voyage around the world. 

Suez was now in view, and we crossed at the place where 
historians claim the passage of the children of Israel was 



THE SUEZ CAKAL. 145 

made. It is but a few miles from where the ship enters the 
Suez canal. 

During the last half day of our passage here, the sea 
became very rough, caused by a strong south wind, and it 
was necessary for the ship to cast anchor about half a mile 
from Suez, and wait for the storm to subside and for morn- 
ing before entering the Suez canal. 

Suez is not much of a town. Numerous ships were 
passed and many were lying at anchor. The surrounding 
country is very sandy and barren. The sea was calm as we 
entered the canal at a very slow rate of speed. The Suez 
canal is a wonderful piece of work, and one of the greatest 
undertakings, if not in reality the greatest, in the world. It 
was completed in 1869, connecting the Red Sea with the 
Mediterranean. It was built at a cost of $130,000,000, The 
canal is about 100 miles long, 250 feet wide, and of sufficient 
depth to allow the largest ships to pass through without 
difficulty, thus saving in a voyage from Europe and America 
to India or China, from five to seven thousand miles in dis- 
tance, and about one month in time. 

The great mercantile importance of the canal is apparent 
from the following data. The distance from London to Bombay 
via the Cape of Good Hope, is 12,548 English miles; and via 
the Suez canal, 7,028 miles. The saving thus effected is 
forty-four per cent, of the distance. From Hamburg to 
Bombay, by the cape, it is 12,903 miles ; by the canal 7,383 
miles, a saving of forty-three per cent. From Triest to 
Bombay, by the cape, 13,229 miles; by the canal 4,816 miles, 
saving sixty-three per cent. From London to Hong Kong, 
by the cape, 15,229 miles; by the canal 11,112 miles, saving 
twenty-eight per cent. From Odessa to Hong Kong, by the 

10 



146 



AROUND THE GLOBE. 



cape, 16,629 miles; by the canal 8,735 miles, saving forty- 
seven per cent. From Marseilles to Bombay, by the cape, 
12,144 miles; by the canal 5,022 miles, saving fifty-nine per 
cent. From Constantinople to Zanzibar, by the cape, 10,271 
miles; by the canal 4,365 miles, saving fifty-seven per cent. 
From Rotterdam to the Sunda strait, by the cape, 13,252 
miles; by the canal 9,779 miles, saving twenty-six per 
cent. The passage of the canal, which is open to vessels 
of all nations, has been practicable both by day and by night 
since the introduction of the electric light. 




SUEZ CANAL. 

In 1890, 3,425 vessels of an aggregate burden of 9.749,129 
tons passed through the canal. 

The nationalities of the vessels traversing the canal in 

1890 were as follows: Aggregate tons. 

British ... - 2,522 vessels, 5,331,094 

German - - - - 275 vessels, 490,586 

French ----- 169 vessels, 365,903 

Dutch ----- 144 vessels, 284,511 

Italian ----- 87 vessels, 143,720 

Austrian - . - - 55 vessels, 118,047 

Other nationalities - 137 vessels, 192,233 



COUKSE or StJEZ CANAL. 147 

The number of passengers on board these vessels was 
about 156,000. 

The dues amount to $2. 00 per ton with an extra payment 
at present of 60 cts. per ton, $2.00 for each passenger, and 
$2.00 to $2.40 for pilotage according to the tonnage of the 
vessel. 

Many camels are seen starting out from Suez on their 
tours. Numerous natives, on the banks, follow the ship, 
crying for "Backshesh," a word used by the natives when 
begging for money or a gift, while the ship goes at the rate of 
about four miles per hour. Ships are not allowed to run 
faster than this rate of speed so as to avoid injury to the 
embankments caused by the motion of the water. The canal 
passes through Bitter lake, which Bruasch identifies as the 
Marah of the Bible where the waters were made sweet by 
casting a tree into them, when the children of Israel, under 
Moses, journeyed from Egypt to Canaan. Ex. 15:23. Before 
we entered Lake Timsah, we passed the foot of the Gebel 
Mary an, which an Arabian legend points out as the place 
where Miriam, when smitten with leprosy, for her disap- 
proval of the marriage of Moses with the Ethiopian woman, 
spent seven days outside of the camp of the Israelites. 
Num. 12. 

The canal enters Lake Timsah, or the crocodile lake, on 
the north bank of which lies the town of Ismalia. The lake 
is now about six miles in area, and of a beautiful blue color. 
Before the construction of the canal it was a mere pond of 
brackish water, and full of reeds. On the 18th of November, 
1862, the waters of the Mediterranean were let into this 
basin, which is traversed by two artificial channels for the 
passage of large vessels. While the channels were being 



i48 



AROUND THE GLOBE. 



constructed, this town was the central point of the work, and 
the residence of numerous officials and traders, so that its 
traffic soon became very considerable, and it has even been 
extolled by modern poets as a wonder of the desert, owing to 
the fact that the mail steamers between Cairo and the great 
Asiatic and Australian ports are beginning to desert the 
former route, via Alexandria, in favor of that via Ismalia, 

The climate is pleasant and the air dry, notwithstanding 
the proximity of the water. The ground, which has been 
reclaimed from the desert by means of irrigation, has been 
planted with tasteful gardens. 





KARNAK, EGYPT. 




CHAPTER XVIII. 
The Land of the Pharaohs. 

MIXED POPULATION — STREETS CROWDED — WATER CARRIERS- 
TURBANS— ORNAMENTS — VEILING OF WOMEN (SINGLE, 
MARRIED) — CHILD CARRYING — WATER FOUN- 
TAIN — MOSLEM'S PRAYER. 

OW we are in the land of the Pharaohs, the 
land in which the mighty works of God were 
wrought by the hands of Moses, His servant. 
Cairo is the largest city in Egypt, and also 
the seat of government. It is reached by train from Ismalia, 
a distance of ninety-seven miles. Nowhere do we see such a 
mixed population of about 400,000, consisting of Germans, 
Italians, Greeks, French, English. Austrians, Africans, 
Bedouins, Syrians, Persians, Indians, and others, while there 
is a host of visitors constantly moving, coming and going. 
Their object is mostlj; to visit the ancient Egyptian ruins and 
the many places of interest connected with the Bible. Many 
also come to this country from Europe and America to spend 
the cold winter months, as the climate is very mild and 
uniform, hence well calculated for invalids. 

Oriental life seems to feel the atmosphere of the newer 
quarters uncongenial, and it must therefore be sought for in 
the old Arabian quarters, which are still mostly inaccessible 
for carriages, notwithstanding the many new streets that 
have been of late years constructed in Cairo. Most of the 



152 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

streets in the old part of the town are still unpaved, and they 
are often exce^ssively dirty. The lanes separating the rows 
of houses in the Arabian quarters are so narrow that there is 
hardly room for two riders to pass, and the projecting 
balconies of the harems with their gratings often nearly 
meet. The busy traffic in these streets presents an inter- 
minable, raveled and twisted string of men, women and 
animals ; of walkers, riders, and carriages of every descrip- 
tion. Add to this the cracking of the drivers' whips, the 
jingling of money at the tables of the changers, established 
at almost every corner of the street, the rattling of the 
brazen vessels of the water-carriers, the moaning of the 
camels, braying of donkeys and barking of dogs, and you 
have a perfect pandemonium. 

Europeans, gentlemen and even ladies, may ride with 
perfect safety through the midst of all this confusion, and 
they will often have opportunities of observing most pictur- 
esque and amusing scenes. The denseness of the crowd 
seems sometimes to preclude the possibility of further prog- 
ress, but the hammar, or donkey-boy, is pretty sure to 
elbow the passage through without much difficulty. Lovers 
of the picturesque will find such rides very enjoyable. It is 
not, however, until the traveler has learned to distinguish 
the various individuals who throng the streets, and under- 
stands their different pursuits, that he can thoroughly appre- 
ciate his walks or rides. We will therefore give a brief 
description of some of the leading characteristics of the 
different members of the community. 

From a very early period it has been customary for the 
Arabs to distinguish their different sects, families, and 
dynasties by the color of their turbans. Green is the 



EGYPT.— COLOR OF TURBANS. 



153 



prophet's color. Green turbans, therefore, are the badge 
of the Sherifs, or descendants of the prophet, and they are 
also frequently worn by Mecca pilgrims. But the green 
turban is not much respected in Cairo, where it too often 
serves as an excuse for laziness ; many of the prophet's 
descendants now wear white instead. The Ulama, or clergy 
and scholars, usually wear a very wide and broad, evenly- 
folded turban of li^ht color. The orthodox length of a 




^Origuuil riioto.) 



ORIENTAL WOMEN VEILED. 



believer's turban is seven times that of his head, being 
equivalent to the whole length of his body, in order that the 
turban may afterwards be used as the wearer's winding sheet, 
and that this circumstance may familiarize him with the 
thought of death. The dress and turbans of the Copts, Jews 
and other non-moslem citizens are generally of a dark color, 
those of the Copts being blue and those of the Jews being 



154 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

yellow, in accordance with the decree issued in the 14th 
century. Blue is also the color indicative of mourning. 

The women of the lower and rustic classes wear nothing 
but a blue gown and a veil. Their ornaments consist of 
silver or copper bracelets, earrings and anklerings, while 
their chins, arms and chests are often tattooed with blue 
marks. In Upper Egypt noserings are also frequently seen. 
The women of the upper classes are never so handsomely 
dressed in the streets as at home. When equipped for riding 
or walking, they wear a light-colored silk cloak with very 
wide sleeves over their home attire. They also don the veil, 
which consists of a long strip of muslin, covering the whole 
of the face, except the eyes, and reaching nearly to the feet. 
Lastly, they put on the habara, a kind of 
mantle, which, in the case of married women, 
consists of two breadths of glossy black silk. 
Thus disguised, they look unnaturally broad 
and unwieldy, and not unlike bats. Young- 
girls usually wear a white mantle. The 
wealthier ladies, who drive in their carriages 
attended by eunuchs, usually veil their faces 
up to their eyes with thin gauze, in accord- 
^^^SSS^^ ance with the fashion of Constantinople. 
The figure of Egyptian women in early life is gen- 
erally upright and graceful. They color their eyelashes 
and eyelids dark, and their finger and toenails with henna, 
which gives them a brownish-yellow tint. Among other 
customs we may also mention the peculiar mode in which a 
woman carries her child— either astride her shoulder or rest- 
ing on her hip. With regard to circumcision, weddings and 
funerals, the ceremonies are similar in all the Egyptian towns. 




EGYPTIAN WATEE CAERIEES. 



155 




Amid this busy throng of men 
and animals resound the various 
cries of street venders and other 
persons who transact their business 
in the open air, and the warning 
shouts of runners, coachmen, 
donkey attendants and camel driv- 
ers. Donkeys and camels are very 
numerous, and each one has an 
attendant. One of the most 
popular characters to be met 
with in the streets of Cairo, as in most of the other Oriental 
towns, is the sakka, or water carrier, with his goatskin of 
water, carried by himself or by a donkey. This individual 
still carries on his trade, although the water works supply 
every house in the city, as well as every public place, with 
water. Many of the sakkas sell water to the people in the 
streets. These carry their supply of water either in a skin 
or in a large earthen vessel, on their backs. They offer 
drinks in a brazen saucer or cup to those passing by, for 
which they receive a small copper coin, but often times no 
payment at all is given. 

It is stated that on the occasions of 
festivals, and particularly on the birthdays 
of nobles and saints, persons who desire 
to do a pious work, frequently hire one of 
the sakkas to dispense water gratuitously. 
The sakka then shouts in a singing tone, 
'^ Sehil Allah ya atshan ya moyeh^'''' thus 
inviting all thirsty persons to drink 
without money or price, while he occasion- 




156 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

ally turns to his employer, who generally stands near 
him, with the w^ords, "God forgive thy sins," or "God 
have mercy on thy parents," to which the persons who 
have partaken of the water reply, "Amin," or Amen; or, 
"God have mercy on them and us." After numerous bless- 
ings of a similar kind have been exchanged, the sakka hands 
the last cup of water to his employer with the words, "The 
remainder for the liberal man." 

In Egypt, as in the Holy Lands, a supply of good water 
is a fortune. In Alexandria the water is not so good, and a 
wealthy man opened a fountain of good water free to all 
passers by, with this inscription thereon: "Ho, every one 
that thirsteth, come ye to the water, and he that hath no 
money, come ye, buy and drink without money and without 
price." * 

Places of interest are numerous, and as you go from one 
place to another you hear the voice of the imiezzms^ or 
priests, from the minarets or spires of the mosque. The 
rei)etition of prayers five times daily forms one of the chief 
occupations of faithful Moslems. The person praying must 
remove his shoes or sandals, and turn his face toward Mecca, 
as the Jews and some of the Christian sects turn toward 
Jerusalem or toward the East. They may be seen in their 
shops, on the streets, or wherever you go, engaged in prayer, 
quite frequently. They have many different positions and 
maneuvers to go through before their prayers are completed; 
and as one dragoman said, being one of their number, that 
if ever they were disturbed, or saw anyone laughing at them, 
they must commence again, as that was not good. How 
much we Christian people could learn of those who are far 

* Isaiah 55:1. 




(O) igiiKil PJioto.) 
3I0HAaiMEDANS PRAYING. 



Would you fear to have your windows open 

. Three times each day, 
If sinners saw that you were kneeling 
Three times to pray ? 

Would you otter up a bold petition, 

If well you knew 
That awful den of roaring lions 

Awaited you ? 

The lesson taught is not to otter 

A world-wide prayer: 
'Tis duty first, and then the promise 

Of heavenly care. 



i 



MOSLEM PEAYEES. 



159 



beneath us in light, knowledge and information regarding 
the one true God ! Their hours of prayer are : (1) A little 
after sunset ; (2) about one and one-half hours after sunset ; 
(3) daybreak ; (4) midday ; (5) afternoon, about one and one- 
half hours before sunset. 





CHAPTER XIX. 

Dervishes and the Tombs, 
dancing. and howling dervishes and mode of worship— 

CITIDEL — TOMBS OF THE MAMELUKES— KHALIFS MOSQUE 

OF SULTAN HASAN-TOMBS OF THE KHEDIVES-ISLAND 

OF ROIDA— COPTIC CHURCH— HOLY FAMILY 

SHELTERED— JOSEPH'S WELL — 

AMERICAN MISSION, 

''RIDAY is the usual .day when the Howling and 
Dancino; Dervishes are engaged in their peculiar 
and fanatical mode of religious worship. The 
dancing dervishes perform their Zikr, as they 
call it, within a circular space about thirty feet in diameter 
and enclosed by a railing, while on the outside of the railing 
is a space for visitors to stand, and on the left above us is a 
gallery enclosed with lattice work in which the women are 
enclosed. With slow, measured steps the shekh comes for- 
ward, followed by a dervish, and takes his seat on a carpet 
opposite the entrance. The other dervishes next enter the 
circle one after another, in the order of their age, wearing 
long gowns and conical hats. They walk solemnly up to 
their superior, make him a profound obeisance, kiss the hem 
of his robe, and take up their positions to his left. From the 
gallery is presently heard a rude kind of music, consisting 
of a single prolonged tone of a stringed instrument accom- 
panied by a flute and a voice rising and falling. Time is 



EGYPT.— DANCING DERVISHES. 



161 



beaten by a tambourine with great rapidity and vigor. The 
singer recites a hymn expressing the most ardent love of 
God. As soon as the singing ceases, the dervishes rise and 
walk in procession three times around the circle, headed by 
the shekh, each of them, including the shekh himself, mak- 
ing a low bow, in passing the spot from which the shekh has 
just risen. Then they resume their seats and the shekh with 
closed eyes, and in a deep, solemn voice, begins to murmur a 
prayer in which the word " Allah " alone is audible. When 
the prayer is over the dervishes divest themselves of their 




gowns, under which they wear a long, loose, light colored 
skirt or kilt, reaching down to their ankles, and a more 
closely fitting vest. They then present themselves before 
the shekh, each in his turn, making him a profound obei- 
sance, and begin to move slowly round in a circle. They 
turn on the left foot, propelling themselves by touching the 
waxed floor from time to time with the right. Most of them 
make about forty gyrations per minute, but some of them 
accomplish sixty and even more. The whole of the Zikr is 
performed by the dervishes noiselessly, with closed eyes, 
11 



162 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

and outstretched arms, the palm of one hand being turned up- 
wards and the other downwards, and their heads either thrown 
back or leaning on one side. During the dance soft strains 
of music arc heard, while the beat of the tambourine 
gradually accelerates, and the skirts of the performers fly 
out in a wide circle like an opened umbrella. The tones of 
the flute become more and more shrill until a signal is given 
by the shekh when the music ceases, the dancers stop, cross 
their arms over their chests, and resume their seats. The 
dance is performed three times by all except the superior. 
The latter, however, walks several times noiselessly through 
the midst of the dancers, who, although their eyes are closed, 
touch neither him nor one another. The whole service 
occupies about one hour. 

The howling or shouting dervishes perform their Zikr at 
Cairo, also on Friday, at another place. These dervishes 
take a standing position, swinging their heads backward and 
forward down to their knees, with their long hair swinging 
and switching, while every bow produces a groan, until they 
are almost exhausted, while some inferior music is heard, by 
which time is kept. At a certain notice all stop. Again 
they start, led by a leader, and so on. At other times they 
assume a kneeling or crouching position, with their heads 
and chests bent downwards. In this attitude they sometimes 
remain for hours, incessantly shouting the Mosleni confession 
of faith. It need not be added that the American and 
Christian travelers will find these performances unpleasing 
and indeed painful. 

Visits were made, in company with Rev. and Mrs. 
Hazen, from Boston, to the citadel, the tombs of the Mame- 
lukes, tombs of the Khalifs, the mosque of Sultan Hasan, 




(Original Photo.) 
RUINS OF THE TEMPLE OF DIA.NA, EPHESUS. 



"Away from the ruin! — Oh, hurry ye on, 
While the sword of the angel yet slumbers undrawn! 
Away from the doom'd and deserted of God — 
Away, for the spoiler is rushing abroad!" 

The warning was spoken — the righteous had gone, 
And proud ones of Sodom were feasting alone; 
All gay was the banquet— the revel was long, 
With the pouring of wine and the breathing of song. 



EGYPT.— ROYAL TOMBS. 



165 



built 777 years ago by himself, and who, when it was com- 
pleted, had the two hands of the architect cut off, so that he 
could not make another like it or better. The salary of the 
architect during the construction was £300 per day. 

The tombs of the Khedives of Egypt are enclosed 
in a large mosque, costly, grandly, and durably built, and 
the monuments and tombs are very richly finished with 
carvings and gilding. The floors are all covered with the 




PALM TREES, EGYPT. 

finest of Brussels carpets. The tombs are twentj'-four in 
number and all belong to the Royal family of Egypt. 

On Sunday, February 24th, in company with our friends 
we attended the American mission service and Sunday 
school which is apparently in a very prosperous condition, 
where many warmhearted men and women are engaged in 
teaching and instructing the lower classes in the ways of 



166 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

Christ and the Bible. It is a grand sight to see, in the differ- 
ent parts of the world, the children brought together and so 
nicely cared for by the Christian people of this and other 
nations. May the blessings of the Most High attend all 
the proper efforts that are put forth for the advancement of 
His cause and kingdom. 

The Island of Roida is one of the places which nearly 
every one would like to visit, as one of the noted places of 
the Bible. In a small boat we crossed the branch of the Nile, 
which landed us on the island. Traditions locate this as the 
place where Moses was taken by his mother and put into an 
ark of bulrushes, laying it in the flags by the river brink, and 
the daughter of Pharaoh came down to bathe and when she 
saw the ark amongst the flags, she had it brought to her. 
When she had opened it she saw the child and beheld that 
the babe wept; she had compassion on it, and said, " This is 
one of the Hebrew children," and she called his name Moses, 
she said, "because I drew him out of the waters." Moses 
was appointed of God as a great deliverer to lead His people 
out of bondage, and in childhood the Lord had made provis- 
ions for his escape. A short distance from the crossing to 
the island is the Coptic church, underneath which a narrow 
flight of twelve steps descends to the crypt, a small vaulted 
chapel under the choir, consisting of nave and aisles. At the 
end of the nave is an altar in the form of an early Christian 
tomb-niche, which tradition indicates as the spot where the 
Virgin and child reposed. We have no reason to believe 
that all these traditions are correct, or can be relied upon, 
but this we all know, that the Holy Family fled from Herod 
in the land of Judea for the saving of the child's life because 
Herod sought to destroy it, and, as the Lord had instructed, 




THE FLIGHT TO EGYPT. 



EGYPT.— JOSEPH'S WELL. 169 

they came to Egypt; so we have no reason to doubt that they 
were here, and were also sheltered and cared for. What 
thoughts and inspirations fill the heart and mind by coming 
to these places of sacred interest. 

The so called well of Joseph is a square shaft, sunk into 
the limestone rock to a depth of 280 feet, containing some- 
what brackish water, which is brought to the surface by 
means of the sakiyehs, or ICgyptian water wheels, one above 
the other, worked by oxen passing up and down a winding 
way cut around the well, in the solid rocks, with frequent 
openings to look out and down into the well. Since the 
completion of the new waterworks, however, the well has 
lost its former importance. When the citadel was con- 
structed here in the twelfth century, the builders discovered 
an ancient shaft filled with sand, which was caused to be re- 
opened and named after Joseph, Yusuf's or Joseph's well. 
This circumstance gives rise to the traditions which were 
chiefly current among the Jews, that this was the well into 
which the Joseph of the Scriptures was put by his brethren, 
and the story is still faithfully repeated by the dragomen. 
Others claim the well to have been constructed by Joseph 
previous to the great famine in Egypt, at which time Joseph 
was appointed to oversee and govern the country. 





CHAPTEK XX. 

The Pyramids, and Up the Nile, 

pyramids — sphinx — memphis— up the nile — avater wheels — 

working in the fields— necropolis— ramses ii.— sak- 

kara — apis tombs — sacred bulls— passage to 

the tombs — monster coffins — mari- 

ette — lasting impressions. 

HE Pyramids are the oldest and most w^on- 
derful Dionaments of human industry yd 
discovered. The Pyramids of Egypt form 
one of five groups of pyramids within the 
precincts of the Necropolis of the ancient city of Memphis. 
The exact time of their construction, as historians give it, is 
during the seventh centuiy, B. C, and may have extended 
till about the time of the Pharaohs. Even at that time the 
kings, as well as their subjects, seem to have preferred rock 
tombs to mausolea above ground. The Great Pyramid is 
called by the Egyptians "Khufu Khut," or the glorious 
throne of Khufu. The length of each side is now 750 feet ; 
the present perpendicular height is 451 feet ; the height of 
each sloping side is now 568 feet ; the stupendous structure 
covers an area of nearly thirteen acres. The ascent of the 
Pyramids, though fatiguing, is perfectly safe. There are a 
number of Bedouins in attendance there at all times, who, 
for a small fee, assist those who wish to ascend. Some make 
the ascent by the assistance of three men, one at either side 



EGYPT.— THE PYEAMIDS. 



171 



pulling by the hands, and one at the back pushins;. It is an 
experience that will not soon be forgotten. My friends, 
Rev. and Mrs. Hazen, did not undertake the laborious task 
of ascent. The sun shone very warmly, and the work of 
climbing was tiresome, as the steps are from two to three 
feet high. On the top there is a space of about twenty feet 
where a man can rest. The view from this elevated position 
is grand and striking, and fully repays one for the fatigue in 
gaining it. There is, possibly, no other place in the world 
from which life and death, fatality and desolation, are seen 
in so close connection and in such marked contrast. 




PYRAMID AND SPHINX. 

Looking west, and away from the Nile, we see glaring 
tracts of sand and many colorless monuments. On bare 
plateaus of rock stand the other Pyramids and the Sphinx, 
the latter rearing its head from the sand like some monster 
suffocated by the dust. To the south those of Sakkara will 
be seen, of which an account will be given hereafter. The 
descent of the Great Pyramid is more rapidly accomplished 
than the ascent, but is hardly less fatiguing. A visit to the 



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■^^^^^p 




^^^^&©J 



172 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

interior of the Great Pyramid is comparatively uninteresting 
to the ordinary visitor. The explorer has to crawl and 
clamber through low and narrow passages, which, at places, 
especially near the entrance, are not above three and one- 
half feet high and four feet wide. The stones on the floor 
are often extremely slippery, and the confined air smells 
strongl}^ of bats. 

The Sphinx, which, 
next to the Pyramidb 
themselves, is the most 
famous monument in 
this vast burial-ground. 
is hewn out of the nat 
ural rock, and, with 
some aid from artificial 
m a s o n r 3^, has been 
moulded into the shape 
of a recumbent lion, 
with the head of a man. f 
The body was left in a - 
rough form, but the head 
was originally most carefully executed. The entire height 
of this wonderful monument, from the crown of the 
head to the base upon which the fore legs of the lion 
rest, is said to be sixty-six feet. Not long ago the head, 
neck, and a small portion of the back were alone 
visible, but at this time the whole front part of the 
figure rises clear of the sand. The ear, according to Mariette, 
is four and a half feet, the nose five feet seven inches, the 
mouth seven feet seven inches in length, and the extreme 
breadth of the face is thirteen feet eight inches. If a person 




EGYPT.— THE SPHINX. 173 

stands on the upper part of the ear he cannot stretch his 
hand as far as the crown of the head, and the space between 
these points must have been greater when the head decora- 
tion, which, as well as the greater part of the beard, is now 
broken off, was still intact. There is a hollow in the head, 
into which one of the Arabs, if desired, will climb. The face 
was deplorably mutilated at a comparatively recent period 
by a fanatic, shekh, and afterward by the barbarous Mame- 
lukes, who used it as a target. It would appear, from 
Abdellatt's accounts, that it was in perfect preservation in 
his time. The face is very pleasing, and is of a graceful 
and beautiful type ; one might almost say that it smiles 
winningly. 

We also visited the ancient Memphis of the Bible, and 
the Necropolis in which the Egyptian dead were buried,^ 
including Sakkara and the Pyramids ; also the caves, vaults, 
and tombs almost beyond description. 

In company with other Americans, we took a small boat 
at Cairo and started up the river Nile, of which the Bible 
speaks so much, leaving the Island of Roida on our left, and 
going on toward Upper Egypt, a wide tract of level land on 
both sides of the river, which is overflowed in the wet season 
of the year. The river still divides and encircles a tract of 
land, forming islands. On the banks of the river many water 
wheels are seen, to which oxen, having their eyes tied shut 
with a cloth, are attached. It is claimed that the oxen, being 
thus blinded, need no one to drive or urge them. The water 
is drawn up and emptied into a ditch on the bank of the 
river, which carries it into the country for irrigation pur- 
poses. Many are seen drawing water by hand and pouring 

1 lIosea9:P). 



If4 



ABOUND THE GLOBE. 



it into ditches, while in other places canals have been dug for 
the purpose of carrying water into the country. The natives, 
working in the fields with their long Egyptian costumes, 
present a very interesting appearance. There are many palm 
groves to be seen. 

After going a distance of about twenty miles we leave 
the boat, and find there are plenty of donkeys and drivers in 




EGYPTIAN WELL NEAR CAIRO. 

readiness to convey the visitors to places of interest. A short 
distance from the river Nile we entered a shady palm grove 
strewn with blocks of granite, broken pottery and fragments 
of brick. This is the ancient site of Memphis, which is now 
very interesting from a historical point of view only. Were 
it not for the vast Necropolis to the west of the ancient city, 
no one would imagine that one of the most famous and 
populous capitals of antiquity had once stood here. 



EGYPT.— THE NECEOPOLIS. ill 

The Egyptians, from the earliest period down to the 
Roman imperial epoch, built their edifices, with the excep- 
tion of palaces and temples, of large sun-dried brick, made 
from Nile mud ; but even the public buildings of Memphis 
have entirely disappeared, as the stones were carried off in 
former centuries to build other edifices on the right bank of 
the Nile. The narrow streets of this city are said to have 
been half a day's journey in length, even down to the twelfth 
century. 

After a few minutes' walk further on we come to the 
Colossal Statues of Ramses II. The first of these, discovered 
a short time ago, is made of granite, and lies on its back on 
a slight eminence, so that in order to see the face it is neces- 
sary to climb to a position on the breast. Further on we 
reach the hut which conceals the Second Colossus, which 
historians claim was erected by Ramses II. after his victories 
over the people of the East. 

There are a number of holes and hollows near these 
statues, in which we observed remains of foundations, the 
most important of which is supposed to be the foundation of 
a temple of Ptah (Vulcan). 

The Necropolis, or grave-yard, of Sakkara contains 
sepulchral monuments of every kind, from the pyramid to 
the rock-hewn cavern, dating both from the ancient and 
the latter empire. Ancient writers have recorded that the 
pyramids at Memphis were eleven in number, of which many 
are no longer visible, while others may yet stand for many 
centuries. 

Amongst other sights are the Apis Tombs, of which we 
will give a short description and illustrations. In the subter- 
ranean part of the Egyptian Serapeum are the Apis Tombs, 

12 



178 



ABOUND THE GLOBE. 



hewn in the rock, where the Apis bulls were interred. The 
worship of Apis, or the sacred bulls, belongs to the religion 
of the ancient Egyptians. The sacred animals and the 
mixed forms, which generally consist of human bodies with 
the heads of animals, frequently recur as companions of the 
gods, or are used as emblems of the deities themselves. In 
each case those animals were selected whose inherent dispo- 
sitions and habits corresponded to the power or phenomenon 
of nature personified in the god. Specimens of these animals 
were kept in and near the temple, and the finest of them 
were embalmed after death, and revered in the form of 
mummies, with the belief that, like the soul of a man, the 
spirit of the deceased bull also was united with Osiris and 
became the Osiris Apis. The carcass was solemnly interred 
in a special vault. 

Among other animals was the cow, represented as the 
patient mother and nurse ; the goddess of love, the bride 
of Ptah, was represented with the head of a fierce lion or a 
cat ; the crocodile was sacred to Sebek, the god who caused 

the water of the Nile to rise; 
and the hawk, which soars to- 
ward heaven like the sun, was 
dedicated to Ra. The symbol 
of Ptah was the black Apis bull, 
whose great power of generation 
seemed analagous to the never- 
ceasing creative energy of the 
black soil of Egypt. While 
there are many tombs to which 
we might refer, we will call 
the attention of the reader 




EGYPT.— THE APIS TOMBS. 179 

to but one of the many. The passages to the Apis Tombs, 
which are now open to visitors, have an aggregate length of 
380 yards, and are about ten feet in width and seventeen and 
one-half feet in height. Passing through the gateway we 
enter a chamber of considerable dimensions, with niches of 
various sizes in the bare limestone walls bearing inscriptions 
which have yielded much valuable information. Visitors 
light their candles here. The guide now proceeds toward 
the right. After taking a few steps we observe at our feet 
a huge block of black granite, which once formed the lid of a 
sarcophagus (or coffin, as we would call it). A little further 
beyond this we reach an enormous granite sarcophagus which 
so nearly fills the passage that there is just room to pass it 
on the right side. This passage is flanked with the side 
chambers, about twenty-six feet in height, the pavements 
and vaulted ceilings of which are constructed of excellent 
Mokattain stone. Twenty-four of the chambers still contain 
the huge sarcophagi, in which the Apis mummies were 
deposited. Each of these monster coffins consists of a single 
block of black or red polished granite, or of limestone, and 
averages thirteen feet in length, seven feet in width and 
eleven feet in height, and no less than sixty-five tons in 
weight. The covers, five of which are composed of separate 
pieces of stone cemented together, have, in several instances, 
been pushed to one side, and on the top of some of them the 
Arabs, for some unexplained reason, have built rude masses 
of masonry. All the sarcophagi, when discovered by 
Mariette, had been emptied of their contents, with the 
exception of two, which still contained a number of trinkets. 
Much more could be added to the subject, but we will give 
the words of the fortunate man who first excavated them. 



180 



AROUND TBfE GLOBE. 



"I confess," says Mariette, "that when I penetrated for 
the first time, on the 12th of November, 1851, into the Apis 
vaults, I was so profoundly struck with astonishment that 
the feeling is still fresh in my mind, although five years have 
elapsed since then. Owing to some chance, which it is diffi- 
cult to account for, a chamber which had been walled up in 
the thirtieth year of the reign of Ramses II. had escaped the 
notice of the plunderers of the vaults, and 1 was so fortunate 




INTERIOR OF THE APIS TOMBS. PRINCIPAL PASSAGE. 



as to find it untouched. Although 3,700 years had elapsed 
since it was closed, everything in the chamber seemed to be 
precisely in its original condition. The finger-marks of the 
Egyptians, who had inserted the last stone in the wall built 
to conceal the doorway, were still recognizable on the lime. 
There were also the marks of naked feet imprinted on the 
sand which lay in one corner of the tomb chamber. Every- 
thing was in its original condition in this tomb, where the 
embalmed remains of the bull had lain undisturbed for thirty- 



EGYPTIAN FINGER MARKS. 



181 



seven centuries. Many travelers would think it terrible to 
live here alone in the desert for a number of years, but such 
discoveries as that of the chamber of Ramses II. produced 
impressions compared with which everything else sinks into 
insignificance, and which one constantly desires to renew." 




i 




CHAPTER XXI. 

Museum of Gizeh and Heliopolis. 

MUSEUM — EGYPTIAN COLLECTIONS— COFFINS — MUMMIES-DIFFERENT 
NECROPOLES— ANCIENT JEWELRY — ORNAMENTS — OBELISK 
OF HELIOPOLIS — VIRGIN AND CHILD HID — PALM 
TREES — LAND OF GOSHEN — CANALS — RAIL- 
ROAD CUT. 

HE museum of Gizeh is about three miles from 
the principal part of the city, and is one of 
the most remarkable places to visit in all 
Egypt, as the museum of Egyptian antiqui- 
ties is the most valuable collection of the kind in existence. 
Its value is much enhanced by the fact that the place where 
the various objects were discovered is in nearly every case 
precisely known. 

All kinds of coffins and mummies and other antiquities 
are seen here, of which we will describe only a few. Here 
are the coffins and mummies of five kings dated 1591 B. C, 
and others of even an earlier date; and statues dated 3000 
B. C. To the surprise of all, these coffins and statues appear 
quite new, and are in a well preserved condition, the mum- 
mies, which are dry and hard, showing their features remark- 
ably well. It is a wonderful place in which to spend hours 
or even days, in viewing the remains of ancient kings. 

In the middle of room V. is a sarcophagus, in red gran- 
ite, of Prince Hubaif of Memphis, (2840 B. C.) while others 



EGYPT.— HELIOPOLIS. 183 

date back to 3800 B. C. These relics were taken out of the 
great excavations made in Egypt, from the tombs and caves 
of the different necropoles. 

The jewels of Queen Aah-hotep, mother of Aahnies I. , 
(1600 B. C.) found with the mummies of the queen at Drah 
Abu'I Negga (Thebes) in 1860 A. D., consist of bracelets of 
gold, double-hinged bracelets, necklace of gold, gold chains, 
gold boats, boats and crews of silver, dagger and sheath of 
gold, golden breastplate, mirror, anklets, armlets and many 
other valuable things. We saw also the ornaments of the 
Princess Hathor dated 2000 B. C. , as well as thousands of 
other objects of interest. 

0, what thoughts and wonders these things awaken in 
the mind of man ! While traveling in that ancient country 
so much may be seen of which the new world knows nothing; 
and, indeed, when we compare the new and old worlds, 
they are to each other as a young child to an aged man of 
great experience. 

Many things from Bible times may be seen, and many 
questions, to which the Scriptures frequently refer, can be 
settled in the mind and heart of man. 

HELIOPOLIS, OR THE CITY OF ON. 

1, in company with others, took the train and made a 
visit to Heliopolis, or the city of On. In Gen. 41:45 we 
are informed that Pharaoh gave Joseph to wife Asenath, the 
daughter of Poti-pherah, priest of On. Here we visited 
the Obelisk of Heliopolis, also the tree of the Virgin, and the 
well where Joseph, Mary and the child stopped. The tree, 
a sycamore, is not the original one, but one planted in its 
place in the year 1672. It measures about ten feet by three 
feet, is irregular in shape and considerably decayed ; yet thej 



184 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

branches are green and seem to thrive. At this place, accord- 
ing to tradition, the Virgin and child once rested under its 
shade during the flight from Herod, and there is another tra- 
dition to the effect that the persecuted Mary concealed her- 
self with the child in a hollow of the trunk and that a spider 
so completely covered the opening with its web as to screen 
her effectually from observation. The garden is watered by 
means of a reservoir fed by springs. 

We will now call the reader's attention to the land of 
Goshen, to which the Bible refers so frequently, and in 
which the children of Israel dwelt, after Joseph finally be- 
came ruler of Egypt, having previously been sold by his 
brethren to the merchantmen for twenty pieces of silver. 

And they "brought Joseph into Egypt," but Joseph 
grew up and found favor with God, and was endowed with 
wisdom so that he could interpret the dreams of the Butler 
and^Baker, and also the dreams of Pharaoh, whereupon he 
found great favor in the sight of the king, "and Pharaoh 
said unto Joseph, Forasmuch as God hath shewed thee all 
this, there is none so discreet and wise as thou art: thou shalt 
be over my house and according unto thy word shall all my 
people be ruled: only in the throne will I be greater than 
thou. And Pharaoh said unto Joseph, See, I have set thee 
over all the land of Egypt." ^ And Joseph went out, "and he 
gathered up all the food of the seven years, which were 
in the land of Egypt, and laid up the food in the cities: 
the food of the field, which was round about every city, 
laid he up in the same." ^ 

"And the famine was over all the face of the earth: " 
and Joseph opened all the storehouses, and sold, because the 

^Gen. 41:39— 41. 2Qen. 41:48. 



JOSEPH I:N EGYPT. 185 

famine was so sore in all lands. "And Joseph's ten brethren 
went down to buy corn in Egypt," for the famine was in the 
land of Canaan, and Joseph made himself known to his 
brethren and kissed them and wept upon them, and after that 
his brethren talked with him. 

And it pleased Pharaoh, and Pharaoh said unto Joseph, 
" Say unto thy brethren. Take your father and your house- 
holds, and come unto me: and I will give you the good of the 
land of Egypt. "^ And the sons of Israel took Jacob, their 
father, and their children, and their wives; and they took 
cattle and their goods which they had gotten in the land of 
Canaan, and came into Egypt, Jacob and all his seed with 
him. ^ And Pharaoh spoke to Joseph saying, "The land of 
Egypt is before thee, in the best of the land make thy father 
and thy brethren to dwell ; in the land of Goshen let them 
dwell." ' 

So the land of Goshen is the land in which the brethren 
and their posterity dwelt. "And thou shalt dwell in the land 
of Goshen, and thou shalt be near unto me, thou, and thy 
children, and thy children's children, and thy flocks, and thy 
herds, and all that thou hast;"* but in a later passage the 
sacred records mention the cities in Goshen in which the 
Israelites were compelled to work at the tasks imposed on 
them by Pharaoh. "Therefore they did set over them task- 
masters to afflict them with their burdens, and they built for 
Pharaoh treasure cities, Pithom and Raamses." ^ 

The land of Goshen is located north-east of Cairo, and 
about eighty miles from Cairo are the ruins which mark the 
site of the Pithom of the Bible, where the Jews served in 
hard bondage. 

iGen. 45:15— 18. 2Gen.46:5— 6. ^ Gen. 47 : 6. * Gen. 45 : 10. ^Ex.l:!!. 



186 



AROUND TitE GLOBE; 



The country is very fertile and well cultivated, and is 
intersected by many irrigating canals. There are also many 
wells and water-wheels to be seen. It is sad to think the 
children of Israel were once enslaved in this beautiful coun- 
try ; but by the strong hand of God they were delivered, and 
we can much more rejoice that the way to liberty is now 
open for all who are in spiritual captivity, and that we can 
go and possess the land promised by God. 

The palm groves and the green crops are growing here, 
while just beyond is the barren sandy desert, where the sand 
drifts like snow in our country. The railroad company has 
a force of men constantly at work keeping the cuts open, 
which would otherwise be drifted full of sand in a compara- 
tively short time. 

We are now near the seaport, and we look back upon the 
land of Egypt once more, and then bid adieu, passing on 
toward the Promised Land. 





CHAPTER XXII. 

Port Said, Egypt, to Joppa, Palestine. 

HISTORY — SAILING FOR JOPPA — LAND IN VIEW — JOPPA SEA PORT — 
PASSPORT — HOTELS— HOUSE OF SIMON, THE TANNER — PLAIN 
OF SHARON — FLOWERS AND PRODUCTIONS — RAIL- 
ROAD — STATIONS — ORANGE GROVES- 
JERUSALEM— CONFUSION. 

ORT SAID is a town of about 37,000 inhabitants, 
and its origin is due to the Suez Canal. The 
new railroad and the increase of navigation 
through the canal make it a prosperous town. 
At this place the ship calls, on her way to Joppa and other 
Mediterranean points. 

On the 7th day of March we were sailing toward the 
Holy Land. The sea was very calm ; the moon and stars 
were shining very brightly while we were moving along on 
the great sea, so often referred to in the Bible. On the 
south of us land was seen, and along that coast was the old 
Egyptian and Damascus road. 

The first sight of the Holy Land was Joppa, where so 
many interesting Bible lessons occurred. The ships anchor 
about one-half mile out in the sea from Joppa, on account of 
the very shallow and rocky harbor. The scenery is beautiful 
from the ship, the town lying in front of us on a hill. 

The launch boats were all around the ship to convey the 
passengers to the shore, while the water was raging and the 



188 AEOIJ^^D THE GLOBE. 

small boats pitching and rolling so that it seemed almost 
impossible to land. A reef of sharp, jagged rocks, over 
which the sarf breaks fiercely, runs parallel -with the shore. 
A narrow opening admits boats to the harbor inside. The 
calling and chatting of the natives in their boats, while their 
agents come and go for their passengers, make it very 
lively. The advice to all is, "Give yourselves into the hands 
of the boatmen," while they stand below, on the little boats, 
which are rocking, swinging and tossing in such an uneasy 
manner that it takes help for one to get into them ; but one 
after another was caught hold of by the boatmen until all 
were safely aboard their little crafts, and in a short time we 
were all on the shore. 

Calls were made for passports, and the custom officers 
were at work inspecting the baggage and giving permits. 
Soon we were all landed at the Jerusalem Hotel, about 
thirty-five in number, mostly Americans. 

A rich, fertile plain stretches for twelve miles inland, 
and then a range of hills bound the view. Joppa was always 
the seaport of Jerusalem, and it was here that Hiram, King 
of Tyre, sent the wood to King Solomon that was cut out of 
Lebanon, for the building of the temple, ^ and from here 
it was taken to Jerusalem. From Joppa Jonah also went 
into a ship, and paid his fare, and fled from the presence of 
the Lord ; ' but the Lord invariably follows those that would 
flee from Him. As the sea became very boisterous, and fear 
came upon all, they began to cast forth the wares, that were 
in the ship, into the sea, to lighten it of its burden. But 
Jonah was fast asleep. So the master came and said unto 
him, "What meanest thou, O sleeper? Arise, call upon thy 

i2Chron. 2:16. 2joj,ahl:3. 



STOKr OF JONAH. 191 

God." And they said one to the other, "Come and let us 
cast lots, that we may know for whose cause this evil is upon 
us." So they cast lots, and the lot fell upon Jonah. And 
Jonah humbly acknowledged and said unto them, "I am an 
Hebrew, and I fear the Lord, the God of heaven, which hath 




JONAH AND THE WHALE. 

made the sea and the dry land." And they were exceedingly 
afraid, and said unto him, "What shall we do unto thee, 
that the sea may be calm unto us? " And Jonah said, "Take 
me up and cast me forth into the sea, so shall the sea be calm 
unto you." Nevertheless, the men rowed hard to bring the 



192 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

ship to the land, but they coald not. So they took up Jonah 
and cast him forth into the sea, and the sea ceased from her 
raging. But we find the Lord had prepared a great fish 
to swallow Jonah ; and Jonah prayed unto the Lord, and the 
Lord heard him, ' as He always will, and the Lord spake 
unto the fish, and it vomited Jonah out upon the dry land. ^ 
What a lesson this ought to teach everyone— not to flee from 
what the Lord requires of us, but humbly to yield obedi- 
ence! He, as a wise parent, will not require more of us 
than we are able to perform. 

At Joppa the widows stood weeping, and showing the 
coats and garments which Dorcas had made while she was 
yet with them. ' " And they called for Peter, who put them 
all forth, and kneeled down and prayed, and turning him to 
the body said unto her, Arise. And she opened her eyes ; 
and when she saw Peter, she sat up." This is a very good 
example. If we are in distress or in sickness, the apostle 
says, "Is any sick among you, let him call for the elders of 
the church ; and let them pray over him, anointing him with 
oil in the name of the Lord : and the prayer of faith shall 
save the sick, and the Lord shall raise him up ; and if he have 
committed sins, they shall be forgiven him." ^ 

On the shore stood the house of Simon the tanner, to 
which we made a visit. Here Peter was taught by a vision 
that Jewish exclusiveness must come to an end, and that 
henceforth he should call nothing common or unclean. ^ 

Here Napoleon Bonaparte infamously shot four thousand 
Turkish troops, who had surrendered as prisoners of war. 

The population of Joppa is about eight thousand, but 
indications point to an increase. The plain of Sharon lies 

' Jonah 2: 1. -' jonah 2: 10. ^Acts 9: 36-43. * James 5: 14-15. ^Acts 10: 1-18 



THE PLAIN OF SHAEOK. 195 

along the coast north of Joppa. It is famed for its fertility 
and beauty. Its fields bear rich harvests. Groves of oranges, 
lemons, olives and palms are interspersed with many vine- 
yards, and in spring, in many places, it is covered with a 
profusion of flowers. Indeed, the blossoms and the flowers 
of various kinds send forth a perfume which is very invigor- 
ating, in connection with the pleasant climate and the sea 
breeze. In Solomon's Song of songs we find the expression, 
"I am the rose of Sharon,"^ in which the rose is used as 
a symbol to express the highest ideal of grace and beauty. 
Now " Sharon is like a wilderness." ^ A few years ago there 
were only a few wretched hamlets of mud huts on the entire 
plain. But it will not be so always; once more "Sharon 
shall be a fold for flocks." ' 

RAILWAY TO JERUSALEM. 

This railway, fifty-four miles in length, was opened in 
1862. We heard it proclaimed in Jerusalem that it was the 
fulfilling of the prophecy in Isa. 35:8. "And an highway 
shall be there, and a way, and it shall be called The way of 
holiness. " This we consider an erroneous idea. The prophet 
has reference to the blessings of the gospel and the entire 
deliverance from sin, through the cleansing power of His 
precious blood. There are five stations between Joppa and 
Jerusalem. Crossing the plain of Sharon, the first station is 
Lod, the Lydda of the New Testament, situated among the 
palms. Here the Apostle Peter healed Eneas of the palsy. * 
The next station is Ramleh, where there are not less than 
twelve square miles of orange groves. 

The Jerusalem station is two thousand four hundred and 
thirty-five feet above the sea level. Hence the railroad rises 
1 Song of Solomon 2:1. ■ Isa. 33. ^ Isa. 65 : 10. ♦ Acts 9: 33-35. 



196 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 

rapidly as it approaches the holy city. It is constructed on 
the narrow gauge plan, and the journey occupies about three 
hours. At this season the trains are packed to their utmost 
capacity, as there are many visitors, tourists and pilgrims 
from all countries, especially pilgrims from Europe, who 
come by the thousands. Many go afoot from Joppa to 
Jerusalem, others on donkeys and in carriages ; we went on 
a special train. We went up toward the holy city, around 
curves and through mountains, until at last we caught the 
first glimpse of the city. Oh, what impressions crowd the 
mind, making one feel as though he should bow to everyone, 
and pull off his shoes before entering ! As the train came up 
slowly around the curve, with the leper hospital and the 
German colony in view, we arrived at the station, where the 
first of the Jerusalem life is seen. We did not feel well at 
the time, being weary, and could scarcely realize that we 
were in the "Land of Christ." The crowding and soliciting 
of the natives and hackmen.is very confusing. When an 
individual first arrives, seeing the country and towns, hills 
and valleys, orange and olive groves, vines and fig trees, and 
alleys, walls, houses and temples, donkeys, camels, carriages 
with two horses attached to them and loaded to their 
utmost with anxious visitors and pilgrims, natives driving 
like madmen, and a hard-looking class of people howling, 
screaming and talking, without knowing what is said, 
crowding the sidewalks with donkeys and everything else 
imaginable, and then thinking of it as the most holy city, the 
hills and streets, in which our beloved Savior lived, walked 
and died, the memory of which is so dear to every Christian 
child, it makes an impression that is beyond the power of 
language to describe. 




O when, thou city[of my God, 

Shall I thy courts ascend, 
Where congregations ne'er break up, 

And Sabbaths never end ? 

When shall these eyes thy heav'n-built walls 

And pearly gates behold ? 
Thy bulwarks with salvation strong. 

And streets of_shining gold ? 



A PLEASANT ACQUAINTANCE. 



199 



I was very fortunate in meeting Mr. John C. Mack, 
of Bristol, Conn., U. S. A., and to join him as a room-mnto. 
Mr. Mack is a dear Christian man, and our pleasant visits, 
and the acquaintance which we formed, shall never, 1 trust, 
be forgotten. We found a good home in a hotel, with a 
family in the German colony, which was very satisfactory ; 
charges, five francs per day, equal to one dollar of United 
States money. 

The weather was cool and quite rainy, and being weary 
and worn, I did not expose myself to the wet and cold 
weather, as the changes are great going from India to Egypt 
and Palestine. Sunday, March 10th, the weather was cool 
and wet; Mr. J. C. Mack and myself, for the first time, 
(Mitorod the Jaffa gate. 





CHAPTER XXIII. 

Jerusalem and its History. 

visitor's first impression— interest grows— JERUSALEM NOT A 

PLACE OF AMUSEMENT— KING DAVID'S REIGN— CHARACTER 

OF THE CITY — ANCIENT WALLS — MOUNT ZION — 

SOLOMON'S REIGN — THE CITY BEAUTIFIED 

—JERUSALEM DESTROYED AND 

REBUILT. 

ERUSALEM, to most travelers, is a place of 
overwhelming interest; but at first sight 
many will be sadly disappointed in this dirty 
modern town, with its crooked and badly 
paved lanes. It would seem, at first, as though little were 
left of the ancient city of Zion and Moriah, the farfamed 
capital of the Jewish empire. It is only by patiently pene- 
trating beneath the modern crust of rubbish and rottenness, 
which shrouds the sacred places from view, that the visitor 
will at length realize to himself a picture of the Jerusalem 
of antiquity, and this will be the more vivid in proportion to 
the amount of previously acquired historical information 
which he is able to bring to bear upon h^s researches. The 
longer and the oftener he sojourns in Jerusalem, the greater 
will be the interest with which its ruins will inspire him, 
though he will be obliged to confess that the degraded aspect 
of the modern city, and its material and moral decline, form 
but a melancholy termination to the stupendous scenes once 
enacted here. 



JERUSALEM.— ITS HISTORY. 201 

The combination of wild superstition with the merest 
formalism which everywhere forces itself upon our notice, 
and the fanaticism and jealous exclusiveness of the numerous 
religious communities of Jerusalem, form the chief modern 
characteristics of the city, the holy city, once the fountain- 
head from which the knowledge of the true God was wont to be 
vouchsafed to mankind, and which has exercised the suprem- 
est influence on religious thought throughout the world. 
Jerusalem is therefore not a town for amusement, for every 
thing in it has a religious tinge, and from a religious point of 
view the impressions the visitor receives here are anything 
but pleasant. The native Christians of all sects are by no 
means equal to their task ; the bitter war which rages 
amongst them is carried on with very foul weapons, and the 
contempt with which the orthodox Jews and Mohammedans 
look down on the Christians is only too well deserved. 

When they conquered the country the Israelites found 
the Jebusites settled among the mountains of this district, 
Jebus, afterward the site of Jerusalem, being their capital. 
From the natural strength of its position the town was be- 
lieved to be impregnable. We are informed very briefly that 
this Jebus was at length captured by King David. ^ The in- 
habitants, trusting to the strength of their city, derided the 
Israelites; but David took the city and established himself in 
the " Stronghold of Zion." 

What then was the precise situation of this holy Mt. 
Zion? In order to answer this question we must first exam- 
ine the topographical character of the city. The city was 
surrounded by deep valleys. Towards the east lay the valley 
of the Kidron, afterwards called the valley of Jehoshaphat, 

1 2 Sam. 5 : 6—10. 



202 AKOUND THE GLOBE. 

and on the west and south sides, the valley of Hinnom. 
These two principal valleys enclosed a plateau, the north 
side of which bore the name of Bezetha, or place of Olives ; 
and olive groves are still to be found in that locality. 

On the south half of this plateau lay the city of Jerusa- 
lem, which was divided into diflFerent quarters by natural 
depressions of the soil. The chief of these natural boundaries 
was a small valley coming from the north, running at first 
south by south-east, and then due south, and separating two 
hills, of which that to the west now rises 105 feet above the 
precipitous east hill. This valley was called the Tyropoeon 
(cheese-makers' valley or better, valley of dung). 

On the south terrace of the east hill, where, to the south- 
cast of the present Haram, lay the Ophel quarters, as well as 
on the other hill to the west of the Tyropoeon, extended the 
ancient Jerusalem as far as the brink of the valley. The city- 
wall crossed the Tyropoeon at its mouth far below. On the 
south side of the west hill (where there are now no houses) 
there was as early as David's time that part of the town 
which Josephus calls the Upper City. North-east of this 
quarter, opposite the hill of the temple, probably lay the 
bastion Millo ("Filling up"). 

Such are the undisputed facts. The questions which 
now arise are: what were the names of these hills, and what 
was the site of the ancient buildings? 

In the first place, the site of the ancient temple must 
certainly have been on the east hill. The name Moriah for 
this hill of the temple occurs exceptionally in Gen. 22:2, and 
then in 2Chron. 3:1, as a specifically religious appellation. 

There are numerous passages in the Bible which prove 
that down to a late period the hill of the temple was included. 



THE HOLY CITY. 205 

in the more popular name of Zion. This accounts for the 
frequent mention of the glory of Zion in the poetical books, 
for it was there that the temple stood. On the other hand, 
Zion is frequently used as synonymous with the city of 
David, ^ and is even poetically applied to Jerusalem itself, 
(Daughters of Zion). 

Solomon began to beautify the city in a magnificent 
style, and above all, he erected on Mount Zion a beautiful 
palace and sanctuary. In order, however, to procure a level 
surface for the foundation of such an edifice, it was necessary 
to lay massive substructions. The temple of Solomon occu- 
pied the north part, the site of the upper terrace of the 
present day, on which the Dome of the ilock now stands. 

The work begun by Solomon was continued by his suc- 
cessors, who constructed a more spacious precinct around the 
temple on ground which must have been artificially leveled 
for the purpose. The royal palace rose immediately.^ 

During his reign, Jerusalem first became the headquar- 
ters of the Israelites, and it was probably then that this new 
city in the north sprang up which he surrounded with forti- 
fications. The glory of Jerusalem as the central point of the 
united empire was, however, of brief duration and it shortly 
afterwards became the capital of the southern kingdom of 
Judah only. 

As early as Rehoboam's reign, the city was compelled to 
surrender to the Egyptian king Shishak, on which occasion 
the temple and palace were despoiled of part of their golden 
ornaments. 

About one hundred years later, under King Jehoram, 
the temple was again plundered, the victors on this occasion 

1 2 Sam. 5:7; 1 Kings 8:1. '^ Ezek. 43:7, 8. 



206 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 

bein^ Arabian and Philistine tribes.' Sixty years later, Je- 

hoash, the king of the northern empire, having defeated 

Amaziah, king of Judah, effected a wide breach in the wall 

of Jerusalem and entered the city in triumph.^ Uzziah, the 

son of Amaziah, re-established the prosperity of Jerusalem. 

During this period, however, Jerusalem was visited by a 

great earthquake. 

Again the fortifications were repaired by Hezekiah,^ to 

whom also was due the great merit of providing Jerusalem 

with water. The solid chalky limestone on which the city 

stands contains little water. The only spring at Jerusalem 

was the fountain of Gihon on the east slope of the temple 

hill. 

1 2Chron. 21:17. - 2 Kings 14:13— 14. ^ 2Chron. 32:5. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

Jerusalem, from Hezekiah's Reign to the Present Time. 

jews carried into captivity — soloilon — treasures stolen 

from temple and carried to babylon — temple burned — 

jews return — destruction and bloodshed — herod 

captured the city — the city enriched — time 

of christ — was taken by the persians — fell 

to the egyptians — saladin captured 

the city — kharezmians took it by 

storm — under turkish rule. 

EZElilAH, on the whole, reigned prosperously, 
but the policy of his successors soon involved 
the city in ruin. In the reign of Jehoiachin, it 
was compelled to surrender, at discretion, to 
King Nebuchadnezzar. 

Again the temple and the royal palace were pillaged, 
and a great number of the citizens, including King Jehoia- 
chin, the nobles, 7,000 house owners, 1,000 craftsmen and 
their families, were carried away captive to the East. ' 
Those who were left, having made a hopeless attempt under 
Zedekiah to revolt against their conquerors, Jerusalem now 
had to sustain a long and terrible siege (one year, five months 
and seven days). Pestilence and famine meanwhile ravaged 
the city. The Babylonians now carried off all treasures that 
still remained, the Temple of Solomon was burned to the 

' 2 Kings 24 : 15. 




208 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 

around, and Jerusalem reduced to the abject state of 
humiliation, so beautifully described by the author of the 
Lamentations, particularly in chapter 2. Jerusalem, how- 
ever, was permitted to recover, to some extent, when the 
Jews returned from captivity, but it was not till the time of 
Nehemiah, the favored cup-bearer of the Persian king, 
Artaxerxes Longimanus, that the city was actually rebuilt. 

But, alas ! it was in the time of Antiochus Epiphanes 
that it again became a theatre of bloodshed. The inhabitants 
were slain, Jerusalem was destroyed, and a stronghold was 
established in the city by Antiochus for himself. Many 
struggles had to be undergone before this national restor- 
ation "was consolidated, and frequently the Jews were com- 
pelled to capitulate by hunger alone ; and in one struggle 
no less than 12,000 Jews are said to have perished. 

Thirty-seven years before Christ, Herod, with the aid of 
the Romans, captured the city against a gallant defense. 
Under Roman rule Jerusalem became well fortified, and 
was rebuilt, so that with its numerous palaces and handsome 
edifices, the sumptuous temple with its colonnades, and the 
lofty city walls with their bastions, it must have presented a 
very striking appearance ; and in picturing to ourselves the 
rebuilt city,' we see numerous villas standing in beautiful 
gardens, some of which were probably very handsome 
buildings. 

Such was the character of the city in the time of Christ. 
We learn from the New Testament that especially on the 
occasion of festivals the city was crowded with people. At 
the time of a certain festival it is said the Roman governor 
caused the counting of the paschal lambs, and found the vast 
total to be 270,000. From this we may infer that the number 



JERUSALEM.— ITS HISTORY. 200 

of partakers was no less than 2,700,000. Although these 
figures, like many of the other statements of Josephus, are 
probably much exaggerated, they at least tend to show that 
the great national festival was attended by vast crowds. 

In 614, A. D. , Jerusalem was taken by the Persians, and 
the churches destroyed, but it was soon afterward restored, 
chiefly with the aid of the Egyptians. In 969 Jerusalem fell 
into possession of the Egyptian Fatimites. Under their 
rule the Christians were sorely oppressed. Money was 
extorted from the pilgrims, and savage bands of Ortokides, 
or Turkish robbers, sometimes penetrated the churches of 
Jerusalem and maltreated the Christians during worship. In 
1187 Saladin captured the city, treating the Christians, many 
of whom had before this fled to the surrounding villages, 
with great leniency. In 1244 the Kharezmians took the 
place by storm, and it soon fell under the supremacy of the 
Eyyubides. Since that period Jerusalem has been a Moslem 
city. In 1517 it fell into the hands of the Osmans. 

In 1800 Napoleon planned the capture of Jerusalem, but 
gave up his intention. In 1825 the inhabitants revolted 
against the pasha on account of the severity of the taxation, 
and the city was, in consequence, bombarded by the Turks 
for a time ; but a compromise of the disputes was effected. 
In 1831 Jerusalem submitted to Mohammed Ali Pasha, of 
Egypt, without much resistance ; in 1834 a revolt of the 
Bedouins was quelled ; and in 1840 Jerusalem again came into 
possession of the Sultan Abdul-Mejid, and is at the present 
time under Turkish rule. 




14 



CHAPTEK XXV. 
Solomon's Temple. 

CITY WALLS — POOLS — HOUSES" — STREETS — CLIMATE — ITS WATER 
SUPPLY — POPULATION — MOSQUE OF OMAR OR SOLOMON'S 
TEMPLE— MOUNT MORIAH— ROCK IN INTERIOR— FROM 
WHERE CHRIST DROVE THE CHANGERS — ABRAHAM 
AND MELCHIZEDEK SACRIFICING — WELL OF 
SOULS — GOLDEN NAILS — BLOWING THE 
TRUMPET — CALLING TO JUDGMENT — 
WIRE ROPE ACROSS THE VALLEY- 
VAULTS— STABLES OF SOLOMON. 

ERUSALEM is enclosed by a wall thirty-six 
and "a" half feet in height, with thirty-four 
towers, forming an irregular quadrangle 
about two and a half miles in circumference. 
Seen from the Mount of Olives, Jerusalem presents a hand- 
some appearance. The town possesses a few open spaces; 
the streets are illpaved and crooked, many of them being 
blind alleys, and are very dirty, especially after a rain. 

In the walls there are eight gates, but one of them has 
been walled up: (1) Yafa gate; (2) The New gate, opened in 
1889; (3) The Damascus gate; (4) Herod's gate; (5) St. 
Stephen's gate; (6) The Golden gate, which has long since 
been walled up; (7) Dung gate; (8) The gate of Zion. 

As Jerusalem possesses no springs except the pool of 
Siloah {Ain Silwan) and Hammam esh-Shifa, or healing 




JEEUSALEM.— ITS INHABITANTS. 213 

bath, supposed to have been the pool of Bethesda, the in- 
habitants obtain their supply of water from cisterns, the 
roofs of the houses and every available open space beinof 
made to contribute the rain that falls upon them. Owing to 
the scarcity of wood the houses are built entirely of stone. 
The court with cisterns forms the central point of each group 
of rooms. A genuine Jerusalem dwelling house consists of a 
number of separate apartments, each with an entrance and a 
dome shaped roof of its own. Some houses have flat roofs, 
but under these is always concealed a cupola. The cupolas 
do not spring from the tops of the walls, but a little within 
them, so that it is possible to walk round the outside of the 
cupolas. Pots and troughs for flowers are built into the roof 
and courts by the architects. In some of the houses there 
are no glass windows; nor are chimneys by any means univer- 
sal, the charcoal smoke being in their absence allowed to 
escape by the doors and windows. The floors are composed 
of stone or hard cement. 

The climate, on the whole, is healthy. The fresh sea 
breeze tempers the heat even during the hot months; at night 
there is frequently a considerable fall of temperature. The 
cistern water, too, is good and not in the least unhealthy 
when the cisterns are kept clean. The water in the cisterns 
certainly gets very low towards autumn and the poorer 
classes then have recourse to water from the pools. According 
to the usual estimate, the population numbers about 40,000, 
according to statistics of 1887 about 43,000. Of these about 
7,560 are Moslems, 28,000 Jews, 2,000 Latins, 150 United 
Greeks, 50 United Armenians, 4,000 Orthodox Greeks, 510 
Armenians, 100 Copts, 75 Ethiopians, 15 Syrians, and 300 
Protestants. The different nationalities are distinguished by 



214 



ABOUND THE GLOBE. 



their costun e. The number of Jews has greatly risen of late 
years in consequence of the persecation in Roumania and 
Russia. The immigration steadily increases, both of those 
who desire to be baried in the holy city and of those who 
intend to subsist on the charity of their European brethren, 




from whom they receive their regular allowance, and for 
whom they pray at the holy places. 

A VISIT TO Solomon's temple. 

The Haram esh-Sherif (Mosque of Omar) is one of the 
most profoundl}^ interesting spots in the world. It was 
about this spot where David erected an altar. ^ It was to this 
place also that the Lord said to Abraham, "Take now 

12 Sam. 24:25. 



JERUSALEM.— SOLOMON'S TEMPLE. 215 

thy son, thine only son Isaac, whom thou lovest, and get 
thee into the land of Moriah."^ It was here that Abraham 
prepared the altar and, when the Lord found him true and 
obsdient, that the angel called unto him out of heaven, and 
said, "Abraham, Abraham," and he said "Here am I." 
The angel then said, " Lay not thine hand upon the lad, 
neither do thou anything unto him; for now I know that thou 
fearest God, seeing thou hast not withheld thy son, thine 
only son, from me." O what a thought to know that you 
stand where God so often manifested Himself on various 
occasions. 

This is the place where David had determined to have 
the temple built for the Lord by his son Solomon, the king. 
For this purpose it was necessary to la}^ substructions on the 
slope of the hill, especially on the east (valley of Jehosha- 
phat), south (valley of Hinnom), and west (valley of Tyro- 
poeon) sides in order to procure a level surface. 

A company of us, six in number, with our dragoman, 
entered an archway where on both sides were openings 
like those of many oriental shops. This archway looks very 
ancient, and the dragoman stated, "This is the place from 
whence Christ drove the buyers and sellers," saying "It is 
written, 'My Father's house shall be a house of prayer,' but 
ye have made it a den of thieves." The large space within 
the enclosure, covered with buildings, forms a somewhat 
irregular quadrangle. The west side measures 536 yards, the 
east side 518 yards, the north side 351 yards, and the south 
side 309 yards in length; the surface is not entirely level, the 
north-west corner being about ten feet higher than the 
north-east and the two south corners. 

' Gen. 22:2. 



216 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

We now proceed to the description of the Holy Rock as 
it is called. It is fifty-seven feet long, forty-three feet wide, 
and rises about six and a half feet above the surrounding 
pavement. According to Jewish tradition, Abraham and 
Melchizedek made sacrifices here, and it was regarded as the 
central point of the world. The ark of the covenant is said 
to have once stood here. The probability is that the great 
sacrificial altar stood here, and traces of a channel for 
carrying off the blood have been discovered on the rock. 
The place is shown where Zacharias was offering and also 
where he was slain. 

The guide knocks on a round stone plate almost in the 
middle of the floor ; there is evidently a hollow underneath. 
The Moslems maintain that beneath this rock is the well of 
souls, where the souls of the deceased assemble to pray twice 
weekly. 

A number of noted places are referred to by Moslems. 
In front of the north entrance there is let into the ground or 
floor a slab of jasper into which Mohammed is said to have 
driven nineteen golden nails ; a nail falls out at the end of 
every epoch, and when all are gone the end of the world will 
arrive. We were carefully led there by the accompanying 
Moslem, kneeling down and pointing with his finger to this 
spot, repeating foreign words and saying to us, " Now all 
those that pay bakhshish on this stone will then go to 
heaven and those who will not] pay will not go to heaven ; " 
also claiming that from this place the great trumpet of God 
will be blown for all to come to judgment. 

Every step is of great interest to them at that place, and 
while they are the followers of Mohammed, they honor Christ 
as a prophet. 




((Jritjiii'fi l'ii(,t< 
INTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE OF OMAK. 
(Showing the traditional rock upon which Isaac was offered.) 



I look upon the holy mount 

Where Israel'^ father stood 
Long years ago, at God's command,' 

To offer guiltless blood. 
On this " Jehovah-Jireh" mount 

In later years arose 
God's holy temple, Israel's joy 

And strength midst all her woes. 
And in that temple, on that mount, 

Did Zacharias stand 
To olfer holy sacrifice 

At the divine command. 



THE VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT. 219 

A little further on we find a stair ascending to the top 
of the wall, which affords an admirable view of the valley of 
Jehoshaphat with its tombs immediately below, and of the 
Mt. of Olives. We find here the stump of a column built 
in horizontally and protruding over the wall. A small build- 
ing has been erected over the inner end, for prayer. 

The Moslems say that all men will assemble in the valley 
of Jehoshaphat when the trumpet blast proclaims the last 
judgment. From this prostrate column a thin wire rope will 
then be stretched to the Mt, of Olives opposite. Christ will 
sit on the wall, and Mohammed on the Mount, as judges. 
All men must pass over the intervening space on the rope. 
The righteous, preserved from falling by their angels, will 
cross with lightning speed, while the wicked will be precipi- 
tated into the abyss of hell. 

Descending thirty-two steps, we enter a small Moslem 
oratory, where a horizontal niche, surmounted by a dome 
borne by four small columns, is pointed out as the "Cradle 
of Christ," under which name it was also known in mediaeval 
times. In pre-Islamic times the Basilika Theotokos (of the 
Mother of God) or Maria Nova was here. This curious 
tradition seems to have been founded on an old custom of 
Hebrew women who came hither to await their confinement. 
According to the legend, this was the dwelling place of the 
aged Simeon, and the Virgin spent a few days here after the 
Presentation in the Temple. 

From this point we descend into the spacious substruc- 
tions, which the Arabs attribute to the agency of demons, 
but which in their present form are of no great antiquity. 
They consist of semicircular vaults about twenty-eight feet 
high, resting on one hundred square piers, chiefly composed 



220 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

of ancient drafted stones, and are an imitation of similar 
older substructions which once occupied the same spot. Tra- 
dition calls them Solomon's Stables, and there may be some 
true foundation for the name, for the palace of that monarch 
was probably somewhere in this neighborhood. 

Many Jews sought refuge in the subterranean vaults dur- 
ing their struggle against the Romans, and there is other 
evidence that substructions of this kind existed at an early 
period in this corner and the stables of the Frank kings and 
of the Templars were here, and the rings to which they at- 
tached their horses still exist. The vaults extend ninety-one 
yards from east to west and sixty- six yards from north 
to south. There are altogether thirteen vaults of unequal 
length and breadth. Thus a few of the many items have been 
given. The arch work, the columns, and space underneath 
are almost beyond description. The illustration of Solomon's 
Stables will give the reader some idea of their appearance. 

It is but a few years since it was death for a Christian 
to enter this great Mosque of Omar ; but now any one can be 
admitted on payment of a small fee, the feet being covered 
with large slippers. The general appearance of the temple is 
fascinating, and a great deal of mosaic work is seen. Fre- 
quently the dragoman points to certain parts which are 
claimed to be from the original temple of Solomon. Here is 
given what was observed, and what traditions say, and truly 
the words of Christ are confirmed in our minds, where He 
says, as He went out of the temple, "Seest thou these great 
buildings? there shall not be left one stone upon another that 
shall not be thrown down." There are, however, on and 
around the mountain, traces left of the extent and grandeui: 
of the buildings which once adorned its crest. 




{Original I'hoto.) 



STABLES OF SOLOMON. 




CHAPTER XXVI. 

Calvary and Tomb of Christ. 

jews" wailing place— chanting— immense stones— GOLGOTHA- 
GROTTO OF JEREMIAH — THE CROSS CONQUERED THE WORLD 
— DEAREST SPOT ON EARTH — RENT IN THE ROCK — 
CONSOLING ANGEL — TURKISH OFFICIALS- 
DIFFERENT CHAPELS — DECORATION. 

OMING around the outside wall and turning- 
down a narrow lane leading to the left, we 
reach the wailing place of the Jews (see illus., 
p. 175), situated beyond the miserable dwell- 
ings of the Moghrebins. The celebrated wall which bears 
this name is fifty-two yards in length and fifty-six feet in 
height. The lowest nine courses of stone consist of huge 
blocks, some of which, however, are drafted. Above these 
are fifteen layers of smaller stones. Some of the blocks, 
many of which have sufi'ered much from ex-posure, are of 
vast size, one in the north part of the wall being sixteen feet, 
and one in the south part thirteen feet in length. It is 
probable that the Jews, as early as the middle ages, were in 
the habit of gathering hither to bewail the downfall of 
Jerusalem. 

This spot should be visited repeatedly, especially on a 
Friday after 4: o'clock, when a touching scene is presented by 
the figures leaning against the weather-beaten wall, kissing 



224 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

the stones, and weeping. The men, many of them barefoot, 
often sit here for hours, reading their Hebrew prayer-books. 
The Spanish Jews, whose appearance and bearing are often 
refined and independent, present a pleasing contrast to their 
squalid brethren from Poland. 

On Friday, towards evening, the following lines are 
chanted : 

1. Leader, For the palace that lies desolate. 
Response. We sit in solitude and mourn. 

2. L. For the palace that is destroyed, 
R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 

3. L. For the walls that are overthrown, 
R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 

4. L. For our majesty that is departed, 
R. Wo sit in solitude and mourn. 

5. L. For our great men who lie dead, 
R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 

6. L. For the precious stones that are burned, 
R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 

7. L. For the priests who have stumbled, 
R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 

8. L. For our kings who have despised Him, 
R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 

Another chant is as follows : 

1. Leader. We pray Thee, have mercy on Zion ! 
Response. Gather the children of Jerusalem. 

2. L. Haste, haste. Redeemer of Zion ! 
R. Speak to the heart of Jerusalem. 

3. L. May beauty and majesty surround Zion ! 
R. Ah ! turn Thyself mercifully to Jerusalem. 

4. L. May peace and joy abide with Zion ; 

R. And the branch (of Jesse) spring up at Jeru- 
salem. 




' 'J'V ^ I I ' > V' 

'A 'M^-^-fi 



MO fcwiniiiiii II 




CHURCH Ol' THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 



GOLGOTHA. 227 

Leaving the place of wailing, we pass immense blocks of 
stone, one seven and one-half feet thick and eighteen feet 
long, now situated ten feet above the ground ; another 
is twenty-six feet long, and still another twenty-seven and 
one-half feet long. This is very remarkable, although it is 
sometimes difficult to distinguish the joints from clefts 
caused by age. 

THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE, AND GOLGOTHA. 

The Bible says that Golgotha (see illus. , p. 105) lay outside 
the city. ' "Now when they were going, behold some of the 
watch came into the city, and showed unto the chief priests 
all the things that were done." Golgotha was an eminence, 
or perhaps only a small rocky elevation, called, on account 
of its peculiar shape, "skull." To the north and south of 
the place pointed out by tradition the ground drops gradu- 
ally. The first point of controversy, among many, is whether 
the genuine Golgotha lay in this neighborhood or not. 
Several modern explorers look for Golgotha to the north of 
the city, near the grotto of Jeremiah, As there is much 
written on this subject, we can only present the arguments 
advanced by others in support of the authenticity of the sites. 

No one can doubt for a moment that the early disciples 
and apostles were acquainted with the place of their Master's 
death and burial ; and many of those who were with Him on 
His triumphal entry into the city but a short time before His 
crucifixion, must certainly have known the site of Golgotha. 

There were many in Jerusalem at this time, and a few 
weeks after His death, at the remarkable event of the out- 
pouring of the Holy Ghost, there were three thousand 

1 Matt. 28:11. 



228 AKOtIND THE GLOBE. 

witnesses, and others daily, added to the church. There 
never was a time when there was not a Christian community 
in the city, and can any one suppose that during this period, 
when the religion of the Cross was conquering the world, 
and thousands from distant lands were visiting the holy city, 
the locality of Calvary and the tomb of Jesus could be 
forgotten ? It is true that during the siege of Titus many of 
the Christians took flight beyond the Jordan, and others 
took refuge in the caves and rock tombs along the Kedron ; 
there were, however, many aged, and sick, and poor, who 
remained in the city. Eusebius says that not more than half 
the population left, and most of those who left returned 
immediately after the siege was over. But can it be supposed 
that in this brief interval of less than five months, the place 
before all others dear to them would be lost sight of so easily ? 

There is not a spot on earth so dear to the Christian 
heart as Mount Calvary, where the Lord was crucified, 
surrounded by a howling mob. While there were a few of 
His beloved following Him to behold what was to take place, 
the others were scattered like sheep without a shepherd. O, 
the place where the Lamb of God was nailed to the rugged 
cross, which was raised up and dropped into its socket ! 
Innocent as He was, yet He was placed between two thieves. 
The sun lost its light, the heavens darkened, the earth 
quaked, while He cried out with a loud voice, saying, ' ' My 
God, my God, why hast Thou forsaken me ? " The Father 
had not forsaken Him, but it was that the great plan of 
human redemption might be completed for you and me, my 
dear reader. 

And Jesus, when He had cried again, gave up the ghost. 
And behold, the vail of the temple was rent in twain, the 














?.:V*. . 










THE CHUECH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 231 

earth quaked, the rocks rent, and the graves were opened 
Many of those who had slept arose and came out of their 
graves, ^ and all acknowledged, saying, "Truly this was the 
Son of God." 

Oh, my readers, that sacred spot (Mount Calvary) should 
be dear to you all, because there the plan of redemption was 
settled forever, when He cried, "It is finished ! " All may 
come to Him and be saved. 

This is the place where He was taken from the cross by 
Joseph and laid in his own tomb with the greatest respect 
and honor, as the one that would draw all the world to Him- 
self ; there were many dear ones from the city, and John, 
to whom the Lord committed the care of His mother, follow- 
ing Him. 

By removing a slab, our attention was called to a rent in 
the rock underneath, which it is claimed was caused by the 
earthquake at the time of the crucifixion. We were also 
shown the spot and socket wherein the cross stood, together 
with a part of the stone that was rolled upon the tomb. 

This is also designated as the place where the women 
came early in the morning to see the sepulchre. And behold 
there was a great earthquake, for the angel of the Lord 
descended from heaven and came and rolled away the stone 
from the door, and sat on it. And the angel so kindly and 
affectionately said unto the women, "Fear not ye: for I 
know that ye seek Jesus, which was crucified." And Mary 
stood without at the sepulchre, weeping ; and as she wept 
she stooped down, longing to know where He was. She saw 
two angels, which said unto her, "Woman, why weepest 
thou ? " Oh, how often does the angel come to you and me, 

' Matt. 27. 



232 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

in the hour of grief and distress, to comfort and console ! 
She answered, "Because they have taken away my Lord." 

Oh, what a heart of humility, of meekness and tender- 
ness, is shown by this dear Christian woman, out of whom 
the Lord had cast seven devils ! ^ How true the words of 
the Lord, "To whom much is forgiven, the same loveth 
much." 

It is an unpleasant fact that Moslem officials, appointed 
by the Turkish government, sit in the vestibule of the Church 
of the Holy Sepulchre, built on this site, for the purpose 
of keeping order, particularly on Easter occasions, among 
Christians (as they are called). Pilgrims come from all parts 
of the world, and yet the presence of such a guard is abso- 
lutely necessary, so completely does jealousy and fanaticism 
usurp the place of true religion in the minds of many of these 
visitors to the holy city. 

The church is divided into many different chapels and 
departments, some of which are: 1, The Church of the 
Apostles, so-called, with the altar of Melchizedek ; 2, Chapel 
of the Sacrifice of Isaac ; 3, Chapel of St. James, where 
stands the tree in which the ram is said to have been 
entangled ; 4, Chapel of St. Mary of Egypt ; 5, Greek Chapel 
of St. James ; 6, Chapel of Mary Magdalene ; 7, Chapel of 
the Forty Martyrs ; 8, Post of the Moslem Officials ; 9, Stone 
of Anointment ; ^ 10, Place from which the women witnessed 
the anointment ; 11, Angels' Chapel ; 12, Chapel of the Sep- 
ulchre ; 13, Chapel of the Copts ; 14, Chapel of the Syrians ; 
15, Chamber in the Rock ; 16, Passage to the Coptic Monas- 
tery ; 17, Passage to the Cistern ; 18, Cistern ; 19, Ante- 
chamber of next chapel ; 20, Chapel of the Apparition ; 21, 

'Mark 16:9. ^john 19:38-40. 



CHUECH OF THE HOLY SEPQLCHRE. 



233 



Latin Sacristy ; 22, Catholicon ; 23, Centre of the World ; 
24, First seat of the Patriarch of Jerusalem; 25, Second seat; 
26, Aisle of the Church of the Crusaders ; 27, Chapel (Prison 
of Christ); 28, Chapel of St. Longinus; 29, Chapel of Part- 
ing of the Raiment ; 30, Chapel of the Derision ; 31, Chapel 
of the Empress Helena ; 32, Altar of the Penitent Thief ; 33, 
Altar of the Empress ; 34, Seat of the Empress ; 35, Chapel 
of the Finding of the Cross ; 36, Chapel of the Raising of the 
Cross ; 37, Hole of the Cross ; 38, Chapel of the Nailing to 
the Cross ; 39, Chapel of the Agony ; 40, Abysinian Chapel. 
All these different departments being decorated with 
pictures and paintings, lights, lamps and curtains, make a 
very solemn impression ; and while thousands visit this place 
and show it the greatest reverence by removing their shoes, 
and kissing the stones on which they walk, others roam 
around without showing any respect whatever. While we 
sincerely deplore the ignorance and fanaticism of these 
people, we also admire the zeal and honesty of many that 
come from distant lands, spending much time and money to 
make a pilgrimage to the holy city at least once in their 
lifetime. 





CHAPTER XXYII. 

Easter in Jerusalem. 

excitikg scenes— easter festival— grand mass— good friday- 
HOLY FIRE — IMMENSE CROWDS-CHURCH ILLUMINATED — 
FIGHTING AND ACCIDENTS— ROUGH MANNERED 
OFFICIALS — WILDEST CONFUSION — 
TURNING SOMERSAULTS. 

E were permitted to spend about six weeks in 
and about Jerusalem, which time included 
Easter. Many painful sights were witnessed 
that were enacted by the so-called Christians 
as well as the Mohammedans while holding their great feasts. 
The worst of all is the scene of the holy fire for a description 
of which Baedeker is quoted: — 

"During the Festival of Easter, the Church of the 
Sepulchre is crowded with pilgrims of every nationality, and 
there are enacted, both in the church and throughout the 
town, many disorderly scenes which produce a painful im- 
pression. The ecclesiastical ceremonies are very inferior in 
interest to those performed at Rome. 

In former times, particularly during the regime of the 
Crusaders, the Latins used to represent the entry of Christ 
riding on an ass from Bethphage, but this was afterwards 
done in the interior of the church only. Palm and olive- 
branches were scattered about on the occasion, and to this 
day the Latins send to Gaza for palm branches, which) are 



THE HOLY riEE. 235 

consecrated on Palm Sunday and distributed among the peo- 
ple. On Holy Thursday, the Latins celebrate a grand mass 
and walk in procession round the chapel of the Sepulchre, 
after which the 'washing of feet' takes place at the door of the 
Sepulchre. The Greeks also perform the washing of feet, but 
their festival does not always fall on the same day as that of 
the Latins. Good Friday is also celebrated by the Francis- 
cans with a mystery play, the proceedings terminating with 
the nailing of a figure to a cross, and the Greeks still have a 
similar practice. 

One of the most disgraceful spectacles is the so-called 
miracle of the Holy Fire, in which the Latins participated 
down to the sixteenth century, but which has since been man- 
aged by the Greeks alone. On this occasion the church is 
always crowded with spectators. Strangers are admitted to 
the galleries, which belong to the Latins. The Greeks declare 
the miracle to date from the apostolic age, and it is mentioned 
by the monk Bernhard as early as the ninth century. Khalif 
Hakim was told that the priest used to besmear the wire by 
which the lamp was suspended over the sepulchre with resin- 
ous oil, and to set it on fire from the roof. Large sums are 
paid to the priests by those who are allowed to be the first to 
light their tapers at the 'sacred flame sent from heaven. The 
wild and noisy scene begins on Good Friday. The crowd 
passes the night in the church in order to secure places, some 
of them attaching themselves by cords to the sepulchre, 
while others run round it in anything but a reverential 
manner. 

On Easter Eve, about 2 p. m., a procession of the superior 
clergy moves round the Sepulchre, all lamps having been 
carefully extinguished in view of the crowd. Some members 



236 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

of the higher orders of the priesthood enter the chapel of the 
Sepulchre, while the priests pray and the people are in the 
utmost suspense. At length, the fire which has come down 
from heaven (?) is pushed through a window of the Sepul- 
chre, and there now follows an indescribable tumult, every 
one endeavoring to be the first to get his taper lighted. In 
a few seconds, the whole church is illuminated. This, how- 
ever, never happens without fighting, and accidents generally 
occur owing to the crush. The spectators do not appear to 
take warning from the terrible catastrophe of 1834:. On that 
occasion, there were upwards of 6,000 persons in the church, 
when a riot suddenly broke out. The Turkish guards, think- 
ing they were attacked, used their weapons against the pil- 
grims, and in the scuffle that followed about 300 pilgrims 
were suffocated or trampled to death. — Late on Easter Eve, 
a solemn service is performed ; the pilgrims with torches 
shout Hallelujah, while the priests move round the Sepulchre 
singing hymns." 

During these exciting ceremonies the guards and soldiers 
are on duty. When the pilgrims make a sudden rush in 
their excitement, no respect whatever is shown by the guards, 
who, having whips with long lashes, strike the crowd over 
the heads. One aged lady was seen to weep like a child be- 
cause of the severe treatment she had received in this way. 

Arrangements must be made with some of the guides or 
priests for admission, or the probability is that nothing can 
be seen or heard. We occupied a position in the gallery, 
and all the available space was occupied by a densely packed 
crowd. 

During the time previous to the coming of the holy fire 
the wildest confusion prevailed ; there was singing, shouting, 




(Original Photo.) 
INTERIOR OF THE COENACULUM, ENTERING THE UPPER ROOM, 



That doleful night before His death, 

The Lamb, for sinners slain, 
Did, almost with His latest breath, 

That solemn feast ordain. 
O tune our tongues, and set in frame 

Each heart that pants for Thee, 
To sing, "Hosanna to the Lamb, 

The Lamb that died for me." 

—J. Hart. 



HOLY FIRE CEREMONIES. 239 

and yelling beyond description. The people stood very 
close together. During the most intense excitement six 
men climbed upon the shoulders of others and formed a 
circle by putting their arms around each other's necks ; soon 
two others mounted the shoulders of the six ; from this posi- 
tion they turned somersaults upon the heads of the crowd 
below. The people in return threw and pushed them pro- 
miscuously about upon the heads of others, all of them yell- 
ing, shouting and singing: Ha! O! Ho! Ho! Ho! Ha! O! Ho! 
Ho! Ho! 

The noise and confusion as well as the danger was most 
alarming to those who had never before witnessed these 
scenes. The crowd was apparently completely exhausted, and 
the air was foul and heated. It would seem to the intelli- 
gent mind that such scenes and doings do not belong to the 
worship of the Most High God. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

Missions, and Jewish Passover. 

missions— german and english services— jewish passover- 
two million souls— passover services in every house- 
messiah comes — wine and unleavened bread — 
greek foot-washing— latin foot-washing— st. 
stephens' gate— pool of bethesda— via 
dolorosa — ecce homo arch — house 
of dives — bathing the 
stones with tears. 

URING our stay in the holy city several mis- 
sions were attended, which are indeed worthy 
of encouragement and support. The one called 
^ Jerusalem and Hebron Mission is under the 
charge of Mr. and Mrs. Murry, Europeans. Mr. Murry is 
a dear Christian brother, and has his work at heart. He is 
ably supplemented by his wife, who, although blind— not 
able to see with her natural eyes— goes from place to place 
without much difficulty, and earnestly pleads for all to come 
to Christ. We spent some time with them in their home 
and mission. 

We also attended a mission at Jerusalem, conducted by 
D. C. Joseph, who labors principally among the Jews. Mr. 
Joseph, being a converted Jew himself, takes great delight 
in laboring among his own people. It being our first visit 
here, we were requested to preach to the Jews, to which we 








POOL OF SILOAM. 



THE JEWISH PASSOYEE. 243 

responded, preaching twice — once in the English and once in 
the German language, as they understood the German rather 
better than the English. The Jews, in their simple way of 
being open-hearted, stepped up to me and said, '''' Danke 
ineri fir euren guten rath. Danke fir den guten rath.'''' May 
the Lord bless these dear young Jewish people in Jerusalem, 
is my prayer. 

PASSOVER. 

The time had come for the Jewish passover,^ it being 
the 8th day of April, and the day after Christ made His 
triumphal entry into Jerusalem with 2,000,000 souls, accord- 
ing to Josephus. 

This is a time of great importance in Jerusalem, and, on 
an invitation from a Jewish family, with others from the 
mission, one of whom was Mr. R. Poweck, we attended these 
services. Going down through the Jewish quarters we heard 
a peculiar noise, and on inquiry, found that in every house 
services were being held according to the instructions in the 
Bible. 

They have books in the Hebrew language, out of which 
they read. The father of the family which had invited us 
to be present at their services could speak the English 
language quite well, and translated for us the most important 
parts, stating that the book gave the history of the great 
delivery of Israel from bondage, besides containing some 
prayers. 

A table was set in the middle of the room, with three 
wine glasses thereon ; these were filled, and one of them 
removed to the farther side of the table, with the statement 
that it belonged to Elias, who would come before the Messiah 

1 Exodus 12:18. 



244 ABOUND TfiE GLOBE. 

came. They also have uuieavened bread — nothing but flour 
and water, with bitter herbs, and boiled eggs. Then reading 
in their books of God's dealings with them, and of His com- 
mand to them to keep this Passover, they drink of the wine 
in the two glasses. Thus they read four times, and continue 
to drink wine. They had no lamb at this service, but meat 
to represent the lamb, and also the head of a fowl, to show 
that a sacrifice had been made. They then ate boiled vegeta- 
bles, fish and soup, doing away with knives and forks, simply 
using their fingers. There was no prayer offered, and all 
seemed to be indifferent and uninterested. Previous to this 
feast their houses are cleansed, and all the clothing and 
dishes are either new or thoroughly cleansed. 

There was something sad connected with this service, 
knowing that the Jews were the appointed people of God, 
but were left and forsaken, and thus they lament their sad 
condition. A Jew told me that they were forsaken by God, 
and that they never see a really peaceful day. I told him 
that was not the case, that God had done all ; they left God 
and rejected His Son Jesus Christ, and they, with all others, 
must repent and come back to God. But they believe that 
God will yet send the Messiah and restore Jerusalem, and 
gather them into their own land. 

GREEK FEET-WASHING. 

April 11. — During the Easter festivals feet-washing is 
observed by the Greeks, and also by the Latins. This was a 
very interesting service to us. In front of the Church of the 
Holy Sepulchre there is a yard in which a platform was 
erected, on which sat the patriarch and the twelve chosen 
ones, to represent the twelve disciples, one of the twelve to 
represent Peter and one to represent Judas. The one who 




[Oi-iginal Photo.) 
GREEK CEREMONY OF FEET WASHING. 



FEET-WASHING. 247 

takes the part of Judas usually betrays himself by his looks. 
After reading the Scripture lesson, the Greek partriarh, 
representing Christ, went a short distance with three of his 
pretended disciples, and knelt down, as though in prayer, 
under an olive tree, planted there for the occasion. After a 
few minutes he returned to the stage, and taking off his 
garment washed and afterward kissed the feet of those on 
the stage with him. The one representing Peter at first 
hesitated and then refused to submit to such an act on the 
part of his lord, but finally was persuaded to yield. 

The vessel which was used in this ceremony was rich in 
its appearance; and the water, after being used, was put into 
small bottles that were handed in, and given out by those 
on the platform to their friends, for which favor they un- 
doubtedly were well paid, as there was quite a struggle 
among those who wished to obtain some of it. The patri- 
arch, with a bunch of hyssop, sprinkled the vast assemblage 
with the water that remained. 

After the feet had been washed, the patriarch put on his 
robe and sat down and talked to those whose feet he had 
washed, as the Scripture teaches that Christ did. 

In the afternoon the Latins held their feet-washing in 
the interior of the church. This seems to be a very popular 
service amongst these ancient Christians, but in these days 
of progression there are many Peters that hesitate, and even 
some that ridicule this ceremony; but Jesus says, "1 have 
given you an example, and as I have done, so ye also ought 
to wash one another's feet." 

The spirit of humility that Mary possessed did not need 
any urging as she sat at His feet washing them with the 
tears that fell from her eyes, and wiping them with the hair 



248 



AROUND THE GLOBE. 



of her tiead. O, what a lesson of humility and an example 
for all Christians to imitate in the fear of the Lord! Jesus 
says, "If ye know these things, happy are ye if ye do 
them." 

FROM THE 
PRISON TO 
CALVARY. 

Saint Ste- 
phen's gate is 
no called from 
the fact that 
it was near 
here that 
Stephen was 
stoned to 
death. On 
the outside 
of the gate, 
over the en- 
trance, are 
two lions 
hewn in stone 
in half-relief. 
Within the 
gate a door- 
way immedi- 
ately to the 
right leads to 
the church of 

St. Anne, descending to a crypt, which is almost entirely 
hewn in the rock and consists of two parts, the second of 




Must Jesus bear the cross alone, 
And'all the world go free '^ 

No! (there is a cross for every one, 
And there is a cross for me. 



FiiOM THE PRISON TO CALVARY. 249 

which resembles a cistern. This was formerly a sanctuary 
with altars, and is said by tradition to have been the dwelling 
of St. Anne, and the birthplace of the Virgin. 

To the north-west of the church is the pool of Bethesda. 
In this pool there was virtue to heal when the water was 
stirred by the angel; and Jesus saw a man there which had 
an infirmity thirty and eight years. And He said unto him, 
for He knew that he had been in that condition for a long 
time, "Wilt thou be made whole?" Jesus then saith unto 
him, "Rise, take up thy bed and walk,"' and immediately 
the man was healed. 

Passing the Chapel of the Scourging, and going a few 
steps further we are in front of the barracks, and here begins 
the Via Dolorosa, or the Street of Pain, the route by which 
Christ is said to have borne His cross to Golgotha. The 
present barracks occupying the site of the ancient castle of 
Antonia, are said to stand on the ground once occupied by 
the Pretorium, the residence of Pilate. 

The Street of Pain, or the road traveled by Christ 
bearing the cross, is divided into fourteen different stations. 
The first is the chapel in the Turkish barracks already 
mentioned; second, where the cross was laid upon Christ, 
just below the steps ascending to the barracks. We next 
observe a large, handsome building on the right. This is 
the institution of the Sisters of Zion, and here an arch, called 
the Ecce Homo arcb, or arch of Pilate, crosses the street, 
marking the spot where the Roman governor is said to have 
uttered the words: "Behold the man."^ 

Passing on we come near a broken column, forming the 
third station, near which Christ is said to have sunk under 
Mohn 5:;i-y. -John 19:5. 



250 AROQND THE GLOBE. 

the weight of the cross. Farther on we come to the tradi- 
tional house of the poor man Lazarus, ^ beyond which, op- 
posite this lane, is the fourth station, where Christ is said to 
have met His mother. Farther on we come to the " House 
of Dives," the rich man. The house is built of stone of 
various colors and possesses a small balcony. Here is the 
fifth station, where Simon of Cyrene took the cross from 
Christ. A stone built into the next house to the left has a 
depression in it said to have been caused by the hand of Christ. 
About one hundred steps farther on we come to the sixth 
station. To the left is the house and tomb of St. Veronica, 
who is said to have wiped the sweat from the Savior's brow 
at this spot, whereupon His image remained imprinted on 
her handkerchief. 

Before passing through the vaulting or arch work, we see 
to the left a house against which Christ is said to have leaned, 
or near which He fell the second time, the seventh station. 
The eighth station is where Christ is said to have addressed 
the women who accompanied Him ; the ninth is said to be 
where Christ sank again under the weight of the cross ; 
the tenth is where Christ was disrobed ; the eleventh, where 
He was nailed to the cross ; the twelfth, that of the raising 
of the cross ; the thirteenth, where He was taken down from 
the cross ; the fourteenth, the Holy Sepulchre. 

What a record this is of the journey from prison to 
Calvary, Loaded with the sins of the world. Whatever our 
views and feelings may be in regard to these different places 
designated by the Greeks and Latins, we cannot altogether 
disregard them, drenched as they have been with the tears of 
multitudes for generations. Many, both rich and poor, bathe 

1 Luke 16:20. 



VIA DOLOROSA. 



251 



these hallowed stones with their tears, and kiss them as they 
pass along, some on their hands and knees, thus symbolizing 
the humility, sufferings, and obstacles met by their blessed 
Master. Others go in groups accompanied by a priest, and 
at each station, on their knees, a short prayer is offered up. 
So while we are here, in this Christian land, let us not forget 
that it becomes us as Christians to follow the Master through 
the street of pain in our minds and hearts and become more 
obedient and subject to His divine will. 




CHAPTER XXIX. 

Steeets and Shops, 
streets— lanes— grain markets— bazaars— jewish quarters- 
shops— castle of david— jaffa gate— valley of hinnom — 
burial grounds— gihon— official buildings— hospit- 
ALS— ZION'S GATE — COENACULUM — TOMBS OF KINGS, 
DAVID AND SOLOMON— OUTPOURING OF THE HOLY 
GHOST — WASHING OF THE APOSTLES'FEET — 
LAST SUPPER — HOUSE OF CAIAPHAS. 

} HE three principal streets of Jerasaleni are 
'■^ called Christian street, David street, and 




Damascus street. On Christian street the 
shops arc somewhat more in European style 
than on the other streets. David street, to the left, forms the 
corn market, as we see by the larire heaps of grain and bas- 
kets of seed in every direction. Procecdino; farther on will 
bring us to the Old Bazaar, consisting of three covered streets 
running north and south and intci-sected by several trans- 
verse lanes. The bazaars occupy the center of the town, but 
are very inferior, as Jerusalem possesses neither manufac- 
tories nor wholesale houses worthy of mention. The east 
bazaar street which leads towards the south to the Jewish 
quarters is a dirty street with brokers' stalls, shops for the 
sale of tinware manufactured by the Jews, and many Jewish 
shops where work is done in olive wood, all kinds of curious 
things being made to sell to the pilgrims in memory of Jeru- 
salem and Mount Olivet ; and indeed these manufacturers 



SCENES IN JERUSALEM. 253 

are very anxious to sell their goods. Further on we reach 
the castle of David, tradition gives it that this monarch once 
had his palace here. 

We are now just inside of the Jaffa gate, which is the 
main entrance into the city, and consequently always 
crowded, some coming and others going, elbowing their 
way through the crowd, while the mules and carriages hold 
the way. The space outside of the gate is generally enlivened 
by processions of arriving and departing pilgrims. The 
muleteers and horse owners, Arab saddlers and ferriers are 
generally posted outside the Jaffa gate. 

On Fridays and Sundays the scene is especially lively, 
the Jaffa road being the favorite promenade of the natives. 
Many European shops have been built along each side of the 
road. A second road which turns to our left after leaving 
the Jaffa gate, will bring us to the Mamilla pool lying in 
the middle of a Moslem burial ground, which is situated near 
the end of the valley of Hinnom. 

The pool is ninety-seven yards long and sixty-four yards 
wide, and is supposed by some to be the upper Gihon. It 
is partly hewn in the rock, but the sides are also lined with a 
wall. In the winter it is filled with rain water, but it is 
empty in the summer and autumn. 

The Post Office, Custom House, Telegraph Offices, 
Hotels, Consulates, Hospitals, etc., are the principal sights 
in this part of the city. There are also mission schools and 
churches of various kinds. The Russian Palestine Society 
has erected immense buildings here consisting of an insane 
asylum, hospitals, mission-house and different departments 
for the accommodation of pilgrims. 



254 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

Coming around the so-called Suburb of Zion we see the 
English and German Protestant burial grounds and Bishop 
Gobat's English school, where Arab orphans and other chil- 
dren are educated. Leaving there we come to the Coenacu- 
lum called by the Moslems Neby Daud (prophet David). 
Zion's Gate is on the north side. It formerly belonged to the 
Christians, but is now in possession of the Moslems. 

The Chamber of the Last Supper, or Coenaculum, (see 
illus., p. 237) is shown here, and by paying a fee, you will be 
conducted by a Moslem, with a pack of howling boys follow- 
ing which makes it very unpleasant for one, to a room on the 
first floor, divided into two parts by two columns in the middle; 
it was formerly a part of a Christian church. Half pillars with 
quaint capitals are built into the walls. The ceiling consists 
of pointed vaulting of the fourteenth century. 

Three windows look into the court, and under the center 
one is a niche for prayer. In the south-west corner of the 
room a staircase descends to a lower room, in the middle of 
which is shown the place where the table of the Lord is said 
to have stood. A stone in the north wall marks the Lord's 
seat. The visitor is led into another room where he sees a 
long, covered, modern coffin, styled the Sarcophagus of 
David, and said to be a copy of the genuine coffin of David, 
which, it is alleged, still exists in subterranean vaults below 
this spot. 

The church on Zion is mentioned as early as the fourth 
century before the erection of the church of the Sepulchre. 
In the time of Helena a " Church of the Apostles" stood on 
the supposed scene of the Descent of the Holy Ghost, which 
was probably this spot. The " Column of scourging" was 
also supposed to be here. It was not until the seventh cen- 



CHUKCH or ZION. 



255 



tury that tradition combined the scene of the Last Supper 
with that of the Descent of the Holy Ghost. The scene of 
the Virgin's death was also at a later period transferred 
hither. In the time of the Franks, the church was called the 
" Church of Zion," or " Church of St. Mary." 

The church of the Crusaders consisted of two stories. 
The lower had three apses, an altar on the spot where ^Mary 




THE LAST SUPPER. 



died, and another on the spot where Jesus appeared " in 
Galilee." The washing of the Apostles' feet was also said to 
have taken place here, while the upper story was considered 
the scene of the Last Supper. Connected with the church 
of Zion there was an Augustinian abbey. In 1333 the Fran- 
ciscans established themselves here, and from them the build- 
ing received its present form. Attached to the monaster}^ 
was a large hospital, erected in 1354 by a Florentine lady, 



256 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

and committed to the care of the brethren. To this day the 
superior of the Franciscans is called the ' ' Guardian of Mount 
Zion." 

For centuries the Moslems did their utmost to gain 
possession of these buildings, and as early as 1479 they for- 
bade pilgrims to visit the scene of the Descent of the Holy 
Ghost, as they themselves revered the tombs of David and 
Solomon on the same spot. In 1547 they at length succeeded 
in depriving the Franciscans of all their possessions, and for 
the next three centuries Christians had great difficulty in 
obtaining access to the place. The "Tomb of David " formed 
one of the holy places in the church of Zion so far back as 
the Crusaders' period, and it is possible that ancient tombs 
still exist beneath the building ; what is now shown, however, 
is hardly worth visiting. 

As David and his descendants were buried* in "The city 
of David," ^ the expression was once thought to mean Beth- 
lehem, and their tombs were accordingly shown near that 
town from the third to the sixth century. The evangelists, 
however, who were doubtless aware of the site of David's 
tomb, appear to place it in Jerusalem,^ where by this time 
Hyrcanus and Herod had robbed the tombs of all their pre- 
cious contents. According to Nehemiah 3:16 and Ezekiel 
43:7, we are justified in seeking for the tombs of the kings 
on the Temple mount, above the pool of Siloah. 

The Scriptures are very explicit in their account of David 
coming up from Hebron and taking the strong Castle of 
Zion, and building the New City of David round about 
the old fortress of the Jebusites. Zion henceforth became 
his royal residence, and when Israel's great king closed his 

1 1 Kings 2:10, etc. ^ ^ptg 2:29. 



It 




{Original J-'/ioto. 
MOUNT zrON AND TOMB OF DAVID AND SOLOMON. 



Behold the Mountain of the Lord, 

In latter days, shall rise 
Above the mountains and the hills, 

And draw the wondering eyes. 
The beam that shines on Zion's hill, 

Shall lighten every land; 
The King who reigns in Zion"s towers, 

Shall all the world command. 



THE CITY OT DAVID. 259 

eventful reign of forty years, it is written, he was buried in 
the City of David, and so it is said of Solomon his son, and 
of twelve of their successors to the throne, that they were all 
buried in the City of David on Mount Zion which is Jeru- 
salem. 

Approaching the town the edifice forming the corner is 
the Armenian monastery of Mount Zion or the House of 
Caiaphas, where tradition states that Christ was imprisoned; 
a stone is also shown with which the Holy Sepulchre is said 
to have been closed, and which pilgrims kiss. The spot 
where Peter denied Christ and the court where the cock 
crew ^ are here shown. 

1 Luke 22:61. 





CHAPTEE XXX. 
A Walk to Gethsemane. 

VALLEY OF KIDRON — BEGGARS — LEPERS— HOSPITAL — LIST OF 

LEPERS — STEPHEN STONED — VIRGIN'S TOMB — CAVERN OF 

AGONY — GETHSEMANE — SORROWFUL EVENT — 

AFFECTING SCENES IN THE GARDEN — 

MOUNT OF OLIVES— TREES 

AND SHRUBS. 

N company with others we left St. Stephen's 
o;ate for a Sunday afternoon walk. Outside 
the gate we saw many graves on both sides of 
the road as we descended the mount to the 
valley of the Kidron. To the right of the gate is a pond, 
thirty-one yards long, twenty- five yards ■ wide and thirteen 
feet deep. The pond is sometimes called Hezekiah's Pool, a 
name for which there is no authority. 

Going down the hill until we strike the Bethany and 
Jericho road, and turning to our right, many beggars and 
lepers are seen, making an awful sight to look upon. They 
have their faces disfigured and their hands and fingers oflf ; 
some have their toes and feet off, while many have their 
voices so affected by the terrible disease that it is almost im- 
possible for them to make a loud noise as they call ' ' Bakh- 
shish, lepers, lepers," and follow you, showing their hands 
and begging for sympathy and for alms. 



liEPEOSY. 263 

This state of affairs should not be, because there is a hos- 
pital for lepers, not far from the German colony, very pleas- 
antly located, which gives them all aid and care ; but as they 
must be kept clean while here and abide by the rules, they 
prefer to sit by the wayside begging. The foreman at the 
hospital said to me that visitors ought not to support or 
encourage them in their way because that would tend to keep 
them out of the hospital, as there are no laws to compel them 
to go there. The institution is maintained by the brethren 
of Herrnhut. We were very kindly shown through the hos- 
pital, took a sad look at the patients, and heard the nature of 
the disease explained. 

The disease is not at all infectious, but the seclusion of 
the patients is necessary to prevent them from marrying, thus 
extending and perpetuating this dread disease. 

Hideousl}'^ repulsive leprous beggars are still met on the 
Yafa road, as many of them, particularly the Jews, have a 
great repungnance to being lodged in the hospital ; but it is 
hoped that most of them will in time be thus secluded, as 
there is no other effectual mode of eradicating this generally 
incurable disease. The malady being hereditary, the children 
of leprous persons are almost always attacked with it in later 
life. Leprosy was a disease of somewhat frequent occurrence 
among the Israelites. There are now forty to fifty lepers in 
Jerusalem. The Biblical regulations regarding leprosy are 
of a very rigorous character.^ 

Leprosy is the consequence of a kind of decomposition 
of the blood. Several months before the outbreak of the 
disease, the patient feels languid and suffers from cold chills, 
shivering in the limbs, and attacks of fever. Reddish spots, 

1 Levit. 13:14. 



264 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

then make their appearance on the skin, and under them rise 
dark red lumps which are more or less movable. In the face 
particularly these lumps unite into orroups resembling 
bunches of grapes. The mouth and lips swell, the eyes run, 
and the patient is frequently tormented by excessive itching 
over the whole body. The mucous membrane begins to be 
destroyed, and the nodules form internally also. The organs 
of speaking, seeing, and hearing become affected. At length 
the swellings burst, turn into dreadful, festering sores, and 
heal up again, only to break out at a different place. The 
fingers become bent, and some of the limbs begin to rot 
away. 

This kind of leprosy, with its accompanying swellings, 
differs from the smooth leprosy, which produces painful, 
flat, inflamed patches on the skin, followed by sores. Other 
maladies are generally superinduced by leprosy, but the 
patient sometimes drags on his melancholy existence for 
twenty years or more. The patients in this hospital present 
a spectacle of human misery in one of its most frightful 
phases, and the visitor will not fail to sympathize with the 
benevolent efforts that are being made to alleviate their suf- 
fering to the utmost, and to prevent the farther spread of 
the scourge. 

A list of names, ages, and dates of arrival will here be 
given, as received at the hospital on the 21st of March 1895. 

Men. 
1 Christians. 







Age. 


Admitted. 


1. 


Chalil, Greek Catholic, 


41 years, 


April 1874 


2. 


Ode, Evangelical, - - 


28 years, 


- December 1889 


3. 


Jakub, Greek Catholic, 


33 years, - 


- - March 1891 



IKMATES OF HOSPITAL. 

Age. 

4. Gabriel, Roman Catholic, 18 years, - 

5. Dieb, Evangelical, - - 35 years, - 

2 Mohammedans. 

Age. 

6. Mohammed I. - - - 38 years, - 

7. Said, ------- 25 years, - 

8. Salem, ----- 51 years, - 

9. Suleiman, ----- 20 years, - 

10. Ismain, ----- 25 years, - 

11. Mohammed II., - - - 33 years, - 

12. Mahmud, ----- 24 years, - 

13. Achmed, ----- 50 years, - 

14. Hassan, ------ 30 years, 

15. Abdul-Rhamin, - - - 45 years, - 

16. Mohammed III., - - - 55 years, - 

Women. 
1. Christians. 

Age. 

1. Smikna, Evangelical, 26 years, 

2. Name, Greek Catholic, 42 years, - 

3. Haluwe, Greek Catholic, 40 years, 

4. Habsa, Greek Catholic, 40 years, - 

2. Mohammedans. 

Age. 

5. Fatme 1. , - - - 25 years, 

6. Arsise - - - 46 years, - 

7. Halime, - - - 46 years, 

8. Salha, - - - 25 years, - 

9. Fatme II., - - - 25 years, 

10. Nithme, - - - 30 years, - 

11. Sabba, - - - - 35 years, 

12. Fadige, - - - 25 years, - 



265 

Admitted. 

- - May 1891 

- - May 1893 

Admitted. 

- - June 1890 
■ - May 1891 

- - May 1891 
September 1891 

- - April 1893 
- - April 1893 

- - May 1893 

- June 1893 

- - July 1893 
October 1893 

November 1893 



Admitted. 

June 1875 
January 1887 

- March 1890 
March 1893 

Admitted. 

November 1885 

- April 1892 

June 1892 

October 1892 

- March 1893 

- June 1893 
July 1893 

- July 1893 



266 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

Just before turning to cross the Kidron, there is a rocky 
place where tradition locates the stoning to death of St. 
Stephen. O, what a man, being dead yet speaketh! And they 
stoned Stephen while he called upon God, saying, ''Lord 
Jesus, receive my spirit." And he kneeled down and cried 
with a loud voice, "Lord, lay not this sin to their charge," 
and when he had said this, he fell asleep. 

We now crossed the Kidron by a little bridge, but there 
was no water, the bed being perfectly dry. It is claimed that 
in wet weather there was water flowing. Tradition claims 
that there is an under current of water, while the rubbish of 
centuries has so closed up the valley that the water course is 
changed; and it looks quite reasonable, as further down the 
valley water is seen. 

To the left of the road, beyond the bridge, is the chapel 
of the Tomb of the Virgin, where, according to the legend, 
she was interred by the apostles, and where she lay until her 
assumption. A flight of steps descends to the space in front 
of the church. The only part of the church above ground is 
a porch. In this church are the tombs of Joachim and Anna 
the parents of the Virgin ; also the tomb of Joseph, and the 
tomb of the Virgin Mary the mother of Jesus. On our re- 
turn, to the left, is a passage that leads to the so-called 
" Cavern of the Agony." 

A few rods from the Tomb of the Virgin, on the opposite 
side of the road leading to the Mt. of Olives, is situated the 
Garden of "Gethsemane." The name signifies "oil-press." In 
1847 a wall was erected around the garden (see illus. p. 23) by 
the Franciscans, to whom it now belongs. The entrance is on 
the side next to the Mt. of Olives. A rock immediately to 
the east of the door marks the spot where Peter, James and 



EOCK or THE APOSTLES. 



267 



John slept/ The rock, which is called the " Rock of the 
Apostles," (see illus. p. 127), covers a large space. Some 
four or five rods from this rock is the spot, outside of the 
garden wall, where tradition says Judas' betrayal of Jesus 




TOMB OF THE VIRGIN. 



{Original Photo.) 



with a kiss took place. On the inside of the walls are pic- 
tures of the fourteen stations, as given before. There is a 
neat fence around the the garden inside the outer wall and 
about six feet from it; between this and the outer wall vis- 

1 Mark 14:32. 



268 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

itors are allowed to pass while looking at objects of interest 
in the garden. Inside of the garden are eight venerable 
olive trees, with trunks bursting open from age, some of 
them walled up with stone. The trees are said to date from 
the time of Christ. 

The monk or priest who acts as guide presents the visitor 
with a boquet of roses, pinks and other flowers as a memento 
or in memory of the place, and expects a small sum of money 
for the maintenance of the garden. The olives yielded by 
the trees of the garden are sold at a high price, and rosaries 
are made from the olive stones. 

All these places seem to be in harmony with the Script- 
ures. It is here that Jesus came and prayed when loaded 
down with sorrow, for he said, "My soul is exceeding 
sorrowful, even unto death." "Tarry ye here and watch 
with me.'" How the Lord Jesus longed for some one to be 
with Him in His sorrow! And is it not true that man, when 
in the deepest sorrow and distress, longs for some one to be 
with him; but those called for that purpose, fell asleep, 
about a stone's cast away^ from where their blessed Savior 
fell on His face and prayed, saying, " O my Father, if it be 
possible, let this cup pass from me, nevertheless not as I will, 
but as thou wilt."^ 

O, what a time that was in the garden! He cometh unto 
the disciples and findeth them asleep, and sayeth unto Peter, 
" What, could ye not watch with me one hour?" So, Jesus 
found that He was left alone with no one to watch with Him. 
Jesus sayeth unto them, "Watch and pray, that ye enters 
not into temptation: the spirit indeed is willing, but the flesh 
is weak."* 

1 Matt. 26:38. ^ John 22: 41. ^ j^att. 26:89, * Matt. 26:41, 



THEJGAEDEH OF GETHSEMANE. ^G9 

Hte went the second time and prayed, saying " O my 
J'ather if this cup may not pass away from me except I 
drink it, thy will be done," having reference to the cup of 
suffering. When He said, "O, my father if this cup may 
not pass away from me," He meant if it be not possible to 
redeem fallen man unless I drink this cup, unless I suffer for 
them; Thy will be done. So He went also the third time 
and prayed, but the cup was not removed and thus He be- 
came willing to die for all mankind. 

There is a very interesting scene in the garden of Geth- 
semane — a life size picture showing Christ as broken down 
under the burden, and an angel coming down from heaven to 
comfort Him. This is inclosed under a round dome. Hours 
could be spent here in this noted place looking and medi- 
tating. 

The large old olive trees in the midst of the garden, it is 
claimed by tradition, date from the time of Christ, and it 
seemed as though the trees almost expressed the agony and 
stood as monuments in memory of Christ in the garden. We 
wish all our readers could have been with us on that Sunday 
afternoon. It is certain that it would be one of the great 
things in their lives that would not be forgotten. This place 
was visited quite frequently during our six weeks stay in Je- 
rusalem, and since we left the holy land, O, how vividly these 
places come up to our minds; and as we write our heart 
burns within us. 




CHAPTER XXXI. 

Mount or Olives and Sueroundings. 

CmjRCII OF THE lord's PRAYER — ASCENSION — GREAT INGATHER- 
ING — RUSSIAN BUILDING — VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT — 
RESURRECTION — ABSALOM'S TOMB — GROTTO OF 
ST. JAMES — VILLAGE OF SILOAH — POOL 
OF SILOAH — ST, MARY'S WELL. 

URNING to our right, on the side of the 
mountain leading towards Bethany, we come 
to the place where tradition says the ascen- 
sion of Christ into heaven took place.' "And 
He led them out as far as to Bethany, and He lifted up His 
hands and blessed them." Oh, what a place that is for the 
Christian heart ! No wonder that many spend their last mite 
to visit these sacred places at least once in their lifetime. 
"And while they looked steadfastly toward heaven as He 
went up, behold two men stood by them in white apparel ; 
which also said, Ye men of Galilee, why stand ye gazing up 
into heaven ? this same Jesus, which is taken up from you 
into heaven, shall so come in like manner as ye have seen 
Him go into heaven." ^ 

The disciples returned from the Mount of Olives and 
gathered together in that upper room waiting for the endow- 
ment of power and the Holy Ghost. And when the day of 
Pentecost was fully come, they were all with one accord in 
1 Luke 24: 50. 2 j^^^q j. jq, h. 



OUTPOURING or THE HOLY GHOST. 



273 



one place, when suddenly, very quickl}', came a sound, and a 
rushing, and a mighty wind, which filled all the house; and 
the cloven tongues and the fire came, and every one was 
conscious because it sat on them, and the Holy Ghost filled 
them, and they spoke with other tongues. Oh, what a time, 
dear reader ! Would you not like to have been there ? But 
the Lord has promised the same to all at this day. There is 




reason to rejoice that I am not exempted, but stand as a 
witness to the power of saving and of the Holy Ghost. 
Blessed be the dear name of the Lord ! 

The result of this wonderful outpouring was that three 
thousand souls were added to the church the same day. Thus 
we see that the gathering of souls into Christ's kingdom does 
not depend so much upon the efforts of man, but upon union, 

18 



274 AEOIIND THE GLOBE. 

love, oneness of mind and spirit, and, above all these, the 
power of the Holy Ghost. When a soul has been influenced 
by the Holy Ghost the work is well done, and no earthly 
power can claim the credit. The efforts of the ablest 
preacher or most noted evangelist will avail nothing unless 
accompanied by the power of the Holy Spirit. May the 
Lord bless the Christian churches of this land, and gain to 
Himself great honors, is the prayer of your humble servant. 

A beautiful church, called the "Church of the Lord's 
Prayer" (see illus., p. 138), is built on the spot where tradition 
locates the place at which Christ taught His disciples the 
"Lord's Prayer." It was built in 1868 by the Princess Latour 
d' Auvergne, relative of Napoleon IH. Around the passage- 
ways are thirty slabs, upon which the Lord's Prayer is 
inscribed in as many different languages. The Latin build- 
ing and the Russian building, standing on the Mount of 
Olives, are controlled by their respective societies. From 
this point we had a magnificent view of Jerusalem. The 
valley of the Kidron bounds Jerusalem on the east, and in 
the time of Christ the Kidron was called the winter brook. 

The name, "Valley of Jehoshaphat," is of early origin, 
having already been applied to this valley by the venerable 
pilgrim of Bordeaux. The tradition that this gorge will be 
the scene of the last judgment, founded on a misinterpreta- 
tion of a passage of Scripture in the book of Joel, ^ is probably 
of pre-Christian origin, and has been borrowed from the 
Jews by Christians and Moslems alike. The Moslems accord- 
ingly bury their dead on the east side of the Temple of 
Solomon, or the Mosque of Omar, while the Jews have their 
cemetery on the west side of the Mount of Olives. At the 

1 Joel 3:2. 




THE GOLDEN GATE, JERUSALEM. 



(Original Photo.) 



Jerusalem, the golden, 

With milk and honey blest. 
Beneath thy contemplation, 

Sinks heart and voice opprest: 
I know not, 0, 1 know not. 

What social joys are there; 
What radiancy of glory. 

What light beyond compare. 

— Alexander Ewing. 



ABSALOM'S TOMB. 277 

resurrection, the sides of the valley are expected to move 
farther apart, in order to afford sufficient room for the great 
assembly. 

There are different roads leading from the garden of 
Gethsemane to the Mount of Olives ; there are also many 
different things to notice, but as it was raining at this time, 
and the water was washing down the sides of the Mount, we 
spent the time, as we walked along with our umbrella open, 
in picking up some beautifully colored pebbles to take along 
home with us. We now came to the place where Christ 
beheld the city, and wept over it. ^ The spot commands a 
beautiful view of the city. 

The top of the Mount of Olives is reached from Geth- 
semane in about fifteen minutes. The principal trees are the 
olive, fig, and carob, and here and there a few apricot, almond, 
terebinth, and hawthorne trees, but not many of either kind. 
This is a very tiresome walk, as the roads are rough and in 
clear weather the sun is very hot. We made frequent visits 
to Mount Olivet. 

To the west of Gethsemane a road branches off to the 
lower bridge, and the first object of interest we come to 
is Absalom's tomb. "Now Absalom in his lifetime had 
taken and reared up for himself a pillar, which is in the 
king's dale : for he said, I have no son to keep my name 
in remembrance : and he called the pillar after his own name : 
and it is called unto this day, Absalom's place." ^ 

The tomb is cut into the solid rock ; is six and one-half 
yards square and twenty feet high, and is detached on three 
sides, being separated from the rock by a passage eight feet 
wide by nine feet long. As the surrounding rock was not 

1 Luke 19:41. -22 Samuel 18:18. 



278 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

high enough to admit of the whole monument being exe- 
cuted in a single block, a square superstructure of large 
stones was erected above the massive base. So far as it is- 
visible above the rubbish, the monument is forty-seven feet 
high. Near by is the tomb of Jehoshaphat, and also the 
grotto of St. James, or tomb of St. James (see illus., p. 95). 
The grotto of St. James is considered holy by the Christians, 
from the tradition that St. James lay concealed there after 
the crucifixion, and that he ate no food until after the resur- 
rection. Here may also be seen the Pyramid of Zacharias, 
executed under direction of the Christians, in memory of 
the Zacharias mentioned by Matthew. ^ The monument 
resembles Absalom's tomb, but is twenty-nine feet high. 

In about four minutes we reach the village of Siloah. 
Near this village is the house for lepers, erected by the 
Turkish government, and the inmates are seen on every 
hand. No wonder that the Lord was moved with compassion 
when He saw so many cursed with sin and the dreadful 
disease of leprosy, and healed them as they came to Him. 
"And when the evening was come they brought unto Him 
many that were possessed with devils, and He cast them out, 
and healed all that were sick." 

A short distance from here we come to the Pool of 
Siloah (see illus., p. 241), which is fifty-two feet long and 
eighteen feet wide. In consequence of the miracle recorded 
by John ^ the pool was deemed sacred. The wall of the pool 
has now fallen in, and the bottom is covered with rubbish. 
The water is generally more or less salty to the taste, perhaps 
from the decomposition of the soil through which it perco- 
lates; it is also polluted by the washerwomen and tanners. 

1 Matthew 23 : 35. ^ joj^q 9.7 



THE VALLEY OF HmNOM. 279 

A little further on is the place where tradition says that 
the prophet Isaiah was sawn asunder in the presence of King- 
Manasseh. The tradition of this martyrdom is alluded to by 
some of the authors of church history. Thus, wherever you 
go, or whatever you see, there is some noted Bible occurrence 
connected therewith. 

There are two important wells in the valley of the 
Kidron, which are called "St. Mary's Well" and the "Well 
of Job," which lies 345 feet below Gethsemane. The first is 
so called because tradition claims that the Virgin once 
washed the swaddling clothes of her son at this place, and 
the second is so called from the tradition that the Holy Fire 
was concealed in this well during the captivity, until recov- 
ered by Nehemiah. Probably we are here standing on the 
brink of the well of En Rogel (or Fuller's spring), mentioned 
in Joshua 15:7, as the boundary between the tribes of Judah 
and Benjamin. Here, too, Adonijah prepared a feast for 
his friends on the occasion of his attempted usurpation of 
the throne of David. ^ 

The valley of Hinnom is bounded on the south by the 
Hill of the Tombs, or Hill of the Field of Blood (see illus., 
p. 87). The valley separates the hill from Zion, and the 
name of the valley occurs in the description of the boundaries 
between Judah and Benjamin. ^ 

It was in this valley that the children were anciently 
sacrificed to Molech. * The spot was called Topheth, or 
place of fire. These sacrifices took place just outside of 
the present city walls. Jeremiah vigorously opposed these 
revolting practices, and Josiah caused the place to be defiled 
that it might never again be the scene of such sacrifices. 

' 1 Kings 1:9. ^ Joshua 15:8. ^ 2 Kings 23 : 10. 




CHAPTER XXXII. 
A Visit to Bethlehem. 

"hill of evil counsel" — TREE ON WHICH JUDAS HANGED HIM- 
SELF — BOUNDARY LINE — WELL OF MAGI — RACHEL'S TOMB — 
BETHLEHEM — NAOMI— RUTH — BOAZ — DAVID ANOINTED — 
CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY — MANGER — "MILK 
GROTTO " — DAVID'S WELL — SHEPHERD'S 
FIELD — CAVE OF ADULLAM. 

EAVING the Jaffa gate, we turn to our left 
into the valley of Hinnom. Crossing the stone 
bridge and leaving the station and the German 
colony to our right, the ascent of the "Hill of 
Evil Counsel " is made. Tradition states that here Caiaphas, 
at his country house, consulted with the Jews how to take 
Jesus, and from this the hill received the name ''Evil 
Counsel." 

Passing on, our attention was called to the tree upon 
which Judas hanged himself. All of its branches extend 
toward the east. The tree is certainly very old, but it is 
very doubtful whether this is the original tree. The plain 
extends hence toward the south, and is identical with the 
Valley Rephaim, through which the boundary between Judah 
and Benjamin ran. ^ 

The Philistines were frequently encamped here, and it 
was here that they were defeated by David. ^ Further on, 

1 Joshua 15 : 8. ^2. Samuel 5 : 18. 



THE VALLEY OE HINNOM. 



281 



the spot is shown where it is said the house of Simeon stood. ^ 
The place is occupied by a small church. A little further on, 
to the left of the road, is a cistern, the "Well of the Magi," 
where, it is said according to tradition, the guiding star was 
again seen. ^ We observe to our right a house of the Catholic 



""?' 



(Original Photo.) 
ST. STEPHEN'S GATE, JERUSALEM. 

Maltese Order, where is shown the "Field of Pease," so 
called from the legend that Jesus once asked a man what he 
was sowing, to which the reply was, "Stone." The field 
thereupon produced pease, or stone, some of which are still 
to be found on the spot. 

About a ten minutes' walk from here we see to the right 
of the road an insignificant building, styled the "Tomb of 
1 Luke 2:25. ^liaXi.^-.Q. 



282 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

Rachel." Rachel was the beloved wife of Jacob. On his- 
death bed he said, "When there was but a little way to come 
unto Ephrath, Rachel died by me and I buried her there, in 
the way of Ephrath; the same is Bethlehem." ^ This spot i& 
revered alike by Jews, Christians and Mohammedans. 

In about fifteen minutes more we reach Bethlehem,^ 
which is next to Jerusalem in interest, in all Palestine. 
Around it clusters a number of sacred memories. It lies 
about six miles south of Jerusalem, on the crest of a lime- 
stone ridge. Although so near Jerusalem it is hidden by 
an intervening height; but through the valleys, stretching 
eastward to the Dead Sea, fine views are gained of the 
mountains of Moab. The sides of the ridge are terraced, 
and sweep around it in graceful curves like natural stairs. 
They are covered with rows of olive trees, intermixed with 
the fig and the vine. 

In Bible history, Bethlehem is noted as the city of 
Naomi, to which she returned from Moab, with Ruth, her 
daughter-in-law. Here Boaz married Ruth and founded the 
family of Jesse, from which David sprang. The book of 
Ruth, in the Old Testament, contains an interesting ac- 
count of these events. 

At Bethlehem young David kept his father's flocks. In 
protecting them he acquired the skill in the use of the sling 
and stone which was displayed in his battle with the giant 
Goliath. Here David was anointed king of Israel by the 
prophet Samuel. ^ From him Bethlehem was called the city 
of David. 

But Bethlehem is especially distinguished as the birth- 
place of Jesus Christ, the Saviour of the world. It was 

iGen. 48:7. U Sam. 16:13. 




{Original Fhoto.) 
CAVE OF THE NATIVITY: THE MANGER. 



Hail the blest morn when the great Mediator, 
Down from the regions of glory descends. 

Shepherds, go worship the Babe in the manger; 
Lo! for His guard the bright angels attend. 

Cold on His cradle the dew-drops are shining. 
Low lies His bed with the beasts of the stall; 

Angels adore Him, in slumber reclining, 
Maker, and Monarch, and Savior of all. 



i 



i 



CHUECH or THE NATIVITY. 285 

thus foretold centuries before it took place, by the prophet 
Micah: "Thou, Bethlehem Ephratah, though thou be little 
among the thousands of Judah, yet out of thee shall He come 
forth unto me that is to be ruler in Israel; whose goings 
forth have been from of old, from everlasting." ^ 

One night, when some shepherds were watching their 
flocks near Bethlehem, suddenly a bright light shone around 
them, and an angel said to them: "Fear not: for, behold, I 
bring you good tidings of great joy, which shall be to all 
people. For unto you is born this day in the city of David 
a Saviour, which is Christ the Lord." Then a great company 
of angels sang, "Glory to God in the highest, and on earth 
peace, good will toward men." The shepherds went in haste 
to Bethlehem to see the child. They found Him lying in a 
manger, with Mary His mother. ^ 

To Bethlehem also came wise men who had seen in the 
East a star which denoted the birth of a great King. They 
worshiped the child and presented to Him gold and sweet 
smelling spices. ® 

In the Church of the Nativity is shown the spot where 
the Savior was born, and the manger in which He was laid. 
As we were escorted by the attendants from one department 
to another, attention was called to a place in one chapel 
where, it is stated, Joseph was warned and commanded by 
the angel to flee into Egypt. Traditions locate many other 
occurrences in the life of the Holy Family, but reference 
is here especially made to the chapel of the "Milk Grotto," 
where, according to tradition, they once sought shelter or 
concealment, and that a drop of the Virgin's milk fell on 
the floor of the Grotto. For many centuries both Christians 

1 Micah 5:2. ^ L^j^-e 2: 9— 17. ^ jyjatt. 2: 1—12. 



286 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

and Moslems have entertained a superstitious belief that the 
rock of this cavern has the property of increasing the milk 
of women and even of animals, and to this day round cakes 
made of dust from this rock are sold to pilgrims, of which 
we bought two as specimens. 

Bethlehem means the "House of Bread." It was an- 
ciently called Ephrath, the fruitful. It had springs of 
water and fertile fields, very different from the barren 
regions to the east and south. Here a full supply of food 
might be obtained from agricultural pursuits. 

Bethlehem is now a flourishing Christian town of white 
stone houses, containing about 8000 inhabitants. A large 
building, consisting of a church and three convents, stands 
over the place where Christ was supposed to have been born. 
Part of it was erected by the Empress Helena, the mother 
of the Emperor Constantine, in the early part of the fourth 
century. It is, therefore, one of the oldest monuments of 
Christian architecture in the world. A short distance from 
the gate of the city is the well where David quenched his 
thrist, and whose waters he prized so highly. ^ 

Many of the Bethlemites, as they are called, work in 
mother of pearl and in olive wood and are very anxious to 
sell their trinkets to the visitors; they hang on so persistently 
in their efforts to sell that a person feels much relieved 
when he has left the city. We returned to Jerusalem late in 
the evening, very weary with our much traveling. 

Leaving Bethlehem on the east, the road winds down a 
rocky slope, past fields of wheat and barley and terraced 
vineyards. Innumerable sheep and goats are seen on the 
surrounding hills as in the days of Boaz and David. At the 

» 2 Sam. 23:15. 



O 

5' 
o 



1^ 







CAVE OF ADULLaM. 



m 



foot a level plain is reached, affording good pasturage, and 
dotted over with clumps of olive trees. This is called the 
"■Shepherds' Field," from the tradition that here the shep- 
herds were keep- 
ing their flocks 
by night when 
the angels ap- 
peared to them/ 
The cave of 
Adullam lies to 
the south-east, 
not far from 
Bethlehem. The 
limestone rocks 
of the district 
abound in caves, 
many of them of 
great size. The 
cave of Adul- 
l a m is a p- 
proached by a 
wild ravine, 
after which a 
narrow path 
leads up to it by 
a steep ascent. 
The entrance to 

BETHLEHEMITE WOMAN. {From Flioto.) , , . 

tne cave is by 
a small opening through which only one person can pass at 
a time. This leads to a series of chambers, some large 

1 Luke 2:8. 
19 




290 



ABOUND THE GLOBE. 



enough to hold several hundred men. Here David sought 
refuge from Saul. ^ Here he so longed for a drink of water 
from the wells of Bethlehem at the gate. ^ To this place 
there came to him every one that was in distress, and every 
one that was in debt, and David became their captain.^ The 
term " AduUamites " is sometimes applied to discontented 
politicians. 



1 1 Sam. 22: 1. - 2 Sam. 23: 15. 



1 Sam. 22:2. 





CHAPTER XXXIIL 
Feom Jerusalem down to Jericho. 

BETHANY — HOME OF JESUS — HOUSE OF MARY AND MARTHA — 

LAZARUS' TOMB — STONE OF REST — APOSTLES' SPRINGS^ 

" VALLEY OF ACHOR " — WAY OF BLOOD — 

MODERN JERICHO-BALSAM GARDENS. 

LL arrangements having been made the even- 
ing before, we got a timely start in the 
morning. A party of four of us, accompanied 
by a Turkish guide, started for Jericho, the 
Jordan and the Dead Sea. 

Coming around from the Jaila gate and crossing the 
Kidron, passing Gethsemane and descending the Mount of 
Olives towards Bethany, we were shown the supposed 
place where the fig tree stood which Christ cursed.^ 

In a few minutes we reached Bethany which is a small 
village on the side of the Mount of Olives, not quite two 
miles from Jerusalem. It lies directly on the road that leads 
down from Jerusalem to Jericho. It is a poor village, con- 
taining about twenty or thirty houses, built of stone. The 
material which composes them seems to have been the ruins 
of former buildings. It is now called the town of Lazarus in 
memory of his having been here raised from the dead. In 
the center rises the ruins of a crusading castle which was 
once called St. Lazarus. 

iMatt. 21:19. 



2^2 AROUND THE GLOBi:. 

Bethany may be called the home of Jesus. When He 
went up to Jerusalem, He always stopped here in the house 
of His friend Lazarus, ^ and his loving sisters Mary and 
Martha. When He had been teaching in the temple all day, 
He used to walk over the Mount of Olives in the evening, 
and go to the house of Lazarus to rest Himself and spend 
the night. 

At one of these visits of Jesus, Martha wished to get up 
a nice dinner for Him and His disciples. She wanted her 
younger sister, Mary, to come and help her; but Mary was 
sitting at the feet of Jesus, listening to His words. Martha 
came into the room where Jesus was speaking and com- 
plained to Him of Mary, saying, " Lord, dost thou not care 
that my sister has left me to serve alone? Bid her, therefore, 
that she help me." But Jesus took Mary's part, and said: 
"Martha, Martha, thou art careful and troubled about many 
things, but one thing is needful, and Mary has chosen that 
good part which shall not be taken from her."^ 

Bethany is specially noted as the place where Lazarus 
was raised from the dead. He had died while Jesus was far 
away beyond Jordan. Jesus knew that he was sick, and He 
might have come and healed him, but He stayed away in 
order to show His power by raising him from the dead. 
When Jesus returned to Bethany, He went with the sorrowing 
sisters to the grave of Lazarus. After ordering the stone to 
be taken away from the mouth of the grave, He cried with 
a loud voice: "Lazarus, come forth," and he that was dead 
came forth alive and well. What a happy family that was 
in Bethany that night! 

Going down about twenty steps into a chamber or cave 
to our left, is a tomb cut into the rock, which is the tomb of 

1 John 11:11. '! Luke 10:38—42. 



FROM JERUSALEM TO JERICHO. 295 

Lazarus. Reader do you expect to hear that voice calling 
you when you have been dead a lon^ while and your poor 
body turned to dust? O yes, Jesus will call all you fathers 
and mothers and children.^ Jesus first calls men who are dead 
to all that is good and right from the death of sin, when He 
says, "Awake thou that sleepest, and arise from the dead, 
and Christ shall give thee light;" ^ also, "and you hath he 
quickened who were dead in trespasses and sin." ' 

Such as have received this new quickening life, and that 
everlasting life,* though they die,^ yet shall they live. And 
again there shall be another call to all in their graves, for 
Jesus says, " Marvel not at this, for the hour is coming in 
the which all that are in the graves shall hear his voice." May 
we all hear that voice, "Come ye blessed of my Father, 
inherit the kingdom prepared for you."^ 

Some seven or eight rods from the tomb of Lazarus is 
the place where tradition locates the house of Mary and 
Martha, and also the house of Simon the leper. ^ A short 
distance from Bethany is the so-called " Stone of Rest," 
about three feet long, which pilgrims stoop down and kiss. 
It marks the spot where Martha met Jesus. ^ A chapel has 
been erected in memory of the event. About ten minutes 
further on we come to the watering place, or the "Apostles' 
Springs," which have been identified with the "Sun Spring"® 

The country is very hilly and barren, and this district 
appears quite deserted. It is dangerous for one to travel 
without an escort. Here the ' ' certain man " who went down 
from Jerusalem to Jericho, spoken of in the parable of the 
good Samaritan, was supposed to have been attacked.^" At 

1 John 5:28. ^ Eph. 5:14. ^ Eph. 2:1. * John 3:16. ^ John 11:25. 
6 Matt. 25:34. ^ Matt. 26:6, » John 11:20. » Josh. 15:7. ^ Luke 10:30,. 



296 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

the place where the inn was supposed to have stood there is 
at the present time a halting place for travelers. 

There is a deep ravine winding down towards the Jordan, 
which contains water during the wet season of the year. It 
is identified as the "Valley of Achor."^ In the distance 
below us, we saw the valley of the Jordan, and the Dead 
Sea with its dark blue waters. In about one hour and a half 
we reached Jericho. 

The ancient Jericho lay by the springs at the foot of the 
hill of Karantel, that is to the west of modern Jericho, and 
to the north of Jericho of the Roman period. This is proven 
both by the Bible and by Josephus. The town was of con- 
siderable size and enclosed by walls, and its vegetation was 
very luxuriant. It is sometimes called the city of palms, and 
down to the seventh century, dates and palms were common, 
though they have now almost entirely disappeared. Around 
the town lay a large and flourishing oasis of corn and 
hemp fields. The Israelitish town at first belonged to the tribe 
of Benjamin, afterwards to the kingdom of Judah. In spite 
of many conquests Jericho continued to flourish. 

It was especially noted for its balsam gardens, the cul- 
ture of which probably dated from th'e period when Solomon 
received rare spices from South Arabia.^ The plant has now 
disappeared entirely, although the plants of South Arabia 
and India would still flourish in this warm climate. Here, too, 
flourished the Henna, which yields a red dye. In the time of 
Christ shady sycamores stood by the wayside,^ 

Antony presented the district of Jericho to Cleopatra, 
who sold it to Herod, and that monarch embellished it with 
;i palace and made it his winter residence, as being the 

1 Josh, 15:7, - I Kings 10;10. »Luke 19:4. 









(Original Photo.) 
TOMB OF LAZARUS AT BETHANY. 



Asleep in Jesus! blessed sleep! 

From which none ever wake to weep; 
A calm and undisturbed repose, 

Unbroken by the last of foes. 
Asleep in Jesus! peaceful rest! 

AVhose waking is supremely blest; 
No fear, no woe shall dim that hour 

That manifests the Savior's power. 



JERICHO. 



299 



most beautiful spot for the purpose in his dominions. He 
died here, but directed that he should be interred in the 
Herodium. It was at Jericho that the Jewish pilgrims from 
Perea (east of Jordan) and Galilee used to assemble on their 
way to the temple, and Christ also began His last journey to 
Jerusalem from this point. ^ As early as the fourth century 
the councils of the church were attended by bishops of 
Jericho. 

1 Luke 19:1. 





CHAPTER XXXIV. 

Jericho, Jordan, and Dead Sea. 

JERICHO— THORNS— BALM OF GILEAD— APPLES OF SODOM — ELISHA'S 

SPRING— HOUSE OF RAHAB — FORTY DAYS' FAST — ROBBERS — 

JORDAN — MAN DROWNED— BATHING IN JORDAN — 

DEAD SEA — CAMELS — MOUNTAINS 

OF MOAB— AMERICAN PARTY. 

fMPEROR Justinian caused the Church of the 
Mother of God at Jericho to be restored, and a 
hospice for pilorrims to be erected. About the 
year 810, a monastery of St. Stephen existed at 
Jericho. New Jericho, on t^e site of the present village, 
sprang up in the time of the crusaders, who built a castle and 
the Church of the Holy Trinity here. The place was after- 
wards inhabited by Moslems and gradually decayed. In 1840 
it was plundered by the soldiers of Ibrahim Pasha and in 1871 
almost entirely destroyed by fire. 

The present Jericho consists of a group of low, dirty 
huts, with a hotel and a few other buildings which are more 
attractive. The population is about 300 souls. The villagers 
usually crowd around strange visitors, and there is danger of 
being robbed. The site of the home of Zaccheus is shown to 
us here.^ 

The gardens contain many grape vines which in summer 
yield an abundant supply of fruit. Everywhere the ground 
\huke 1«J:1— 10, 



.TERICHO. 801 

is overgrown with thorny underwood. From the formidable 
thorns of these rhamnaceae, the thorny crown of Christ was 
made. They are now used by the natives in constructing 
their almost unapproachable fences. 

The Zakkum tree is found here; it is also called the 
pseudo-balsam tree, or balm of Gilead, having small leaves 
like the box. The fruit resembles small unripe walnuts, 
from which the Arabs prepare pseudo-balsam or Zaccheus 
oil, quantities of which are sold to pilgrims. We find here 
also the Solanum sanctum, a very woody shrub, three to 
four feet high, with broad leaves which are wooly on the 
under side. The fruit looks like an apple, being first yellow, 
and afterward turning red. It is sometimes called the apple 
of Sodom, and has been erroneously connected with the wine 
of Sodom, mentioned in Gen. 19:32. All these are products 
of a sub-tropical climate, for we are now about 825 feet 
below the level of the Mediterranean. The barley harvest 
takes place here in the middle of April. 

The Sultan's Spring, by which Jericho was once supplied 
with water, wells forth copiously from the earth and is col- 
lected in a pond twenty-two yards long and six and one half 
yards wide. Tradition states that this was the water which 
Elisha healed with salt;^ whence it is called Elisha's Spring- 
by the Christians. Above the spring is shown the site of the 
House of Rahab.^ 

A path took us to the Hermits' Caverns on the Jebel 
Karantel, the grotto in which Jesus is said to have spent the 
forty days of His fast.^ This was a fearful place, containing 
a high mountain and an immense precipice, with grottos and 
caves, so that no one would like to remain there alone any 
great length of time. 

1 2 Kin?s 2:19—22. ^ Joshua 2. ' Matt. 4:1. 



302 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

Jericho is about fifteen miles north-east of Jerusalem. In 
a distance of fifteen miles the road descends about 3,000 feet, 
hence the phrases, " Goino^ up to Jerusalem," and " Goin^ 
down to Jericho." On every side the steep mountains and 
deep ravines, now as formerly, are the haunts of robbers. 
All travelers passing along it need escorts. 

Jericho, the city of palm trees, ^ stood about five miles 
west of the Jordan. It was the first city to which the Israel- 
ites laid siege after crossing the river. The walls fell down 
miraculously, at the sound of the trumpets." The city was 
destroyed, and Joshua pronounced a curse upon the man who 
should rebuild it: " Cursed be the man before the Lord, that 
riseth up and buildeth this city Jericho. He shall lay the 
foundation thereof in his first born and in his youngest son 
shall he set up the gates of it."^ After five centuries this 
curse was fulfilled.* 

In the time of Christ, Jericho was a flourishing city. 
Herod built a palace here and an amphitheatre. It is now a 
barren waste with only a few shapeless ruins. The groves 
of palms which once stretched for miles around the city, and 
gave it its name, have disappeared. 

The brook Cherith, on the banks of which Elijah was fed 
by the ravens,^ flows past Jericho into the Jordan. In earlier 
times it was known as the Valley of Achor in which Achan 
was stoned.^ 

We crossed the plain of Jordan to where ' tradition 

locates the baptism of Jesus by John.' Pilgrims come here 

from all parts to visit this sacred place and many of them are 

baptized in the elordan, especially in the spring of the year 

when large pilgrim tours are made. 

1 Deut. 34:3. 2 jq^Yi. 6:20. ^ jogi^^ 6:26. * 1 Kings 16:34. 
s 1 Kings 17:1—7. ^ Josh. 7. ' Matt. 3:13 



A BATH m THE JOEDAK. 305 

The water was muddy, caused by the rains. A few days 
before we were here, Mr. Steffens, from New York, was 
drowned at this place, and on this account our dragoman did 
not want to give his consent for us to bathe in the Jordan, 
but by insisting, Mr. J. C. Mack and myself had a good bath. 
We took turns in bathing, one of us remaining on shore and 
supporting the other in the water with the aid of a long 
pole. What a place for bathing and baptizing! This is also 
near the ancient Gilgal of the Bible, where the Israelites 
erected twelve great stones after crossing the Jordan.* 

To the east of Jericho, a short distance from the Jor- 
dan, is a Greek monastery where we were well entertained 
for the night, by the Greek monks. We felt well secured 
as all the private rooms, chapels and stables were in one 
enclosure, as is the custom in that country. 

After a good night's rest, we were aroused early in the 
morning and, after our tea, we again started on our journey. 
The sky was clear, and the sun shone brightly, and our 
horses went briskly over the plains. This was a morning 
that will never be forgotten, we trust. A letter was received 
from J. C. Mack since our return home stating, " O, what a 
good time we had going to Jericho, the Jordan and the Dead 
Sea!" 

The Jordan, the principal river of Palestine, rises in the 
north near Mount Heron, flows through the Sea of Galilee, 
and then has a very winding course into the Dead Sea. At 
present the lower valley of the Jordan alone will be described; 
the upper portion of the river will be noticed hereafter. The 
entire length of the river, in a direct line, is about 120 miles. 
From the Sea of Galilee to the Dead Sea the distance is 

1 Joshua 4:19. 
20 



306 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

about sixty-five miles direct, but the river so doubles and 
winds that its actual course is about 200 miles long. The 
name means ''"'flowing down.'''' It enters the Dead Sea about 
3,000 feet below its source. The Jordan issues from the Sea 
of Galilee, a muddy, impetuous stream. It has cut so deep a 
channel that throughout the greater part of its course it is 
hidden from view. From any height, however, it is easy to 
trace its course by the trees and shrubs which grow upon its 
banks and overhang its bed. As the river descends about 
600 feet between the Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea, its 
current is quite rapid. It is also subject to destructive 
floods. In the time of harvest it overflows its banks. ■ The 
wild beasts which find shelter amid the jungle in the valley, 
must then flee to higher ground. Of a predicted destroyer 
it is said: "Behold, he shall come up like a lion from the 
swelling of Jordan against the habitation of the strong: but 
I will suddenly make him run away from her: and who is a 
chosen man, that I may appoint over her? for who is like 
me? and who will appoint me the time? and who is that 
shepherd that will stand before me? " ' 

The breadth of the Jordan varies: the average is about 
300 yards. The sunken channel of the river is from a quarter 
to a half a mile wide and has steep banks of white earth. 
The river has two banks, a higher and a lower. The water 
rises to the height of the former, but scarcely ever over- 
spreads the plain. The whole strip of valley on its banks is 
called El Ghor, which means a valley between hills. In its 
course the river forms several small islands, and at a number 
of places it flows over rocks. The northern part of the 
valley is partly occupied on both sides of the river by fields 

' Jeremiah 49:19. 



THE DEAD SEA. 309 

of barley; but below Jericho, the plain is barren and untilled 
with only a few low shrubs. From our starting place in 
the morning the Jordan is about one hour's ride, over a 
sandy and salty plain. Nothing is seen along the river 
with the exception of here and there under brush and small 
timber. We soon reached the shores of the Dead Sea, and as 
the sun was shining very warml}^ we bathed our feet in its 
crystal waters. 

The Dead Sea is the lowest body of water on the face 
of the earth. It lies in a deep hollow, 1,300 feet below the 
level of the Mediterranean. It is divided into two unequal 
portions by a tongue of land. The northern portion is very 
deep, the greatest depth known being 1,308 feet. The south- 
ern portion is much shallower, nowhere exceeding twelve 
feet. The water is clear as crystal and of a deep blue color. 
The waves are crested with foam of a dazzling whiteness. 
It is about forty miles long and ten miles broad. It is 
called the Dead Sea because no animal life can be sustained 
in its waters. 

In the Bible it is spoken of as the salt sea.' The water 
contains more than one part in four, of various 
salts. It is eight times more salty than the ocean. This 
makes it very bitter to the taste. Another effect is to 
make the water very buoyant. Eggs float in it like corks. 
Swimming is very difficult as the body floats high in the 
water. 

In Joel it is called the East Sea,^ as compared with the 

Mediterranean. Along the eastern shore the mountains of 

Moab stand like a mighty wall, from 1,200 to 2,000 feet above 

the waters. While the mountains on the west side, though 

1 Josh. 3:16. -' Joel 2:20. 



310 



AROUND THE GLOBE. 



seldom rising above 1,500 feet, are more broken. The north 
shore of the Dead Sea is strewn with trunks of trees, bones 
of animals and shells of fish, brought down by the Jordan. 
The trunks of trees, after tossing about, possibly for years, 
in the bitter waters, are cast on shore so saturated with salt 
that the wood will scarcely burn. They are also covered 
with a white incrustation of salt. The north shore of the sea 
is a large marsh of bullrushes and tall grass, with some 
bushes. Here the attention of our party was attracted by a 
large herd of camels, feeding. There were many young ones 
among them, and they created considerable curiosity as they 
stood upright, 'with their heads high in the air. On our re- 
turn to Jerusalem we met several other parties going down, 
among them being some from our own state, and others 
from Chicago, Illinois. We arrived at Jerusalem at about 
4 P. M., feeling well paid for our time and investment. 
















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{Original Photo. 
RESTING ON THE BANKS OF THE DEAD SEA. 



Lo! Death has reared himself a throne 

In a strange city lying alone 

Far down within the dim East, 

Where the good and the bad, and the worst and the best. 

Have gone to their eternal rest. 

There shrines and palaces and towers 

(Time-eaten towers that tremble not!) 

Resemble nothing that is ours. 

Around, by lifting winds forgot, 

Resignedly beneath the sky 

The melancholy waters lie. 




CHAPTER XXXV. 

Hebron and Cave of Machpelah. 

SOLOMON'S POOLS — AQUEDUCTS — TOMB OF THE PROPHET JONAH- 
VALLEY OF ESHCOL — HISTORY OF HEBRON — GREAT STONES 
— TOMBS OF ABRAHAM, ISAAC AND JACOB WITH 
THEIR WIVES — JEWISH PRAYER — "CHRISTIANS," 
"DOGS"— MISSIONS— PILGRIMAGES. 

^ROM the Bethlehem road we turned to our right 
at Rachel's tomb, and in about one hour we 
reached the so-called Solomon's Pools. They 
are three in number, and are situated in a val- 
ley at the rear of the castle. They were repaired in 1865. 
As the valley descends abruptly toward the east, the reser- 
voirs had to be constructed in steps, as an embankment of 
great size would have been necessary to confine the water 
in a single large reservoir. 

The three pools do not lie exactly above each other. 
The second is 53 yards distant from the highest, and 52 
yards from the lowest, and is about 19 feet below the former 
and the same height above the other. 

The highest pond is 127 yards long, 76 yards wide, and 
25 feet deep. It is partly hewn in the rock, and partly en- 
closed by masonry, flying buttresses being used for the 
support of the walls. The central pool is 141 yards long, 
68 yards wide, and 38 feet deep. It is almost entirely 
hewn in the solid rock. The lowest pool, the finest of the 



314 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

three, is 194 yards long, 59 yards wide, and is at places 
4:8 feet deep. It is partly hewn in the rock, and partly lined 
with masonry. 

The water from these pools was carried to Jerusalem 
by aqueducts of which much might be said. Above the upper 
pool we enter a chamber at the end of which a spring 
bubbles forth, the water of which is conducted to the pool by a 
channel supposed to be identical with the sealed fountain 
mentioned in Solomon's Song 4: 12. 

The surrounding mountains are barren, but the bottom 
of the valley is not entirely destitute of vegetation. Further 
on, on the top of the hill, are the ruins called Burjsur, which 
answers to the Beth-zur.' A short distance from there is 
shown the site of the Prophet Jonah's tomb, also that of the 
Prophet Gad who was buried here. Many tombs are cut 
in the rock at different places in this neighborhood. Shortly 
before coming to Hebron the country opens out into a rich 
valley with several fine springs of water and magnificent 
vineyards. The valley is supposed to be that of Eshcol 
(cluster), where the spies, Caleb and Joshua, cut down a 
bunch with one cluster of grapes, bearing it between them 
on a staff. ^ 

Hebron contests with Damascus as to being the oldest 
city in the world. The ancient name was Kirjath-arba, the 
city of Arba.^ Among Mohammedans it is known as El- 
Khalil, "The Friend," as referring to Abraham who was 
called by God Himself, "my friend." * 

Hebron is beautifully situated among groves of olive 
trees on the slope of a hill at the southern end of the valley 
of Eshcol. It is solidly built with blocks of grey stone. 

1 Josh. 15:58; Neh. 3: 16. 2 Num. 13:23. 3Gen,23:2. * Isaiah 41 : 8. 



THE LAND OF ABKAHAM. 



315 



Not long after Abraham came to Canaan, we find he pitched 
his tent in the plain of Mamre, which is in Hebron, and 
he built there an altar to the Lord.* 

Here no doubt he often sat at the door of his tent, and 
watched his flocks and herds as they were quietly feeding 




ABRAHAM ENTERTAINING THE ANGELS. 

on the plains and over the hills of Hebron. While doing so 
on one occasion, the Lord appeared to him and made known 
to him the destruction that awaited Sodom and Gomorrah, 
and the other wicked cities of the plain of the Jordan." 
1 Gen. 13:18. ^ Gen. 18. 



316 AKU Ui^D THE (iLOBE. 

At Hebron Sarah, Abraham's wife, died/ As a burial 
place he purchased the cave of Machpelah from the children 
of Heth.^ When Abraham himself died at a good old age, 
his sons, Isaac and Ishmael, buried him beside Sarah. ^ 

Here also Isaac and his wife Rebekah were laid. Leah, 
wife of Jacob, was laid in the same cave, and when Jacob 
died, far away in Egypt, he "gave commandment concerning 
his bones," that they should be carried there.* 

The entrance to the cave seems to have been in the face 
of a projecting mass of rock. At a very early period a 
building was erected over the cave. One of the stones is thirty- 
eight feet in length. It would be interesting to look at the 
graves of the patriarchs, but the cave is now enclosed in a 
great mosque and very few Jews or Christians are allowed 
to enter it. 

Hebron is a town of great antiquity. Mediaeval tradi- 
tion localised the creation of Adam here; and at a very early 
period, owing to a misinterpretation of Joshua 14: 15, where 
Arba is spoken of as the greatest man among the Anakim 
(giants), Adam's death was placed here. Abraham is also 
stated to have pitched his tent under the oaks of Mamre, the 
Amorite,^ the place being near Hebron, and opposite the 
cave of Machpelah. 

When Sarah died'^ Abraham purchased from Eph- 
ron, the Hittite, the double cavern of Machpelah as a 
family burial-place, and the narrative is no doubt intended 
to convey the meaning that an interest in the soil of Palestine 
was thereby secured to Abraham's descendants. Isaac and 
Jacob were also said to be buried here. 

1 Gen. 2.3 : 2. 2 Gen. 23 : .3—20. ' Gen. 25 : 10. * Gen. 49 : 29—33. 
=^ Gen. 13:18. ^ Gen. 23. 



HEBRON. 317 

Hebron was destroyed by Joshua ^ and became the 
chief city of the tribe of Caleb (chapter 14) which gradually 
became incorporated with the tribe of Judah. David spent 
along time in the region of Hebron. After Saul's death, 
David ruled over Jadah from Hebron for seven and a half 
years. It was at the gates of Hebron that Abner was slain 
by Joab, and David caused the murderers of Ish-bosheth, 
the son of Saul, to be hanged by the pool of Hebron. 
Hebron afterwards became the headquarters of the rebellious 
Absalom, but after that period it is rarely mentioned. 

These tombs are of intense interest to the Jews, and 
are frequently visited by them. The only place to which 
they can come is the great walls that form the enclosure. 
In this wall is a large opening into which our guide, in the 
presence of an officer, reached to the full length of his arm, 
and brought out three papers which he destributed to the 
visitors, the writer receiving one of them. These papers 
contain Jewish prayers. The Jews write their prayers and 
requests on paper, making their wants known to God 
through Abraham their father, and deposit them in these 
walls, with the expectation of having them answered. The 
prayers principally refer to the restoration of Jerusalem, the 
return of their brethren, and blessings on their wives and 
their children. 

A Jewish family is not happy when they have no off- 
spring, and at this place special request for such blessings 
are made known to God. The Jews are allowed to put away 
their wives in case they bear no children and to take an- 
other without the least disgrace. We will here give the 
original prayer as it has been translated from the Hebrew to 
the English language. 

1 Josh. 10:37. 



318 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 



JEWISH PRATER. 



Praise God, Jerusalem the Holy City, may God rebuild it 
speedily. Amen! 

Keuben, the son of Gittel, may he be helped to refreshness 
and satisfaction, and to be cured from all his pains, and have 
a contented, pleasant, honorable living. 

My wife, Blume, the daughter of Hench, to a perfect cure, 
and to get with child of durability and to bring them up in 
doctrinal education, and to marriage, and benefactions — be- 
tween all Israel. 

My mother, Gittel, the daughter of Kebekah, may be cured 
from eye-pains, and have a good age, with much pleasure 
from "her children. 

Praise God, Sluzka, (another town). My brother, Haim, 
the son of Gittel, may he be helped to refreshment and satis- 
faction, and to a perfect cure, and a contented, honorable 
living. His wife, Malkeh, may she be strengthened in bodily 
health; his daughter, Sarah Rebekah, may she be married 
speedily and satisfactorily; his daughter, Libe, to be led in 
good ways; Para and Sume, may they be brought up in 
pleasure and satisfaction, with long and good days. Between 
all Israel. ( Translated hy a converted Jew). 

When Canaan was taken bj^ Joshua, according to a 
promise given by Moses, Hebron was assigned to Caleb.* 
Afterwards it was made a city of refuge and given to the 
priests. When David was first chosen king on the death of 
Saul, he made Hebron his capital, and he reigned there 
for seven years. Here Absalom conspired against his father.^ 
Like Jerusalem, Hebron is looked upon with reverence alike 
by Jews, Christians and Mohammedans. 

We were here on a great feast day of the Mohammedans 
and it was very unpleasant as they followed the Christians 
from place to place calling them all sorts of names, such as 
"Christians" (derisively) "Dogs" and others more vile while 
several stones were thrown. Had it not been for our Turkish 
guard we might not have fared so well. 

1 Josh. 14: 6—14, ^ gam. 15. 



RETURNING TO JERUSALEM. 



319 



We called at several Mission Homes where we were very 
nicely entertained for a short time, and then returned to 
Jerusalem, on the way passing many pilgrims that were go- 
ing from Hebron to Jerusalem, most of them with bundles 
under their arms and staves in their hands, many quite old 
and hundreds of them in a company. They were principall}^ 
from Russia. 

These pilgrimages are made in the spring of the year by 
the thousand, and many of the pilgrims are said to be very 
poor people while others are not. 




1 




CHAPTER XXXVI. 

Emmaus and Samuel's Tomb. 

TOMBS — KOUGH ROADS — SAMUEL'S TOMB— CHRIST MET THE DIS- 
CIPLES— EMMAUS — LORD MADE HIMSELF KNOWN — STONE 
STRUCTURE— MOUNTAINS AND RAVINES — BROOKS— 
WHERE DAVID SLEW THE GIANT — RETURN 
TO JERUSALEM— LEAVING THE 
HOLY CITY. 

PARTY of US, four in number, accompanied 
by a dragoman, took a tour on foot from 
Jerusalem to Emmaus and return, taking with 
us a donkey for the purpose of carrying our 
coats and lunch. Starting from the Jaffa gate we were soon 
among the mountains, which hid from our view the Holy 
City. The country is barren and not much inhabited. Here 
and there an Arab is seen coming or going with some goats 
or a camel. Many tombs and caves, cut into the solid rock, 
are to be seen; while the signs of life are very few, yet there 
are indications that the country at one time was thickly pop- 
ulated. We soon lost our path and even our dragoman be- 
came confused while going over these mountains and hills, 
rocks and cliffs, that were almost impassible for man or beast. 
High mountain peaks and immense deep ravines were passed. 
At places in the low lands, there were some olive trees, 
while at other times vines and fruit trees were seen. In the 
distance a building was seen, and on coming closer, we found 



THE TOMB OF SAMUEL. 



321 



it to be a church or mosque which contained the tomb of 
Samuel, the prophet. "And Samuel died and all the Israel- 
ites were gathered together and lamented him, and buried 

him in his house 
at Ram ah." 
What a thought 
to visit a tomb 
of one who had 
been received of 
the Lord, in an- 
swer to prayer! 

"So Hannah 
rose up after 
they had eaten 
in Shiloh, and 
after they had 
drunk .... And 
she was in bit- 
terness of soul, 
and prayed unto 
the Lord, and 
wept sore. And 
she vowed a 
vow, and said, 
O Lord of hosts, 
if thou wilt in- 
deed look on the 
affliction of thine 
handmaid, and 
remember me, and not forget thine handmaid, but will give 
unto thine handmaid a man child, then 1 will give him unto 

21 




JERUSALEM DRAGOMAN. 



(Original Photo.) 



322 AROUKD THE GLOBE, 

the Lord all the days of his life, and there shall no razor 
come upon his head . . . .And Eli said unto her, How long wilt 
thou be drunken? put away thy wine from thee. And Hannah 
answered and said, No, my lord, I am a woman of a sorrow- 
ful spirit: I have drunk neither wine nor strong drink, but 
have poured out my soul before the Lord .... Then Eli an- 
swered and said. Go in peace: and the God of Israel grant 
thee thy petition that thou hast asked of him." ^ 

And the woman was no more sad, and the child was born 
unto her, and she brought him unto the Lord. "For this 
child 1 prayed; and the Lord hath given me my petition 
which I asked of him: therefore also I have lent him to the 
Lord. . . .And he worshipped the Lord there." ^ What a les- 
son of faith and perseverance can be learned here from this 
faithful mother! After 3,000 years we are permitted to visit 
the tomb of her righteous son. 

The road was very rough and we became tired of travel- 
ing. We stopped here to rest and eat our lunch and then 
passed on with the ancient Emmaus in view. What a road 
to travel! Undoubtedly the Savior walked along this road 
after His resurrection from the grave, meeting on the way 
two of His disciples who were earnestly engaged in talking 
of the things which had happened. 

" And it came to pass, that, while they communed to- 
gether and reasoned, Jesus himself drew near, and went with 
them. But their eyes were holden that they should not know 
him. And he said unto them. What manner of communica- 
tions are these that ye have one to another, as ye walk, and 
are sad?" And they answered, not knowing to whom they 
spake, "Art thou a stranger in Jerusalem, and hast not 

1 1 Sam. 1:9— Hand 14, 15, 17. -1 Sam. 1:27, 28. 



THE EOAD TO EMMAUS. 



323 



known the things which are come to pass there in these days? 
And he said unto them, What things? And they said unto 
him, Concerning Jesus of Nazareth, which was a prophet 
mighty in deed and word before God and all the people." 

What an acknowledgement of Christ this was, as they 
opened their hearts to Him in complaint! He said unto 
them, "O fools, and slow of heart to believe all that the 




"ABIDE WITH US; FOR IT IS TOWARD EVENING." 

prophets have spoken: ought not Christ to have suffered 
these things, and to enter into his glory? " And He began to 
expound unto them the Scriptures. "And they drew nigh to 
the village, whither they went: and he made as though he 
would have gone further. But they constrained him, saying. 
Abide with us; for it is toward evening, and the day is far 
spent. And he went in to tarry with them. And it came to 



324 AROUND THE GLOBE. - 

pass as he sat at meat with them, he took bread and blessed 
it, and brake, and gave to them. And their eyes were opened 
and they knew him, and he vanished out of their sight. And 
they said one to another. Did not our heart burn within us 
while he talked with us by the way, and while he opened to 
us the Scriptures?" ' 

We were admitted into the enclosed walls of the ancient 
grounds, where, on one side, is a convent. We were well 
entertained by the priests, and kindly shown the different 
places of interest. Leading us out into the yards they 
pointed out to us the place where the ancient buildings stood. 
There is at present nothing left but ruins of stone structures 
and immense stone floors. The spot was shown where the 
table stood when the Lord blessed the bread and vanished 
out of their sight. ^ 

We were all very tired by this time, but while we were 
thinking of the events of long years ago, when Jesus and the 
disciples walked over these same roads, we forgot all our 
weariness. 

On bidding the priests adieu, we took our course for 
Jerusalem. The day was by this time far spent, and we 
hurried along. Coming down the valley we saw the place, 
where, according to tradition, David picked up out of the 
brook the stones with which he slew the giant, while on one 
mountain were the Israelites and on the other the Philistines.^ 

The country is hilly and barren, and without much inter- 
est, were it not for the wonderful Bible facts which make 
every step so interesting, instructing and inspiring. We 
soon reached the Jaffa road, very weary and fatigued, but 
grateful in heart to God for the wonderful blessings and priv- 
ileges bestowed; we arrived at our hotel about 7:30 P. M. 

1 Luke 24:15—32. 2 Luke 24:31. ^ j Sam. 17:40. 



STAETING FOR JOPPA. 327 

We then spent some weeks in and about Jerusalem, 
visiting the many places of interest; talking with many peo- 
ple about the country and what happened in different local- 
ities; tracing the travels and wanderings of our Lord and 
Master from place to place; hearing many traditions, some 
unquestionably of doubtful origin; reading from the Holy 
Book passages that were appropriate to certain places and 
occasions; knowing that this is the land which God had 
promised to His people, and that they lived and ruled here; 
realizing that here His only begotten Son came upon earth 
to save fallen humanity, and just where He ought to have 
found His own He was despised and rejected, but at last 
overcame His enemies and their conspiracies, ascended to 
His Father, and now we await His second coming — all these 
things taken together create an impression upon one which 
is beyond the power of words to express. 

On the 16th of April, in company with our friend, R. 
Poweck, we started for Joppa. We had formed many pleas- 
ant acquaintances during our stay in Jerusalem, and our 
parting with friends was tinged with sadness. As the train 
moved slowly out amid the waving of handkerchiefs and the 
shedding of tears, it reminded us of a funeral procession. A 
feeling akin to that experienced by a child leaving home for 
the first time came upon us. The poet expresses a fine sen- 
timent when he says: 

" We will meet you in the city 
Of the New Jerusalem." 
On the other hand, after being away from our dear ones 
at home so long a time, it caused us joy to realize that instead 
of sailing farther away, we were going in the direction of 
" home." 




CHAPTER XXXVII. 

Mount Carmel. 

leaving joppa— haifa (acre)— mount carmel— elijah's castle 
— phcenicia— baal worshipers, 

OPPA is the seaport of Jerusalem and the 
place from which we sailed for Haifa, a dis- 
tance requiring about five hours sailing. The 
sea was calm and the air was cool. We left 
Joppa about midnight, arriving at Haifa early in the morning. 
Haifa is located at the foot of Mount Carmel, across the 
beautiful bay from Acre, or Accho, as it was called in Bible 
times. 

The tribe of Asher did not succeed in driving out the 
inhabitants of Accho. ^ A Jewish colony was afterwards 
established in this town, yet most of the citizens remained 
heathen. Accho was considered by the Greeks to belong to 
Phoenicia. It was afterwards called Ptolemais by one of the 
Ptolemies, and was important as a seaport. By Roman 
authors, and on coins, the place is represented as a colony 
of the Emperor Claudius. St. Paul once spent a day at Ptole- 
mais,^ and during its later Christian period the place became 
an episcopal see, the names of several of the bishops being 
handed down to us as members of various councils. 

Haifa has about 7,250 inhabitants. A German colony is 
located here. The Europeon part of the town is very clean 

1 Judges 1:31. 2^cts21:7. 



MOUNT CARMEL. 331 

and attractive, vineyards having been planted on Mount 
Carmel by the Germans. 

Mount Carmel has a very historical connection. It was 
situated on the south frontier of the tribe of Asher, and is 
frequently mentioned in the Bible. Mount Carmel is a ridge 
stretching in a north-western direction for about fifteen miles 
from the Plain of Esdraelon, till it terminates at the Bay of 
Acre, which forms its southern boundary. Some of its peaks 
are 1,700 feet above the level of the sea. Its steep slopes 
are covered with forests and thick jungles, the dark colors 
of which make the chain conspicuous among the surround- 
ing white limestone mountains. At its foot the river Kishon 
enters the sea. Mount Carmel abounds with caves. The proph- 
ets Elijah and Elisha frequently found refuge among them. 
The peak is now called "The place of burning." Here Eli- 
jah challenged the priests of Baal to prove by fire from 
heaven that Baal was the true God; but there was no re- 
sponse, although they cut themselves with knives, crying, 
"O Baal, hear us." Elijah then offered sacrifice to the Lord, 
and fire from heaven consumed the whole burnt offering. 
The people fell on their faces, exclaiming, "The Lord, He 
is the God." Down below is the river Kishon, to which 
Elijah told the people to take the prophets, and where he 
slew them. The ruins of an old castle mark the location ac- 
cording to tradition where the slaughter of the prophets of 
Baal took place. 

While Elijah prayed for rain on top of Mount Carmel, 
he told his servants to look out towards the sea. At first 
they saw a little cloud rising from it, "like a man's hand;" 
but it swelled till "the heaven was black with clouds," and 
there was a very great rain. 



332 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

The aboriginal inhabitants regarded the mount as sacred, 
and at a very early period it was called the Mount of God.* 
The beauty of Carmel is also extolled in the Bible. ^ 

PH(ENICIA. 

Phoenicia was a tract of country lying north of 
Palestine, along the coast of the Mediterranean, and ex- 
tending eastward to Lebanon. Its limits varied at different 
times. It may be said to have extended 200 miles northward 
from Acre, with an average breadth of fifteen miles. 

Conder says of the Phoenicians: ""This strong and clever 
people, who in the later times had all the trade of the Mediter- 
ranean in their hands, are said to have come from the mouth 
of the Euphrates. They already traded with Egypt before 
the time of Moses, and it is probable that the introduction 
of the alphabet, not only into Palestine, but also into Greece, 
is due to the Phoenicians, 

"We know that the Hebrews, at least as early as the 
d'dys of Hezekiah (726 B. C), and probably much earlier, 
together with the Moabites and the Phoenicians, used an 
alphabet which was so simple and practically useful that it 
gradually superseded the clumsy characters of the Egyptians 
and which has spread in various forms westward all over 
Europe and America, and in the East throughout Asia and 

India." The Phoenician language very much resembled the 
Hebrew. 

The Phoenicians, like the Hindoos, were a very religious 
people. Every person bore a religious name, placing himself 
under the protection of some god or goddess, as Abibaal 
(Baal is my father), Baleazar (Baal protects). Each city 
was under the protection of some deity. The ships carried 

' 1 Kings 18: 19—36.; ^ xsa. 35: 2; Song of Solomon 7: 5. 



BELIGION OF THE PHCENICIANS. 33S 

images of the gods at the prow. Their chief deities we 
Baal and Ashtoreth supposed to represent the sun and moon, 
and Molech. 

The religion had two horrible rites. Virgins prostituted 
themselves in the temple as a work of merit. Human sacri- 
fices were frequently made. In times of danger, children 
were offered by their parents to Molech. This large brazen 
image was heated to a glow by fire within. The victims 
were placed by their parents in the arms of the image from 
which they rolled into the fiery lap below. First-born, or only 
sons, or virgin daughters were deemed especially acceptable 
to the divinities. When Carthage, a famous city in northern 
Africa, founded by the Phoenicians, was besieged, 200 chil- 
dren of the noblest families were thus sacrificed. 

The prophet Micah, in the Old Testament, thus de- 
scribed the worship acceptable to God, "Wherewith shall 
I come before the Lord, and bow myself before the 
high God ? Shall 1 come before him with burnt offerings, 
with calves of a year old ? Will the Lord be pleased with 
thousands of rams, or with ten thousands of rivers of oil ? 
Shall 1 give my first-born "for my transgression, the fruit of 
my body for the sin of my soul ? He hath shewed thee,' O 
man, what is good; and what doth the Lord require of thee, 
but to do justly, and to love mercy, and to walk humbly 
with thy God."^ 
' Micah 6:6—8. 




CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
Tyre and Sidon. 

ANCIENT RUINS — BIBLE TIMES — CROWNING CITY — BOBBED OF ITS 
TREASURES — TOP OF A ROCK — ZAREPHATH. 

HE two chief cities of Phoenicia were Tyre and 
Sidon. To these cities the Lord Jesus referred 
when He began to upbraid the cities wherein 
most of His mighty works were done, be- 
cause they repented not: "Woe unto thee, Chorazin! Woe 
unto thee, Bethsaida! for if the mighty works, which 
were done in you, had been done in Tyre and Sidon, they 
would have repented long ago in sackcloth and ashes." ' 

Tyre was a rich and flourishing city in the days of 
Solomon. Even earlier, in the time of Joshua, it was called 
"the strong city Tyre."^ It was a seaport town, with a 
fine harbor. Most of the sailors in the world at that time 
belonged to Tyre. The ships of Tyre sailed to every port 
in the Mediterranean, some went even to Britain for its tin. 
In the markets of Tyre were to be found the choicest prod- 
ucts of every country in the world — fine linen, spices, 
ivory, gold, silver and other metals, and precious stones. ^ 
It was called "the crowning city, whose merchants are^ 
princes." * 

While Tyre was in the height of its prosperity, its ruin 
was prophesied by Ezekiel, He foretold that ' 'they shall break 
1 Matt; 11 : 21. '' Joshua 19: 29. ^ Ezekiel 27. ■* Isa. 23: 8. 



TYEE. 



335 



down thy walls, and destroy thy pleasant houses: and they 
shall lay thy stones and thy timber and thy dust in the midst 
of the water."' Nebuchadnezzar, king of Babylon, came 




{Original Photo.) 
CONVENT OF ST. ELIAS, NEAR JERICHO. 

with a great army and besieged Tyre. The siege lasted thir- 
teen years. When the people found that the city would be 
1 Ezek. 26: 12. 



3?6 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

taken they went over in their ships to the island, where 
they built a new city, the present one. They carried every- 
thing of value from the old city and left it empty. Nebuchad- 
nezzar in his anger broke down the walls and destroyed the 
pleasant houses, as the prophet had predicted. 

New Tyre became richer and stronger than the old city. 
Being on an island, an army could not reach it. Some 
centuries later when Alexander the Great was on his way to 
the East, he resolved to conquer the island city of New 
Tyre. As he had no ships he set his army to building a 
road out into the sea to reach the island on which Tyre 
stood. In making this causeway he employed the ruins 
of old Tyre, carrying them away, and throwing them into 
the sea. Thus were the words fulfilled, "Thy stones and 
thy timber shall be laid in the midst of the water." Alexan- 
der did not entirely destroy the city, and it existed for hun- 
dreds of years afterward. 

Its utter ruin, however, had also been foretold. God 
said He would make it like the top of a rock, a place to 
spread nets upon.^ This was also fulfilled; for many years 
it was nothing but a miserable fishing village called Tsur. It 
now contains about 4,000 inhabitants. 

Zarephath was a seaport about fifteen miles north of 
Tyre. The name means melting place for metals. During a 
long famine in Israel, the prophet Elijah was miraculously 
supported by a widow here, whose son also he restored to 
life.^ The place was called by the Greeks Sarepta.* It is said 
to have received its name Sidon from the eldest son of 
Canaan.* Sidon appears to have been older than Tyre, for 
the latter is not mentioned with it in Gen. 10: 15—18 and is 

1 Ezek. 26: 14. « 1 Kings 17: 9— 24. ^ Luke 4: 26. * Gen. 10: 15. 



SIDON. 337 

called her daughter.' In Joshua it is called "Great Zidon."^ 
It prospered and was inferior only to Tyre, but its ruin was 
also foretold.^ 

It was destroyed by Artaxerxes Ochus, king of Persia, 
350 B. C. It was afterwards rebuilt, but it never rose to 
eminence. The present city is called Saida. The harbor is 
choked up with sand, and its trade is inconsiderable, being 
chiefly noted for its fruit. 

' Isa. 23: 12. 2 jogh. 11; 18. 3 ^zek. 28: 21-23. 




PLOWING AND SOWING IN THE ORIENT, 



22 




CHAPTER XXXIX. 

Nazareth and Hills of Galilee. 

KISHON — HOME OF ZEBEDEE — NAZARETH — HOME OF JESUS — SHEEP 

AND GOATS — STREETS — ST. MARY'S WELL — MOUNT TABOR — 

HILLS OF GALILEE — BEDOUIN CAMPS — TIBERIAS — 

SEA OF GALILEE — A NIGHT OF MISERY. 

PARTY of four was soon organized and with 
a carriage and a driver left Haifa for Naza- 
reth, Tiberias, and the Sea of Galilee. The 
distance to Nazareth is twenty-three and one 
half miles or one day's drive, the road leading through the 
well cultivated plain of the Kishon; here we went through a 
grove of oak trees which are very rare in this country. Many 
ruins of old villages are seen. 

About four miles from Haifa we came to the beautiful 
village of Yafa, the Japhia of Joshua 19:12, on the borders 
of Zebulun. A tradition arose in the middle ages that the 
home of Zebedee and his sons James and John was situated 
here. The ruins of old homes are seen on every hand in 
which Bible characters were born, lived and died. 

Nazareth broke suddenly into view and we descended by 
a good road into the town. Here we halted for the night. 
Nazareth lies a few miles north-west of Mount Tabor. It 
stands on the western side of a valley, and rises a little way 
up the slope of a hill. 



THE HOME OE JESUS. 341 

One fountain seems to have been the main if not the 
only source of water supply for the inhabitants. It was to 
this fountain no doubt that Mary the mother of Jesus came, 
day by day, amon^ the village maidens, to fill her pitcher. 
At Nazareth the angel Gabriel appeared to Mary and fore- 
told the birth of her Son.^ The fear of a cruel king drove 
Joseph and Mary to Nazareth, and there Jesus was brought 
up till He began His public ministry. No event in His his- 
tory while living here is recorded except the journey to 
Jerusalem.^ 

After the baptism of Jesus and His teaching in Galilee, 
He came to Nazareth, and, as His custom was, went into the 
synagogue on the Sabbath day, and stood up to read, His 
words exciting such anger that those who heard Him "thrust 
him out of the city, and led him unto the brow of the hill 
whereon their city was built, that they might cast him down 
headlong." But He passed through the midst of them and 
went His way.^ 

The Savior was called "Jesus of Nazareth," because He 
had lived there so long. The city was small and despised. 
"Can any good thing come out of Nazareth?" asked Na- 
thanael.* 

In the time of Christ the hills around were no doubt 
terraced and cultivated to their summits. They are now 
bare, but they yield pasture for flocks of sheep and goats. 
Jesus, in one of His addresses, spoke of the separation of the 
sheep from the goats. ^ The goats, traveling faster than the 
sheep and thriving on a scantier vegetation, are driven to the 
mountain tops, while the sheep feed on the richer herbage 
below. 

1 Luke 1:26—28. - Luke 2:40—52. ^ Luke 4:16—30. 

* John 1:46. ^ Matt. 25:33. 



342 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

The town now contains about 5,000 inhabitants, mostly 
Christians. Two monasteries are here, one of the Greek, the 
other of the Latin rites, containing a large number of monks. 
All those given as Christians should be considered as a whole. 
In the Orient it is not this name or that by which Christians 
are known, but the principal question is, " Are you a Chris- 
tian?" because Heathens, Mohammedans and Jews all reject 
Christ as a Savior, while the Greeks, Latins, Armenians, 
Coptics, Franciscans and Protestants are all called "Chris- 
tians" because they believe that Christ is the Savior of the 
world. 

The streets in Nazareth are very poor; in fact this is the 
case throughout the Turkish domain. In the principal street 
of Nazareth, the gutter, instead of being one on each side, as 
is the case in American towns, was in the middle of the street, 
and, as the traveling v^as difficult, we were all compelled 
to get out and walk, one and sometimes two of us being 
required to hold the wagon to keep it from falling over. 

Over these hills and valleys and perhaps on these very 
streets the blessed feet of Jesus trod during His boyhood, and 
the well called "St. Mary's well" was no doubt frequently 
visited by Him when a child. 

In a short time after leaving Nazareth we were in a valley 
with Mt. Tabor in our front, and in about fifteen minutes 
more we were at the base of the hill. To our right in the 
valley below we saw the ancient Daberath.^ 

Mount Tabor was situated on the frontier of Issachar 
and Zebulun. It was here that Deborah directed Barak to 
assemble an army, and from hence the Israelites marched into 
the plain and defeated Sisera.^ In the Psalms, Tabor and 

1 Josh. 19:12. 2 Judges 4. 



SCENES IN GALILEE. 



MS 



Hermon are extolled together.' Origen and St. Jerome speak 
of Mt. Tabor as the scene of the transfiguration.- There are 
three chapels built there in memory of t^^e three tabernacles 
which St. Peter wished to build. 

Passing along we saw many sheep and goats pasturing 
on the hills of Galilee. The hills were dotted with the numer- 
ous camps of 
Bedouins. The 
Sea of Galilee 
was before us, 
and as we as- 
cended the hills 
coming around 
the curves we 
were in Tiberias. 
By this time it 
was evening and 
the party were 
much wearied, 
and arrange- 
ments were at 
once made for 
night quarters. 
It was a pleas- 
ant evening, the 
moon and stars were shining, the sea was calm and the 
water as clear as crystal. Tiberias is built down to the 
waters, it being only a few rods from the hotel to the sea. 
We had the pleasure of bathing in that noted body of water. 
The name Galilee^ was originally applied to the highlands 
1 Psalms 89:13. ^ Mark 9:2—10. ^ jg^. 9:i^ and Matt. 4:15. 




{Original Photo). 
BEDOUIN WOMEN. 



344 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

only which extended from north of the lake of Gennes- 
aret to the west. The tribes of Asher, Zebulun, and Issachar 
who dwelt here were carried into captivity like their kinsmen, 
but the land was colonized anew after the captivity, by Jews 
from the South. The population, however, retained its 
mixed character, and the name Galilee was extended to in- 
clude the whole province lyino; between the plain of Jezreel 
and the river Litany. The north part was called Upper Gali- 
lee, to the south of which was Lower Galilee. 

The country was famed for its fertility, rich pastures and 
luxuriant forest trees being its chief features. The tract situ- 
ated to the west of the lake was the most beautiful part of 
the country. In the Roman period, Galilee formed a separate 
province and was densely peopled. 

The Jewish element still continued predominant, but 
was more affected by foreign influences than in Judea. The 
language also varied from that spoken in Judea. ^ The Jews 
of this district seem to have been less strict and less ac- 
quainted with the law than those of Judea, by whom they 
were consequently despised. Their revolt against the Romans 
in A. D. 67 proved, however, that their national spirit was 
still as strong as that of their brethren. 

Galilee attained the height of its prosperity about the 
time of Christ. Sepphoris had for a time been its chief town; 
but Herod Antipas, who was not less splendor-loving than 
his father Herod the Great, determined to build a new and 
magnificent capital. His dominions at this time embraced 
Galilee and Perea, which however were separated by the 
Decapolis. Tiberias has a population of 3,700 which are of 
different nationalities and different religions. 

1 Matt. 26:73. 



A NIGHT IN TIBEEIAS. 



345 



The night was spent, but not without being disturbed by 
the noise of the natives, donkeys and dogs, and the attentions 
of fleas, for which Tiberias is noted. Arabs say the king of 
fleas resides here; consequently a part of the night was spent 
in a wakeful state, as is the custom in that country. As they 
have flat roofs on their houses, and they are easy of access, I 
spent a part of the time on the roof. My position com- 
manded a magnificent view of the sea, which helped to vary 
the monotony of waiting for morning. 

Finally morning came, and after partaking heartily of 
breakfast consisting of fish from the Sea of Galilee, which 
had been ordered the previous evening, the day was spent on 
the sea and visiting the ancient rains along its shores. 





CHAPTER XL. 

Sea of Galilee and Adjacent Points. 

GENNESARET — DESCRIPTION— MAGDALA — CAPERNAUM — CHORAZIN— 

BETHSAIDA — SEA OF GALILEE — PLAIN OF THE FIVE 

THOUSAND— CANA OF THE BIBLE — SAUL'S 

BATTLE-GROUND — ARABS PLOWING. 

"AKE Tiberias was anciently called the lake of 
Gennezar or Gennesaret, from the plain at its 
north-west end bearing that name. This is the 
place where the herd of swine ran into the 
sea and were drowned.' The greatest length of the 
lake is thirteen miles, and the greatest width nearly six miles. 
The banks are beautifully green early in the spring. The 
hills surrounding this beautiful blue body of water are of 
moderate height, and the scenery is enlivened by a few 
villages. 

The sea is sometimes visited by violent storms. We 
learn from the Gospels that the lake was once navigated by 
numerous vessels, but there are now only a few miserable 
fishing boats here. The water is used for drinking purposes 
by all of the inhabitants there about and has a slight brack- 
ish taste. It is cooled by being placed in porous jars and 
allowed to stand over night. 

Magdala is a town north of Tiberias and at the south 
end of the plain of Gennesaret. The name means tower. It 
was the city of Mary Magdalene, and here Jesus Christ 
1 Luke 8: 33. 



THKEE ANCIENT CITIES. 349 

landed after feeding the multitude on the opposite bank. 
Mary Magdalene, on whom Jesus had performed a wonder- 
ful cure, ministered to Him of her substance, stood by His 
cross, went to His sepulchre, and was the first to welcome 
Him when He rose from the dead.' At present there are in 
existence only the ruins of a tower and heaps of rubbish, 
among which about twenty mud-built cottages stand. 

Capernaum, Chorazin and Bethsaida were three cities 
on the northern end of the lake. The exact position of 
Capernaum is disputed. It is generally supposed to have 
been not far west of the Jordan inlet, where there are at 
present many ruins and large blocks of stone. A convent is 
built here in memory of the ancient Capernaum. Here we 
ate our lunch, there being six of us besides the boatman. 

Jesus Christ was so often in Capernaum that it is called 
His own city.^ Here He commenced His public ministry, 
and often taught in the synagogue.^ Here He healed Peter's 
wife's mother,* the nobleman's son,^ the centurion's serv- 
ant,® and raised from the dead the ruler's daughter.' The 
ruins of a synagogue are still visible. 

Chorazin stood on a hill about two and a half miles 
north of the supposed site of Capernaum. The remnants of 
the houses are partly in a shallow valley with some on a 
rocky spur. 

Bethsaida, "House of Fishing," was the city of Andrew, 
Peter and Philip.^ Its exact position is uncertain. 

In these three cities Jesus had performed great miracles, 
yet, on account of their unbelief, they were to be destroyed. 
Only a few ruins mark the places where they are supposed 

1 Luke 8 : 2, 3. ^ ^att. 9:1. ^ John 6 : 59. * Matt. 8 : 14. 
6 John 4 : 46. " ]^att. 8:5,6. ' Matt. 9 : 18—25. « John 1 : 44. 



350 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

to have stood. They are an awful warning to those who 
refuse or neglect God's offered salvation through Jesus 
Christ. Jesus said: "Woe unto thee, Chorazin! woe unto 
thee, Bethsaida! for if the mighty works, which were done 
in you, had been done in Tyre and Sidon, they would have 

repented And thou, Capernaum, which art exalted unto 

heaven, shalt be brought down to hell: for if the mighty 
works, which have been done in thee, had been done in 
Sodom, it would have remained until this day." And now 
the teachings and prophecies have all been fulfilled.' 

The weather being very warm and the water clear and 
<30ol, there was nothing more enjoyable than a bath in this 
beautiful lake. 

The lake is subject to sudden storms which sweep down 
:from the hills by which it is surrounded. At about 2 P. M. 
while we were at Capernaum our boatman became alarmed, as 
the wind began to blow and the waters raged. He called 
for all the passengers to get aboard and return to Tiberias 
at once, as it would be impossible to return if the storm be- 
oame more severe. The storm however soon subsided, and 
all fears vanished. How often do we read of the storms on 
the sea of Galilee! 

Jesus at one time performed a great miracle at the north 
«nd of the lake, east of the Jordan inlet, where there is a 
beautiful plain sloping towards the sea. Here Jesus fed 
a great multitude with five loaves and two fishes, and there 
was enough for all, about five thousand men, besides women 
and children. After such a great number had eaten, there 
were twelve baskets full of fragments left.^ 

"And straightway Jesus constrained his disciples to 
^et into a ship, and to go before him unto the other side, 

1 Matt. 11:21—23. ^ ^att. 14:20, 21. 



JESUS WALKING ON THE SEA. 



351 



while he sent the multitudes away." And Jesus went up 
into the mountain to pray. By evening the ship in which 
the disciples were crossing the water was in the midst of the 
sea, tossed by the waves, "for the wind was contrary." 

Towards morning "Jesus went unto them, walking on 
the sea." And when the disciples saw Him walking on the 
sea they were afraid and cried out, "It is a spirit," and were 




FEEDING THE FIVE THOUSAND. 

in trouble; but Jesus, knowing their condition, spoke unto 
them, saying, "Be of good cheer, it is 1, be not afraid." 
When Peter knew that it was the Lord, he wanted to go to 
Him on the sea. Jesus said, "Come" and Peter left the ship, 
but soon began to sink, because he looked at the winds and 
the roughness of the sea instead of looking to Jesus. So 
often we, by looking away from Christ to the storms and 



352 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

raging winds of life, lose our hold by doubting, and we 
sink. 

Jesus heard and helped when Peter cried: "Lord save 
me." And so He will hear us when we call upon Him. Jesus 
stretched forth His hand, and caught him, and said unto 
him, "O thou of little faith." 

Is it not true, dear reader, that Jesus has often grasped 
our hands just in time to keep us from sinking; if it were 
not for this Holy One we would soon be lost in despair. He 
grasps the sinking, heals the sick, feeds the hungry, opens 
the eyes of the blind, and brings back to life the dead, and 
through Him all may receive the forgiveness of past sins, and 
become heirs of God and joint heirs with Christ. Then we can 
say with the Apostle Paul: "He that spared not his own 
Son, but delivered him up for us all, how shall he not with 
him also freely give us all things?" ' "Nay, in all these things 
we are more than conquerors through him that loved us."^ 

The next day, April 23d, we started over the hills of 
Galilee 'towards the Cana of the Bible, where Jesus per- 
formed His first miracle, turning water into wine. Cana of 
Galilee is a small town near Nazareth, where Jesus with all 
His disciples and His mother were invited to a marriage. 
They had no wine, and Jesus, knowing what was to come, 
waited until they had set six water pots of stone, after the 
manner of the purifying of the Jews. Then "Jesus saith unto 
them. Fill the water pots with water," and they filled them to 
the brim. Jesus told them to "draw out now," and when it 
was drawn and tasted, it was wine. The ruler of the feast 
saith, "Every man at the beginning doth set forth good 
wine, but thou hast kept the good wine until now." This 
1 Rom. 8:32. ''5101^18.37 



AGRICULTURE IN THE ORIENT. 353 

miracle did Jesus in Cana of Galilee and then went to 
Capernaum and from there to Jerusalem, for the Passover of 
the Jews was at hand/ 

The village of Nain, where the Lord Jesus raised the 
widow's son and gave him to his mother, is located to 
our left.^ 

The valle}'' is cultivated in a very indifferent manner, 
but crops, wheat principally, looked well. Many stones the 
size of a peck and a half bushel measure are very thickly 
scattered over the cultivated land; but they could easily be 
removed by a little work. 

Arabs plow with bullocks, while plenty of good horses 
are seen on pasture. The plow is a very simple structure, 
a bent beam or pole which extends forward to the cattle with 
an upright piece perpendicularly attached to which is fast- 
ened a kind of point that throws the ground on both sides. 
In this country of systematic plowing, and farming, it would 
be condemn'ed at once. The Arab walks along with one hand 
to the plow. In the other he carries a whip with which to 
drive the bullocks. This is the oriental way of plowing, be- 
ing used in Palestine, Asia Minor, Egypt and India. 

We returned to Haifa on the third day, in the evening, 
where we expected to take the steamer for Beirut, We felt 
grateful to God for what we had seen and heard. Often the 
desire arose that we might have with us a number of our 
beloved ones at home to help us store the information to be 
gathered in these travels. 

1 John 2. ^ Luke 7: 11—13. 



^^^^U.^<;^ 



23 





CHAPTER XLi. 
Beirut and Damascus. 

BEIRUT — DILIGENCE — RAILROAD — LEBANON MOUNTAINS — MOUNT 

HERMON— DRUSES— MASSACRING MARONITES— EUROPEAN 

COMMISSION— DA MASCUS— HISTORY. 

EIRUT is the seaport of Damascus, which is 
about seventy miles distant, beyond the Leb- 
anon mountains. It was one of the ancient 
Phoenician towns where the so-called dwellers 
on mountains had one of their strongholds. Berytus and 
Byblus were their two towns located at the foot of Mt. 
Lebanon. In 1840 the population of Beirut was only about 
8,000; it is now about 80,000, chiefly Christians. The increase 
is largely due to the settlement here of refugees after the 
Mohammedan massacre of Christians in Damascus and Leb- 
anon, in 1860. 

Beirut is the most flourishing seaport on the coast of 
Syria. It has a regular service of Egyptian, French, and 
English steamers. A French company is constructing a 
new railway from Beirut to Damascus. 

American missionaries have established in Beirut the 
Syrian Protestant College, and a large printing office in 
which books are printed in Arabic and other languages. 
English missionaries have an institution here in which to 
train teachers for the Lebanon schools. 



LEBANON MOUNTAINS. 357 

The railway from Beirut to Damascus was not yet com- 
pleted, and the easiest way of making the trip was by the 
" Diligence," a system operated by a French company, that 
runs regular conveyances every day and night. Leaving 
Beirut in the morning, we were at Damascus in the evening 
of the same day. They have six horses attached to the 
omnibus or hack, and drive at a recklessly high rate of speed, 
changing horses about every five miles. The change is 
quickly made, the driver giving the signal of his approach to 
one of the stations with a series of blasts on a horn. The 
fresh horses are made ready and brought out before our ar- 
rival; then they are quickly attached and the journey is 
resumed. Horses were changed twelve times between Beirut 
and Damascus. 

The applications for transportation are so numerous that 
a passage must be procured a da}^ or two and sometimes a 
week before going over the Lebanon and the Anti Lebanon 
mountains. 

It was from these mountains that the timber was brought 
to Jerusalem for the construction of the temple. The tops 
of the mountains were covered with snow, especially Mount 
Hermon with its snowy peak 9,050 feet high. The Arabs say 
that Lebanon carries winter upon its head, spring upon its 
shoulders, summer in its bosom, while autumn lies sleeping 
at its feet. 

The range is composed of four distinct courses of mount- 
ains, ris ing one above the other. The first, or lowest, is 
fertile, and abounds with grain and fruit; the second is barren 
and burned; the third enjoys perpetual spring, while the 
fourth, or highest, is covered with perpetual snow, where 
winter, with its cold and frost, continuously reigns, 



358 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

Sannin, the most conspicuous summit, is about 8,500 
feet high, and generally snowclad, while clear cold water 
flows down its sides, very refreshing in a hot country. 
Hence the Scripture comparison, " Will a man leave the snow 
of Lebanon which cometh from the rock of the field, or shall 
the cold flowing waters that come from another place be for- 
saken?"' 

Lebanon was famous in ancient times for its cedars, a 
noble tree somewhat like the walnut, the poplar, and oak 
in our country for size and usefulness. Some of these cedars 
have been measured, showing forty-five feet in girth, while 
their huge branches stretched out fifty-eight paces from side 
to side. The wood is firm and very durable. It also has a 
fragrant odor which seems to have been alluded to when 
speaking of the smell of Lebanon.^ At present there are 
only a few groves of the trees; in ancient times they were 
far more abundant. 

The inhabitants of Mount Lebanon are principally 
Druses and Maronites. The belief of the Druses is that when 
men die they are born again in a human birth according to 
their merit. Unlike the Mohammedans, they do not pray, 
this being regarded as an interference with the works of the 
Creator. Mutual protection and hatred of all others is their 
animating feeling. In some respects they resemble Moham- 
medans. They never taste wine or tobacco, a practice which 
would be a credit and a blessing to the people of this country. 
Women are veiled; they are divorced by telling them three 
times that they had better go back to their mothers. 

Damascus, with Hebron, is claimed to be one of the oldest 
cities on the earth, and dates back very near to the flood. It 
is claimed by many to cover the site of the Garden of Eden. 

1 Jer. 18:14. 2 Hos. 14:6. 



HISTORY OF DAMASCUS. 359 

Jews, Christians and Moslems have different legends regard- 
ing the origin of the city. 

David conquered the town after a bloody war, as it was 
allied whith his enemy the king of Zobah, and placed a gar- 
rison in it.' Daring the reign of Solomon, an adventurer, 
called Rezon, succeeded in making himself king of Damascus. 
The history of the northern kingdom of Israel, as regards its 
foreign policy, is almost exclusively occupied with its rela- 
tion to Damascus.^ Several of these princes bore the name of 
Benhadad. 

The most formidable enemy of Israel was Hazael, whose 
usurpation of the Syrian throne appears to have been pro- 
moted by Elijah and Elisha.^ Owing to the hostilities between 
the two Jewish kingdoms, the Damascenes could attack 
Israel unopposed. Hazael devastated the country east of 
Jordan, crossed that river, captured the town of Gath, and 
made the king of Judah pay dearly for the immunity of Jeru- 
salem from siege.* Benhadad III. , the son of Hazael, was 
less successful than his father had been.^ Jeroboam II. suc- 
ceeded in recapturing the former Jewish territory from 
Damascus.® Shortly afterwards we find Pekah, king of Israel, 
in alliance with Rezin of Damascus against Jotham, king of 
Judah. They marched against Jerusalem, but had very little 
success against Ahaz, although he was compelled to restore 
the seaport of Elath on the Red Sea to the Syrians.' Ahaz 
invited the Assyrians to aid him against the Syrians. These 
allies subdued one after the other of the three kingdoms in 
detail, the rulers of which should have united their forces 
against the common enemy, 

1 2 Sam. 8:5, 6. ^ i Kings 15 and 20. « 2 Kings 8:8—15. ♦ 2 Kings 12:18, 
52Kings 13:25. "gKings 14:28. • 2Kings lti:5, (>. 




CHAPTER XLII. 
Damascus. 

POPULATION— NAAMAN— SAUL'S COKVERSION— STREET CALLED 

STRAIGHT — HOUSE OF ANANIAS— TOMB OF ST. GEORGE 

— WINDOW FROM WHICH PAUL ESCAPED— VISITORS 

IN DAMASCUS— DOGS— MONEYS— OVER THE 

LEBANON MOUNTAINS BY MOON 

LIGHT — TURKISH FUNERAL. 

T is extremely difficult to estimate the popula- 
tion of Damascus, but according to the 
government statistics in 1888, there were 
120,750 inhabitants. The Moslems have in all 
248 mosques and schools. 

Damascus is noted for its rivers and streams from the 
mountains. It was from here that Naaman went to Elisha. 
Naaman was a great man and very honorable, but he was a 
leper. The little maid that was taken captive in the land of 
Israel, and waited on Naaman's wife, said unto her mistress, 
"Would God my lord were with the prophet that is in 
Samaria! for he would recover him of his leprosy." So Naa- 
man, the captain of the host, went, and took with him a great 
price to pay for the service of the prophet. Undoubtedly he 
expected a great reception and much favor; but he was 
disappointed. Elisha sent a messenger unto him, saying, 
"Go and wash in Jordan seven times." Naaman was wroth 
and said, "Are not Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, 
better than all the waters of Israel? may I not wash in them 



HISTORY OF TAMASCUS. 363 

and be clean? So he turned and went away in a ra^e." But 
his servants reasoned with him and he went and washed ac- 
cording as the prophet had told him and he was healed.' 
So all of us, by coming as the Lord requires, may be healed 
from the leprosy of sin. 

It was to Damascus that Saul came to take prisoners all 
such that professed to be followers of the Lord Jesus Christ. 
As we were going around visiting these different places of 
interest we were taken to the supposed place according to 
tradition where Saul was struck down with the great light. ^ 
It was about half a mile beyond the old walls. We also 
went through the street called "Straight,"' and indeed this 
street has the proper name as it is very straight and prin- 
cipally under roof, or covered over with arches made of 
timber and straw or thatch. The spot was shown to us 
where tradition locates the site of the house of Ananias, 
where the Lord appeared to him in a dream, saying that he 
should go to the street called Straight, to the house of 
Judas, and inquire "for one called Saul, of Tarsus: for, behold, 
he prayeth." Ananias came and put his hands on Saul, that 
he might receive his sight. 

We were led to the tomb of St. George, which is much 
revered by the Christians. This saint is said to have assisted 
St. Paul to escape from Damascus, and the window above 
the Turkish wall is still pointed out where the apostle was 
let down in a basket by night.* 

Many curious things are to be seen in the streets of 
Damascus. Donkeys and camels frequently crowd the way, 
while numerous hack drivers and dragomen offering their 
services are met on all sides. 

12 Kings 5. ^ Acts 9:3, » Acts 9: 11. * Acts 9:25. 



364 



AROUND THE GLOBE. 



One peculiar thing here in Damascus, as in all other 
oriental towns, is the large number of dogs on the streets. 
In front of the hotel eleven were counted at one time, and, 
in going through the town, at another place where the 
street makes a curve thirty-five were counted, and by going 
a little further fifty dogs of all sizes, colors, descriptions and 
ages were seen, nearly all having the appearance of being 
half starved. These dogs have no owners and no homes bu^t 
are simply roving round town in search of food, and lying 
around in the sunshine in front of some of the shops and 
business houses, while pedestrians must either go around or 
step over them, without disturbing them in the least. Oc- 
casionally when one is accidentally trampled upon you hear a 
growl, and at times they are engaged in fighting each other. 
On the whole, this is a very unpleasant thing with which 
strangers have to contend. In Palestine, as in India, dogs 
are considered sacred to some extent. 

It is no wonder the Scriptures refer so often to dogs. 
As in the case of the poor man Lazarus, "moreover the dogs 
came and licked his sores." They are also referred to tn 
terms of abomination and reproach, and as enemies, im- 
prudent and false. The apostle admonishes,^ "Beware of 
dogs," as false teachers, ignorant and dumb, sleeping, ly- 
ing down, loving to slumber. Isaiah speaks of th^m as 
"greedy dogs which can never have enough." ^ 

Through the entire dominion of Turkey the value of 
money is very deceptive as there are so many different 
kinds in circulation and it varies in value at almost every 
point we visited- Cairo, Joppa, Jerusalem, Haifa, Beirut and 
Damascus. While there are a number of money changers in 
1 Phil. 3:2. ^Isa. 56:11, 



FKOM DAMASCUS TO BEIE-UT. 



865 



all these towns, yet many, if possible, will take advantage 
of travelers. The principal moneys are given in the list of 
money tables in this book; but there are many more in cir- 
calation not mentioned. Here English, French, Swiss and 
Italian money is used at its current rates of exchange. 

As we were somewhat tired on our arrival at Damascus, 
a part of our two weeks' s,ta.j at this place was spent in 
resting. The day hack to Beirut being full, it was neces- 
sary for us to take the night mail, which meant a ride of 



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(Original Photo.) 
A TUIiKISH FUNERAL PKOCESSION. 

about seventy miles over the Lebanon mountains by moon- 
light. The nights arc chilly, especially in the spring, Qin 
consequence of the snow on the mountains. 

On Sunday, May 5th, at Beirut, we attended a Turkish 
funeral of high order. The procession, which consisted ex- 
clusively of men, no women being seen, halted at a large 
church or mosque, and the corpse was taken inside, where 
burning lights were placed all around the casket. Here a 



m 



AEOtJ:ND THE GLOKE. 



Greek service was held, the priest burning incense. Many 
of the spectators exhibited anything but a reverential man- 
ner. After the services in the church, the corpse was put 
into a hearse similar to those in our country, and taken to 
the place of burial. The horses were all covered with 
blankets up to their ears, and each of them was led by a 
footman. No tears were shed by the friends, but a few of 
those in the rear showed expressions of grief. 

Many peculiar looking Jews are seen all through the 
Holy Lands, with their black wooly hats and a long curl of 
hair hanging down at each side of their heads, in front of the 
ears. 








SAUL OF TARSUS STRUCK WITH THE GREAT LIGHT. 




CHAPTER XLIII. 
Beirut to Smyrna and Ephesus. 

TRIPOLI — ORANGE MART — ISLAND OF CYPRUS — LARNAKA — SIMASOL 

—MAN OVERBOARD— ISLAND OF RHODES— CARRYING THEIR 

BEDS— ISLAND OF CHIOS — SMYRNA — BY TRAIN 

TO EPHESUS. 

OUR hours after leaving Beirut on the steamship 
Achille, we reached Tripoli, a town of about 
17,000 inhabitants where the steamer stopped 
for a time to load and unload freight. The 
weather was warm and the sea calm, while the mountains in 
the distance were seen to be covered with snow. In the val- 
ley there is an abundance of fruit grown, such as lemons, 
oranges, etc. Here 2,000 boxes of oranges were taken on 
board and it was thought that each box contained about 
two bushels. 

Our next objective point was the island of Cyprus. 
We arrived at the town of Larnaka, and stopped a short 
time. Cyprus is one of the largest islands in the Mediter- 
ranean. It is about liO miles long, and from five to fifty 
broad. It lies in the east of the Mediterranean. In ancient 
times it was noted for its copper, which is named after the 
island. 

When Paul and Barnabas were living at Antioch, they 
were appointed to be the first Christian missionaries to the 
heathen. They went first to Cyprus, to which place Barnabas 



368 



ABOUND THE GLOBE. 



belonged, landing at Salamis, a large city on the east of the 
island. A great many Jews lived at Salamis, and the apostles 
preached in their synagogues. They then went preaching all 
through the island, till they came to Paphos. Near this 
place stood the temple of Venus, the goddess of love. This 




SEAPORT OF SMYRNA. 



{Original Photo.) 



temple was so celebrated that it was sometimes called the 
" Paphian Goddess," her priestesses were prostitutes. 

The Roman governor, whose name was Sergius Paulus, 
lived at Paphos. He was not satisfied with the false gods of 





(Original I'lwtu.) 
THE RUINS OF THE PRISON OF ST. PAUL, EPHESUS. 



"The keynote of life's harmony is sacrifice." 



What though on peril's front you stand ? 
What though through lone and lonely ways, 

With dusty feet and horny hands. 
You toil unfriended all the days, 
And die at last with man's dispraise ? 

Would you have chosen ease, and so 
Have shunned the fight ? God honored you 

With trust of weighty works. And O, 
The Captain of the heavens knew 
His trusted soldier would prove true. 

— Joaquin Miller. 



24 



CYPEUS. 371 

his country, and wished to learn the truth. When he heard 
of the preaching of Paul and Barnabas, he sent for them. A 
sorcerer, called Elymas, tried to withstand the apostles, but 
he was struck blind. ^ 

The last mention of Cyprus in the New Testament is in 
connection with Paul's voyage to Rome. He sailed under 
Cyprus.^ This island now belongs to Turkey, but the admin- 
istration of public affairs is in the hands of the British 
government. 

Sailing along Cyprus we soon reached another town 
called Simasol. Near this town the country is charming, but 
viewed from the sea it looks mountainous. At this place an 
aged man fell overboard while being transferred to a smaller 
boat. It seemed for a time that he would surely be drowned, 
but by his own heroic struggles and the assistance of others, 
he was finally rescued. The poor man was completely 
exhausted and seemed very grateful for the aid he had 
received. 

Out at sea again, sailing toward the island of Rhodes. 
The morning of May 9th was pleasant, and we gave to God 
all the honor for our safety and His care for us while going 
from one point of Bible interest to another. There were sev- 
eral other Americans aboard including Gen. J. C. Smith and 
daughter, of Chicago, 111., and Mr. Gibson from Georgia, 
U. S. A. We sailed through the Grecian archipelago, where 
many islands were seen on either side. The eastern side 
belongs to Asia Minor, and the western side to Europe. 

On the ship there were many that carried their beds 
with them. It is the custom among many in the Orient for 
each one to carry his own bed, consisting of a blanket or two; 

1 Acts 13:4—13. ^ Acts 27:4. 



372 AROUi^D THE GLoM. 

some carry only pillows to lay their heads upon. This is 
doubtless what is meant when Jesus commanded certain ones 
to "take up thy bed and walk." The customs were not the 
same, however, in the time of Christ as they are in our 
country nor as they are in that country at the present time. 
Passing on past the island of Rhodes without stopping 
we arrived at the island of Chios, ^ and in about six hours 
more we arrived at Smyrna, Asia Minor, the location of one 
of the seven churches.^ 

Smyrna is the largest city in Asia Minor. Christianity 
was early planted here and Polycarp, a disciple of John, and 
bishop of Smyrna, suffered martyrdom about 166 A. D. 
Smyrna is a flourishing commercial city, with many foreign 
merchants. Christians are so numerous that the Turks call 
it "infidel Smyrna." 

About the year 96 A. D., there was a church at this 
place and God was so pleased with its faithfulness that the 
angel spoke to His servant John, on the island, and said, 
write: "I know thy works, and tribulation, and poverty, 
(but thou art rich)." They were poor, stripped, perhaps, of 
all temporal possessions, because in their attachment to the 
gospel, yet rich in faith in the kingdom of Christ; and "I 
know the blasphemy of them which say they are Jews, and 
are not, but are the synagogue of Satan. Fear none of those 
things which thou shalt suffer: behold, the devil shall cast some 
of you into prison, that ye may be tried; and ye shall have 
tribulation ten days: be thou faithful unto death, and 1 will 
give thee a crown of life." ^ 

From here we went to Ephesus, about two hours ride 
from Smyrna, on the railroad. There is a beautiful country 

'Acts 20:25. - llev. 2:8. Uiev. 2:8— 10. 



EPHESUS. 



373 



between Smyrna and Ephesus — hills and valleys and beau- 
tiful landscapes on all sides with here and there ruins of 
castles and forts, and the ruins of ancient aqueducts running 
for miles supported by immense pillars of stone. This being 
my forty-second birthday made it specially interesting to me 
to visit the ruins of this ancient city. 





{Original Photo.] 



RUINS OF THE AQI'EDX^CT, EPHESUS. 




CHAPTEK XLIV. 
Ephesus. 

TEMPLE OF DIANA — PAUL IN EPHESUS — HOME OF ST. JOHN — TOMB 

OF ST, LUKE — RUINS OF MARBLE — MODERN EPHESUS 

— LEAVING FOR GREECE. 

HE most celebrated temple in ancient times was 
that of Diana, or Artemis, at Ephesus. The 
city stood on a hill side, sloping gradually 
into a plain not far from the seacoast. The 
temple was built of white marble, so bright as to dazzle the 
eye. It was 425 feet in length, 220 feet broad and sup- 
ported by 127 columns. The temple was filled with most 
beautiful statues and pictures. 

The first temple was destroyed by fire at the hands of a 
man named Eratostratus, on the same night on which Alexan- 
der the Great was born (356 B. C). When it was asked why 
the goddess allowed such a famous temple to be destroyed, 
it was given out that she was so busily engaged with the 
mother of Alexander, aiding in bringing her son into the 
world, that she had no time or thought for anything else. 

Alexander offered to rebuild the temple, if he were al- 
lowed to inscribe his name on the front, but the Ephesians 
refused. With the help of all the states of Asia Minor, they 
built a temple still more magnificent than that which had 
been destroyed. It was decorated with gold, jewels and 
precious stones and the roof was supported with columns of 



PAUL IN EPHESUS. 375 

green jasper. The second temple was destroyed by the 
Goths, 260 A. D. 

The apostle Paul came to Ephesus when the temple was 
in all its glory, and preached for about three years. There 
were many pretended magicians in the city. They said that 
certain words, called Ephesian letters, copied from the image 
of the goddess, would charm away evil spirits, heal diseases 
and do other wonderful things. Some of these magicians 
came to Paul confessing the tricks they had played and 
burned their books of charms in the streets before all the 
people. Had they decided to dispose of them by sale, they 
might have received 50,000 pieces of silver for them.^ 

Once a year a great feast was held in honor of the god- 
dess, and people flocked to Ephesus from all parts to join in 
it. Strangers often bought small silver models of the temple 
with the idol inside. They looked upon these as charms, able 
to keep them from harm and bring good fortune. The sale 
of these things brought great gain to the silversmiths of 
Ephesus. 

Demetrius, a silversmith, was afraid that he would lose 
his business through Paul's preaching. He persuaded the 
silversmiths to get up a cry, ' 'Great is Diana of the Ephesians. " 
The whole city was in an uproar. The services of the chief 
magistrates were required in quieting the people, telling them 
that there was no need of their out cry, for every one knew 
that Diana was great. ^ Paul afterwards left to visit other 
churches.^ 

When Paul was a prisoner at Rome, he wrote a beauti- 
ful letter to the Ephesian Christians which is recorded in 
the New Testament. He thanked God that they who were 

1 Acts 19: 19. - Acts 19: -^4— 41. ' Acts 20: 1, 



376 



AROUl^D THE GLOBE. 



once in darkness were now in light in the Lord. They 
were to walk as children of light, giving up all their 
former evil doings. 

There is not now throughout the whole world a single 
worshiper of the goddess "Diana" or of the image which is 
said to have fallen down from heaven. 

The apostle John, the beloved disciple of Jesus, lived 
at Ephesus, both before his banishment to the island of 




{Original Photo). 



RUINS IN EPHESUS. 



Patmos and after his release, St. Luke also lived at Ephe- 
sus and died there, and his tomb is to be seen at the present 
day among the ruins. (See illus., p. 77.) 

There were seven churches in the Roman province of 
Asia to which John, at the command of Jesus, wrote an 



EETURNING TO SMYRNA. 379 

epistle or letter.' He first addressed the "angel," or 
minister, of the church at Ephesus. The church at Ephesus 
was in good standing; the}' had borne, and had patience, 
and for Jesus' sake had labored and had not fainted, and 
yet there was something wrong. "I have somewhat 
against thee, because thou hast left thy first love." And the 
warning was: "Remember therefore from whence thou art 
fallen, and repent, and do the first works; or else I will 
come unto thee quickly, and will remove thy candlestick out 
of his place, except thou repent."^ "To him that overcometh 
will I give to eat of the tree of life, which is in the midst 
of the paradise of God."^ 

To-day there is not one in Ephesus to read the epistle to 
them that was written for them by the apostle. She lost her 
first love, and her candlestick was removed forever. Ephe- 
sus is a heap of ruins of the finest kind of building material. 
The modern village consists of a few small huts made of the 
poorest material in the midst of the very best with which 
to construct houses, as the illustration shows. (See illus., 
p.377.) 

The country is hilly and the valleys very fertile. The 
sun shone very warmly and all were about exhausted when 
we returned to the station. Accommodations at the station 
are very poor. 

We returned to Smyrna which is a beautiful city. Much 
of the material and marble to build it has been brought 
from the ruins of Ephesus. Its population is about 300,000 
souls, comprising people of all nationalities. It has a tine 
seaport, and many war ships are anchored in the harbor. 
We visited Smyrna, and Ephesus with its ruins, and many 

1 Rev. 1: 11. - Rev. 2i:4, 5, ' Rev. 2:7. 



380 



AKOUND tup: GL015E. 



points of interest; but we concluded to leave although much 
more time could have been profitably spent in Asia Minor 
visiting Pergamos, Thyatira, Sardis, Philadelphia and Laod- 
icea, the others of the seven churches. As the way is hard 
and traveling very laborious in connection with the expense, 
wo bid adieu to this ancient country of Bible interest. 




RUINS OF THE 'lllKATKE AT EPIIESI'S. (Original Photo) 

It was a beautiful morning in May and the sea was very 
calm when at 9:30 we went aboard the ship and moved out 
into the deep. We sailed across the straits which are 
dotted with small islands which make very attractive scenery. 




CHAPTER XLV. 
Athens, Greece. 

PAUL IN ATHENS — MARS HILL — THE UNKNOWN GOD — NEW 
DOCTRINE— PAUL'S SUCCESS. 

THENS is situated in the southern part of 
Greece, about three miles from the seacoast 
and is reached by train, going through a 
splendid country along the sea. The city 
stands on a plain, but there are four small hills all of which 
formed part of the city. One of the hills, called the Acrop- 
olis or citadel, is a square craggy rock, on which stood the 
Parthenon, the famous temple of Athena, the goddess sup- 
posed to watch over the city. It was built of white marble. 
The image of the goddess, celebrated for its size and beauty, 
was made of ivory and gold. Not far from the Acropolis is 
another rock called " Mars Hill," where important cases were 
tried by judges. The plain below was covered with houses, 
temples, and other public buildings. Statues everywhere 
met the eye. 

Athens was noted for its idlers. Both the people of the 
city and strangers who came to it spent their time' in noth- 
ing else save either telling or hearing of something new. The 
chief place of resort was the market place, a square, sur- 
rounded with temples and shady porticoes. Near it were 
some famous schools of philosophy. 



382 



ABOUND THE GLOBE. 



Paul was alone in Athens. He went through the city 
from street to street. His attention was chiefly taken up 
with the numerous temples and images. His spirit was 
stirred within him when he saw that the city was wholly 
given to idolatry.' Athens was so full of idols that it was 
said to be easier to find a god in it than to find a man. He 
felt sad that men should forget their great Creator, and give 
the honor due Him to the works of their own hands. 




Paul went first to the Jews who were in the city, and 
reasoned with them in their synagogue or church, but his 
chief work was in the market place, where he went every day 
to speak with any who were willing to hear what he had to 
say. Among those whom he met were two classes of Athen- 
ian philosophers from the schools near at hand. One class, 
called Epicureans, took their name from Epicurus, who lived 
more than 300 years before Paul visited Athens. Epicurus 
taught that the world was not made by a Creator, and that 

1 Acts 17:16. 



THE STOICS. 



883 



pleasure is the chief good. He himself was much better than 
his followers, whose motto, in later years, may be said to 
have been, "Let us eat and drink for to-morrow we die." 

The Stoics were the other class. Their name is from 
stoa^ a porch, in which Zeno, their founder, first taught. 
Virtue was held to be the highest good, and they pretended 
to be indifferent alike to pleasure and pain. Many of them, 
however, were hypocrites, indulging in vice, and some were 




frricri'tltti PfuirOJ 



MARS HILL, ATHENS. 



tempted to suicide. Paul did not talk with the philosophers 
about the questions which they were fond of discussing, but 
about Jesus and the resurrection from the dead. The feel- 
ings thus excited were mingled with curiosity and contempt. 
Paul seemed to them as putting forth strange gods, a mere 
"seed picker," one who picks up scraps of knowledge which 
he does not understand. As far as they could make out, Paul 



384 AllOUNi) THE GLOBfi. 

appeared to be preaching a new religion. As it was difficult 
to hear in the crowd, they proposed to go to Mars Hill, 
close at hand. 

They went up from the market place by some steps, to 
the top of the rock, where there was a level spot encircled 
by a stone bench. Some of Paul's hearers sat, others stood 
around him. The blue sky was above his head, the earth 
under his feet and in front was the Acropolis, crowned with 
temples. Stretching out his hand, Paul spoke as follows: 
"Ye men of Athens, I perceive that in all things ye are too 
superstitious. For as I passed by, and beheld your devotions, 
I found an altar with this inscription. To the unknown God. 
Whom therefore ye ignorantly worship, him declare I unto 
you, etc.," as found in Acts 17:22—31. 

Like the greatest of the Greek orators, Paul began with, 
"Yemen of Athens." He acknowledged that they were 
religious. The Athenians confessed by the inscription on 
the altar that there was a God whom they did not know. He 
was the God whom Paul preached. Pointing, perhaps, to 
the splendid Parthenon, Paul taught that God dwells not in 
temples made with hands; He is the great Creator of all 
things, and does not need anything from us. 

The Athenians claimed to have sprung from the earth. 
Paul taught, on the contrary, that all men were equally made 
by God. He has given them power to find Him though they 
have but dimly groped after Him in the darkness. In sup- 
port of what he said, Paul made a well known quotation from 
a Greek poet, "For we are also His offspring." The Athen- 
ians were proud of the beautiful statues of their gods, but 
Paul declared that the Godhead is not like to gold, silver or 
stone, formed into images. 



ATHENS. 



385 



After teaching the " Fatherhood of God," and the 
"Brotherhood of Man," Paul said that the time of ignorance 
God had overlooked, but that now He commanded all men 
everywhere to repent. He also spoke of a coming judgment, 
of which God had given a pledge by raising from the dead 
the ordained judge, the Lord Jesus Christ. He, before 
whom we must appear at the last day, now invites us to come 




I Original I'hoio.) 



iEMFLK OF ATHKNA. 



to Him as our Savior. When Paul spoke of the resurrection, 
some, probably the Epicureans, broke into open mocking, 
while others, probably the Stoics, with a show of politeness 
said, "We will hear thee concerning this yet again." 

Still some believed and were baptized. Among them 
was Dionysius, one of the judges of the court of Areopagus, 
a woman named Damaris, and others with them. It must 
have been a great trial to take this bold step in a city wholly 

25 



386 



AlfeOUKD THE GLOBE. 



given to idolatry; but they sought the truth, and were not 
content simply to walk according to custom. 

Although Paul never again visited Athens, a Christian 
church was established which afterward produced some emi- 
nent men. The temple of Athena was converted into a place 
of worship for the One True God, and on Mars Hill there now 
stands a church, called after Dionysius. 




(Original Photo. 
A GRECIAN COSTUME, 




CHAPTER XL VI. 

Athens and Corinth. 

GRECIAN FUNERAL — PRIEST BEGGING ALMS — KING'S GARDENS AND 

PALACE — TOUR TO CORINTH— CORINTHIAN CANAL — 

PAUL AT CORINTH. 

HILE attending a Grecian funeral in Athens 
we noticed many things in their customs that 
dijffer from those we have in this country; 
and yet it is interesting to know that we have 
adopted many of the Greek customs as our own. 

On this occasion a young man led the procession, carry- 
ing the lid of the coffin, holding it erect. He was followed 
by a number of boys with banners, after which came about 
a dozen priests with their long garments. Following these 
was the coffin, borne by' six men, and containing the corpse 
which was exposed to view. Then came the friends in car- 
riages, while in the rear was the funeral car drawn by four 
black horses, each horse covered with a mourning blanket, 
and led by a man. These men, including the one sitting on the 
car, all wore high silk hats. 

Thus the procession left the house of the deceased, pro- 
ceeding through the streets of Athens to the church, a fine 
structure. The king and queen were present at the funeral 
and occupied seats in their special enclosure by the side of the 
pulpit and the patriarch. After the ceremony was performed, 
the procession left the church in the same manner as it had 
come. 



388 



AROtTND THE GLOM. 



Dr. Becker, in 
h i s Charades, 
oives an e x- 
haustive sketch 
of Greek cus- 
toms in funerals. 
It is interesting 
to observe how 
many of these 
we have adopted 
in America, such 
as the anointing 
and washing of 
the body and the 
use of the white 
shroud, the em- 
ployment of gar- 
lands of flowers, 
the laying out 
of the dead and 
the attendance 
of the relatives 
and friends, the burial on the third day, the procession fol- 
lowing the bier, which is borne by relatives or friends, 
and the final burying in a wooden or stone coffin. But we 
have Christianized the ordinary Greek ceremonies in this 
country by omitting a part of what they regard as essential. 

We noticed at the outside of a church door an aged 
priest wearing his priestly garments, leaning on his crutches, 
begging alms of those who went in and out. Such men, who 
have served in the churches and given their best days to the 




[Frijiii Pluito.) 

(tRecian costume and uniform. 



ATHENS.— THE KING'S PALACE. 



389 



Lord and His cause, ought not to be brought where they 
bring disgrace upon the cause, by being neglected on the 
part of the Christian church. 

We visited the king's gardens and went through the 
palace. On entering the grounds and coming towards the 
palace, one of the king's stewards came and after the drago- 
man had introduced us we were taken through the palace. 

The first door we entered brought us into a large hall, 
where we turned to our left passing through double doors 
that opened at the foot of a grand stairway leading to the 
second floor. 
As we came 
to the top of 
the stairs there 
were a number 
of ca n n o n s 
pointing d i - 
rectly toward 
us, seemingly 
daring the en- 
emy. Passing 
through an- 
other door we 
came into a 
room where the 
banners and 
flags were kept 
that had passed 
through all 
their battles ^^___, ^ _ 

and wflrs! (Original Photo.\ 

awu vyaio, GPECIAN LADY'S COSTUME. 




390 



AROUND THE GLOBE. 



Here we were told to halt and the king's servant with- 
drew, as he was dressed in a citizen's costume and dared not 
appear without wearing the costume of the king's servants 
and officials. The king's guards and those around the palace 
all wear the national costume, which is shown" in the 
illustration. 

After a few minutes he returned, dressed in his kingly 
garment or uniform which was as follows: Trousers black, 




{Original Photo.) 



RUINS OF THE ACROPOLIS. 



coat black, Prince Albert cut, but short in front, trimmed 
with black braid, the vest was red; the whole made a fine 
appearance. Thus attired he led us on through the banquet 
halls of immense size, grandly finished and furnished, and 
thence to the reception room. 

In this department there were some very fine seats. The 
throne consists of an elevation or rostrum about ten feet 



CORINTH. 391 

square, two steps high and very finely carpeted, on which 
there is an elegant chair for the king; a canopy over the seat 
makes a most imposing appearance. Yet this is simply noth- 
ing to be compared with the throne of the Great King of all 
the earth, before whom all must appear. May the Lord grant 
to all the dear readers that blessed reception: "Come, ye 
blessed of my Father, inherit the kingdom prepared for you." 

A ride of about three hours on the train brought us to 
Corinth. A part of the country through which we went 
is very barren, while the remaining portion is cultivated. 
Many vineyards are seen all through Greece. 

We crossed the Corinth canal, which connects the sea 
with the Gulf of Corinth. This is a masterly piece of work 
cut through the solid rock. The modern town of Corinth is 
about two miles from the ancient ruins. 

Paul left Athens and came to Corinth perhaps by very 
nearly the same route that we took. Corinth was at that 
time a wealthy city and the capital of Greece, located between 
two seas. The people were very fond of pleasure. There 
was a famous temple to Venus with many priestesses. At 
Corinth Paul found lodging with a Jew, called Aquila, who, 
with his wife, Priscilla, had come from Italy. The emperor 
had ordered all Jews to leave Rome, because they were so 
often making disturbances. One reason why Paul went to 
them was because they were tent-makers like himself, and 
he worked with them for his daily bread. It is wrong to live 
in idleness, if we are able to work. Paul says: "If any 
would not work, neither should he eat."^ 

The unbelieving Jews were so enraged at seeing numbers 
become Christians that Paul feared lest he should be beateio. 

1 2 Thess, 3: 10. 



392 



akol:nd the globe. 



and imprisoned. God comforted him in a dream at night. 
He said to Paul: "Be not afraid, bat speak, and hold not thy 
peace: for I am with thee, and no man shall set on thee to 
hurt thee, for I have much people in this city."' This en- 
couraged Paul, so that he stayed more than a year longer in 
Corinth, and went on teaching. 




RUINS OF THE ACROPOLIS. 



{Original Photo.) 



After this a new governor named Gallio came to Corinth, 
and the Jews seized Paul and dragged him before the 
governor. "What has he done?" asked Gallio. 

The Jews answered: "He has been teaching us to wor- 
ship God in a wrong way." Paul was just going to defend 
himself when Gallio said to the Jews, "If this man had done 
anything wicked, I would have judged him; but as it is only 
a question of words, I will not hear you." Then he drove 
them away from the court. Upon this the Greeks took Sos- 

1 Acts 18:9, 10. 



PAUL LEAVING CORINTH. 



393 



thenes, the chief ruler of the synagogue, and beat him even 
before the judgment seat, but Gallio cared for none of these 
things.' 

About a month later, Paul took leave of the brethren, 
and sailed for Syria. He afterwards wrote two long letters 
to the Christians in Corinth. 

1 ActsJlS. 





CHAPTER XL VII. 

From Corinth to Naples, Italy, 
harvest in greece— pa tres— business houses open on sunday 

— A FIGHT — OUT ON THE DEEP — AMERICAN PARTY — ISLAND 
COFU— BRINDISI, ITALY — COUNTRY — NAPLES- 
MOUNT VESUVIUS— POMPEII — ELECTION — 
FUNERAL PROCESSION— TOUR 
TO ROME. 

EAVING Corinth by train we arrived at Patres, 
one of the main seaports of Greece, in about 
four hours. We traveled through a fine 
country along the sea and the farmers were in 
the midst of harvest, reaping their wheat and oats with sickles, 
as many as one dozen following each other, and binding their 
sheaves as they cut them. Many vineyards were also seen. 
The climate is fine and the sea breeze is very invigorating. 
Sunday, May 29th. All business houses are open and no 
church bells are heard, but crowds of people are on the 
streets, all intent upon amusement. 

Just as we were to go aboard the ship, there was a great 
excitement and it was reported that four Greeks had fought 
with knives and that all were stabbed and one killed. The 
police, followed by a large crowd, took them away to prison. 
O, how sad to see that sin and vice does so abound every- 
where one goes! 



BEINDISI, ITALY. 395 

Soon we were on the ship and met with several young 
gentlemen from America, one from Ohio, one from Pennsyl- 
vania and one from Michigan. Two of them were young 
ministers visiting Bible points of interest, and they were all 
having a pleasant time together. 

We soon sailed for Brindisi, Italy. The next day we 
arrived at the island of Cofu, belonging to Greece and 
formerly in the possession of the English. The weather was 
very pleasant and the sea calm. We arrived at Brindisi 
where we had longed to be on account of our baggage having 
been forwarded to that place. Fortune favored us and we 
found all in a proper condition, having made the long journey 
from Yokohama, Japan, to Brindisi, Italy, in the most satis- 
factory manner, for which the Lord received all honor. Here 
our steamship ticket expired. We felt consoled that the 
longest sea voyages were over and that now we were 
drawing towards home. 

Brindisi is located on the eastern coast of Italy and is the 
principal Mediterranean seaport, and, as usual in all seaports, 
there is much vice and sin here. Boys from eight to ten 
years old were staggering around on the streets in a beastly 
state of intoxication. In the evening the streets are crowded 
with people. While they have police officers they also have 
soldiers who march through the streets to preserve order. 

Leaving for Naples, the western seaport, nigh to Puteoli 
where the apostle Paul landed, a distance of about ten hours' 
ride by train, we passed through some very fine country, 
highly cultivated, yet much of it very mountainous. Many 
tunnels were passed through. We arrived at Naples in the 
evening and were soon ensconced at a good hotel with our 
friends, Messrs. Fultz and Jacobs, from America. 



396 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 

Naples and Vesuvius. 

Naples is a magnificent city located a short distance from 
Mount Vesuvius and not far from Pompeii. The sky is gen- 
erally clear, and the climate temperate and pleasant. 
Through the country, grain, the olive and grapes are the 
principal agricultural productions. Cattle are raised in large 
numbers. 

Sunday, May 26th, was election day at this place and no 
observance of Sunday was noticeable and most of the people 
were out in the parks. A funeral procession passed which 
was as follows: six men carrying on their heads a kind of 
platform about eight feet wide by ten feet long. Over this 
platform hung a large black cloth trimmed in gold embroid- 
ery, the cloth hanging down about four feet below the plat- 
form all around. On each side were three men holding the 
cloth as it hung down; making in all twelve men, all wearing 
peculiar garments and having their faces covered with white 
cloths. On the platform stood the casket finished in gold. 
About a dozen carriages followed in the procession. 

A visit to Mount Vesuvius, a distance of about thirty 
minutes by train, was made by three of us and a dragoman. 
This proved to be one of the hardest days of our entire tour. 
It is almost impossible to give a description of the great 
volcano. It is about 4,000 feet high and covers an area of 
about two square miles. It appears as though the whole 
mountain were on fire as the heat and steam escape from the 
stones and cracks when the lava runs out. 

Ascending the mountain and getting above the clouds, 
with the sea far below us, we saw a wonderful sight. Hear- 
ing the rumbling beneath us and the thundering above us, 
we were almost terrified, and felt as though we were on for* 



MOUNT VESUVIUS. 



399' 



bidden grounds. At places the stones were so hot that yon 
could not sit on them, while the lava came dowa all around 
us whenever the crater discharged. In the center, the crater 
was probably one hundred feet high . Around it was a gulf 
perhaps fifty feet deep and one hundred feet wide which fed 
the crater. About every five or ten minutes the rumbling 
and thundering began and a wonderful explosion took place 
when lava was thrown hundreds of feet high. As it came 




;^S?^^> 



(Original Photo.) 
NAPLES, ITALY, AND MOUNT VESUVIUS. 



down on the crater and scattered all around, it made a noise 
as though car loads of stone were being dumped. O, what a 
terrible place this is; and yet so many visit it. 

In noticing the amount of water on the face of the earth 
it seems as though it was but a small thing for the Almighty to 
have destroyed the world by water or a flood; and it is but a 



400 



AROUND THE GLOBE. 



small thing for the Almighty to destroy this world by fire^ 
because He has it all in His own hands. 

Pompeii is but a short distance from here. It was 
destroyed by the great eruption centuries ago. Great exca- 
vations are made at the present time. 

Rome is distant about ten hours ride on the train. There 
are all along the route caves cut into the rocks and moun- 
tains in which natives live. Many women are employed as 
guards at the crossings, with flags in their hands. A 
chain is stretched across the road to prevent accidents. Rail- 
road traveling is cheap in Italy. We arrived at Rome in 
the eveninof. 





CHAPTER XLVIII. 
Ancient Rome. 

center of the ancient world— other nations robbed of 
their treasures— paul in rome— puteoli— three 

TAVERNS — PAUL'S IMPRISONMENT. 

JOME was, in ancient times, the greatest city in 
the world, and the capital from which the 
then known world was controlled. In the time 
[f of Augustus the Roman Empire was the 
greatest the world ever saw. It extended from the Atlantic 
to the Euphrates, and from the Danube to the Sibyan desert. 
The Mediterranean was a Roman lake. Other empires ]iave 
exceeded it in territory and population, but there never has 
been a second empire which so united in itself all the culti- 
vated nations of its time. 

Rome was situated in the centre of the central sea of the 
ancient world. From this point the world, known to the 
ancients in Europe, was conquered and controlled. It seems 
wonderful that one country should govern so many nations. 
This was done by placing Roman governors over these various 
kingdoms, the governors being sustained by a multitude of 
Roman soldiers. A net- work of roads extended from Rome 
to every part of the empire, like so many cords binding the 
conquered world to the centre. 

The various generals who conquered other nations 
robbed them of their choicest treasures; these were brought 

26 



402 



ABOUND THE GLOBE. 



to Rome to decorate and enrich the capital. There were 
beautiful statues from Greece, obelisks and columns from 
Egypt, and a variety of curious and costly manufactures 
from Asia. Gold, silver and precious stones had been gath- 
ered from every part of the earth. The city was embellished 
with temples, many of them beautifully sculptured. There 
were also theatres, amphitheatres, baths, triumphal arches 




WAii-i; l(>LMVI^ IN i:()Mt. 



[Oi Kjuud Photo.) 



and aqueducts. Augustus boasted that he had found Rome 
of brick and left it of marble. 

All religions were tolerated in Rome except Christianity. 
It was thought that the prosperity of a country depended 
upon the worship of the gods. Christians had no images 
and did not offer sacrifices, so they were regarded as atheists, 
men without any religion. In Tinnevelly, where numbers had 
become Christians, an outbreak of cholera was attributed to 
the anger of the demons at no longer being worshiped. 



PAUL AT KOME. 403 

THE APOSTLE PAUL IN ITALY. 

The Christian church at Rome was probably founded by 
the "strangers of Rome" who were in Jerusalem on the day 
of Pentecost.^ Paul had often purposed to visit Rome, but 
had as often been hindered.^ To make up in part for this 
failure, he wrote from Corinth the present epistle and sent it 
by Phebe, a servant of the church at Cenchrea, the eastern 
port of Corinth. 

At last Paul was sent to Rome to be tried before Csesar. 
The ship in which he sailed came to Puteoli, on the west 
coast of Italy, the great port of Rome, where corn ships 
unloaded their cargoes. The centurion allowed Paul to re- 
main seven days with the Christians who were living there. 
From Puteoli Paul went to Rome by a famous highway, 
called the "Queen of Roads," along which were inns for 
travelers every twenty miles. 

When the Christians at Rome heard of Paul's landing 
at Puteoli, several set out to meet him on the way. Some 
of them had seen him before in other countries. When he 
was at Corinth, he wrote a long letter to the Christians at 
Rome. Aquila and Priscilla were now again living in Rome, 
and very likely they would be among those who went to 
meet Paul. 

Some came out to a place about forty-three miles from 
Rome, called Appii Forum, and others to a place called Three 
Taverns, ten miles nearer Rome. They saw a little gray- 
headed old man, a chained prisoner, but they received him as 
an ambassador of Jesus Christ. Paul thanked God and took 
courage.* At Rome the centurion delivered over the prisoners 
to the captain of the emperor's body-guard who allowed Paul 

1 Acts 2: 10. - Eom. 1: 1.3. ^ Acts 28: 13, 14. * Acts 28: 15. 



404 AROUND THE GLOBE. 

to live by himself in his hired house, in charge of a soldier.' 
Paul first sought to make known the Gospel to the Jews in 
Rome, some of whom believed and some believed not. After- 
ward he labored among the Gentiles, no one forbidding him.^ 

The church at Rome must have increased largely, for 
only a few years later great numbers of Christians were put 
to death by Nero. Converts were made even in the palace. 
During his confinement Paul wrote several of his epistles. 
He was comforted by the presence of several kind friends, 
as Luke, Timothy, John and Mark. 

After two years' confinement at Rome, Paul was de- 
clared innocent and set free. When he left Rome he visited 
the churches where ho had first made known the Gospel. He 
may have gone to Spain.' In a letter to Titus, he wrote that 
he hoped to spend the winter in Macedonia, * but before it 
was over he was arrested on a new charge, and sent back to 
Rome to stand a new trial. 

Since Paul had been last in Rome more than half the 
city had been burned down. It was generally thought that 
the cruel and wicked emperor Nero had given orders to his 
servants to set fire to the city in several places, but he laid 
the blame on the Christians who were now numerous. He 
ordered large numbers to be crucified; others wore wrapped 
in the skins of wild beasts and torn by dogs; some wore 
covered with pitch and set on fire at night to burn as torches 
in the emperor's gardens. 

The second imprisonment of Paul was very severe. 
Now, too, he was almost alone. Luke only remained.^ When 
Paul appeared before the blood-thirsty Nero, the murderer of 

1 Acts 28: It). 2 ^cts 2H: 17— .31. » Rom. 15: 24. 

* Titus 3:12. '2 Tim. 4:11. 



CLOSE OF PAUL'S MINISTRY. 405 

his own mother, no man stood by him. It was dangerous for 
any one to help a Christian in those evil times; but Paul says 
that the Lord Jesus Christ stood by him and strengthened 
him. 

While Paul's trial was going on he wrote a second letter 
to Timothy who had taken charge of the church at Ephesus. 
Timothy was like a dear son to Paul, and this letter is fall 
of wise and loving counsel. He urged him not to be afraid 
of shame and suffering as a Christian, but to endure hardness, 
as a good soldier of Jesus Christ. 

Paul expected to be put to death, but he looked forward 
to it with peace and joy. He wrote to Timothy, "I am now 
ready to be offered, and the time of my departure is at hand. 
I have fought a good fight, I have finished my course, 1 have 
kept the faith. Henceforth there is laid up for me a crown 
of righteousness, which the Lord, the righteous judge, shall 
give me on that day." Paul felt that the fight was nearly 
over now. Unrighteous judges would condemn^him to a dis- 
graceful death, but the righteous judge would give him a 
crown of life. Paul adds: "Not to me alone, but unto all 
them also that love him."^ 

Paul tells Timothy how greatly he desired to see him. 
He asked him to bring the cloak which he left at Troas to 
protect him from the damp of his prison, and the cold of 
winter, also his books and parchments.- We do not know 
whether Paul ever saw Timothy again. When an old man, 
about seventy years of age, Paul was led out beyond the gates 
of Rome to die. Luke, his faithful friend, was no doubt with 
him, and cheered his weary march to the place of execution. 
Above all, the Lord Jesus Christ would be with him, so that 

i2Tim. 4:6— 8. ^2 Tim. 4:13. 



406 



ABOUND THE GLOBE. 



when the axe was raised to sever his head from his body he 
could triumphantly exclaim, "O death, where is thy sting! 
O grave, where is thy victory? Thanks be to God who 
giveth us the victory through Jesus Christ." 

Eighteen hundred years have passed away, and Paul is 
enjoying unspeakable happiness in heaven. How much bet- 
ter it is to spend life like Paul in trying to do good, than 
to live a life of sin and ease! We need men like Paul to 
carry the Gospel of salvation to the people, and turn them 
from serving the idols of sin and the world to the God of 
love and mercy. Will you all take part in this noble work ? 
The crown of righteousness may be ours also. It is however 
a prize which must be won. There is a race set before us, 
which we all must run. We must lay aside every thing that 
hinders us, and we must run with patience, looking unto 
Jesus. Thus enter upon the race, and so run that you may 
obtain the victory. 





CHAPTER XLIX. 
Modern Rome. 

ART PRODUCTIONS — GREAT CATHEDRALS — ST. PETER'S CHURCH — 
ANCIENT RUINS. 

lODERN Rome has a population of 500,000 
souls. It is the center of the Roman Catholic 
church and the seat of the Papal government. 
Wherever one may go in Rome, the 
pictures and statues that are seen are entirely different in 
their nature from those of any other place. The show win- 
dows are full of art productions illustrating Bible subjects 
and events, making a very attractive appearance. The Virgin 
Mary, Jesus, and the Twelve Apostles are favorite subjects 
and are frequently seen reproduced in life size. 

There are many schools and colleges in Rome and many 
young men, divinity students, with priestly garments, are 
seen on the streets. They usually appear in groups, each 
group being accompanied by an older man. 

The great cathedrals here are among the finest and most 
wonderful in the world. They are made of the finest mater- 
ials, are supported by immense columns of marble and granite 
of different colors, and are embellished with various images, 
paintings, curtains and draperies. The altars and confes- 
sional boxes are very highly finished. There are many 
attendants at these places of worship. Some are coming, 
some are going, while others are worshiping, many of them 



408 



AKOUND THE GLOBE. 



on their knees praying, and wiping the warm tears from their 
eyes. Their devotion commands the utmost respect, although 
in many particulars they are in the dark regarding their 
eternal welfare. The attendants who escort visitors through 
the different cathedrals show to strangers the utmost kind- 
ness. 

St. Peter's church is considered the greatest in the 
world, and covers an area of 18,000 square yards and is 




{Original Photo.) 



ST. PETER'S CHURCH, ROME. 



claimed to have cost about $50,000,000, and according to tra- 
dition it is located on the spot where St. Paul suffered 
martyrdom. The church contains a great deal of mosaic 
work. One stone is so finely polished that it appears like 
glass. May not this give some idea of the grandeur of the 
temple of Solomon in Jerusalem? In the center is a large 
bronze canopy under which the pope reads mass on high 



EOME. 409 

festival occasions, and around this are eighty-six ever burning 
lamps, the annual expense of which is said to be '13,750,000. 

The question may be asked, "Is not many a poor man 
and woman taxed to the utmost to raise the money with 
which to pay these enormous expenses? Yet, these poor people 
feel greatly consoled by believing that by making confes- 
sions, and paying their dues, they will enter heaven, 

O that the light of the Gospel might shine, and make 
such to see that by going to the Lord Jesus Christ, confess- 
ing and repenting of their sins they shall find mercy and 
pardon by believing in Him. 

Rome is a very interesting city and is built in modern 
style with churches and other buildings of high order. There 
are also many ancient ruins to be seen of aqueducts, 
walls, and columns that have been standing for centuries. 
Like Jerusalem, about all that is seen and heard here is 
of a religious tendency. 





CHAPTER L. 

Homeward Bound. 

flokence, italy— basel, switzerland— paris, france — lon- 
DON, ENGLAND— CROSSING THE ATLANTIC — NEW 
YORK, U. S. A. — HOME. 

TARTING from Rome, June 1st, we traveled 
through a very attractive country. The low 
lands and valleys are in a high state of culti- 
vation, and the hillsides are utilized as far as 
possible. Many tunnels are passed through and many 
bridges are crossed by the railroad. The people are very 
sociable and talkative, yet their language is very difficult for 
an American. 

We arrived at Florence, Italy, and spent some time 
there. Florence is a grand city with churches surmounted 
by domes, and magnificent structures of all kinds and statues 
such as can be seen in no other country. The Sabbath day 
was spent by the people in having a drawing-lottery, at 
which there was great excitement. This day is not observed 
by them as it is in America. Bands were playing, soldiers 
were marching, and many of the people were promenading 
the streets, while others were attending the services in the 
magnificent cathedrals surmounted by immense domes hun- 
dreds of feet high. 

From Florence we went to Milan. We were now getting 
into a more mountainous country as we came nearer Switzer- 



SWITZEELAND. 



411 



land. After spending some time in Milan, and after having 
our money exchanged into the currency of Switzerland, we 
traveled toward Basel, going through as many as ten tunnels 
in an hour's time. We noticed that the railroad companies 
employed principally women as guards at the crossings. The 
mountain scenery was grand, the tops of the peaks being 
covered with snow, and waterfalls hundreds of feet high being 




LUZERN, SWITZERLAND. 



(Original Photo.) 



seen on all sides. In the valley many of the peasantry were 
making hay. 

One very encouraging feature to us was the fact that the 
railroad employees spoke principally the German language; 
this was especially appreciated after having traveled through 
so many countries where strange languages were used. We 
went through the St. Gothard tunnel which is nearly three 
miles lono;. 



412 



AEOUND THE GLOBE. 



Basel is a city of about 600,000 inhabitants, and shows 
the results of the peculiar business characteristics of the 
thrifty Swiss people. These few latter cities compare very 
favorably with our American cities. 

Leavino; Basel by rail we went to Paris. The country 
through which we traveled is well improved; the inhabitants 
own fine stock of all kinds, their horses being similar to the 
large draft horses of our country. 

Paris is without any exception, to our best judgment, the 
finest city in every respect on the face of the earth. It con- 




(Original Photo.) 
SISIKON, AT THE URNEK SEA. 

tains about 2,500,000 inhabitants. Here many of the railroad 
coaches and street omnibuses are two stories high; and they 
are nearly always filled to their utmost capacity. They are 
entered at the end and are calculated to hold about forty 
passengers on the upper story. 

While general information goes to show that a great 
deal of sin and vice exists in this city, many of the customs 
of the people, especially their manner of doing business, and 
the way in which they wear their garments, are being copied 
by the other civilized nations of the world. Hundreds of 
interesting things might be said about the French people, 



PEOM PAEIS TO LONDOK. 415 

but space and time forbid. The customs and manners of 
all the civilized European countries are so well known to 
the average reader that their repetition here would be com- 
paratively uninteresting. 

On the 7th of June we left Paris, our next objective 
point being London. At Calaix we took a steamer across 
the English channel which was very wild and rough. We 
landed on English soil at Dover, about four o'clock in the 
morning. The air was quite cool, there being considerable 
snow along the coast. 

In about two hours after leaving Dover by rail we arrived 
in London where we had been ten years before. We noticed 
a great change in that part of the city called " Ludgate Cir- 
cus." Here I again met my friend J. C. Mack, of Boston, with 
whom I had roomed while at Jerusalem, and with whom the 
interesting journey to Bethany, Jericho, the Jordan and the 
Dead Sea was made. 

About one week was spent here visiting special places of 
interest in this great metropolis, among which was Spurgeon's 
tabernacle, where the son of the eminent Charles H. Spurgeon 
is at present preaching. A very interesting service was held 
at this place. We were here permitted to meet for the first 
time Dr. C. Day, of Chicago, with whom we afterwards spent 
many pleasant hours, and with whom we visited the ex- 
prisoners' home, where we, together, took part in a service 
under the auspices of the Salvation Army of London. 

On returning from religious services and places of inter- 
est in the evening, we met many women of a very low 
character on the streets. It is stated that there are over 
600,000 prostitutes in the city of London, who accost men on 
every side. We noticed that the drinking houses were full 



4i6 AfiOUND THE GLOBE. 

of both men and women. This is no doubt the most wicked 
city of the civilized world. These statements have been made 
by officers of the Salvation Army. O, what a sad condition 
of aflfairs, that people prefer darkness rather than light! 

Arrangements were now made to leave London; our 
baggage was inspected by the custom officers, and was 
allowed to pass. Much more might be said but as it would 
not be new to our intelligent readers, we refrain. Leaving 
London, we went by rail to Southampton, the main seaport 
of the American steamship line. Our friend J. C. Mack 
accompanied us from here to New York. 

Our voyage was a very pleasant one, and it was espe- 
cially cheering to know that our journey's end was so near, 
and that we would soon have the pleasure of meeting our 
dear ones again. 

We arrived at New York on the 25th of June, feeling 
grateful to God for His protecting care and the grace given 
us during these long voyages. After our baggage had landed 
and passed the custom offices without any difficulty, we spent 
a few days with relatives and friends in the eastern states. 

We arrived at home on the 4th of July, 1895; and were 
met by our family and a host of friends that had gathered at 
the railroad station to welcome us home. The time which 
we had been looking forward to, during our entire journey, 
had now come. 

We were grateful to God for His special grace during 
all these wanderings. The Lord cared for us both on land and 
sea; and the earnest longing of the writer is that he might be 
able to share with his fellowmen the information and experi- 
ence obtained; and that some one may be benefited through 
these lines. 



A PETITION. 417 

The writer concludes with a petition in which he wishes 
the readers could heartily join: 

O God, Thou who hast made of one blood all nations 

OF MEN FOR TO DWELL ON THE FACE OF THE EARTH, AND DIDST 
SEND Thy BLESSED SON TO PREACH PEACE TO TIIEM THAT ARE 
AFAR OFF, AND TO THEM THAT ARE NIGH, SPEED THE TIME WHEN 
ALL THE NATIONS OF THE EARTH MAY CALL ON TllEE AS THE 

TRUE God, and Jesus Christ as the Redeemer of the world. 
Grant that all the people of these different lands may 
feel after Thee and find Thee, and hasten, O Heavenly 
Father, the fulfillment of Thy promise, to pour out Thy 
Spirit upon all flesh, through Je:sus Christ our Lord, to 
whom be all honor and glory forever. Amen. 




'^^ 



List of Illustrations. 



Steam ship ........ 22 

Gethsemane and Mount of Olives ..... 23 

Ship's upper deck . . . . . . . 29 

Honolulu ......... 31 

European funeral procession in Turkey ... 35 

Japanese conveyance ....... 38 

Japanese temple ....... 40 

Daibutsu ......... 41 

Turkish festal day ....... 43 

Japanese dinner— eating macaroni . . . . 47 

St. Anna's church, Jerusalem ..... 49 

Miyanoshita, hot springs and bath houses ... 51 

Japanese jinrikisha and tea house .... 52 

Japanese mode of greeting ...... 53 

Tea plantation ........ 54 

Japanese dray — Fujiyama in the distance ... 55 

Street scene in Yokohama ..... 56 

Japanese idol ........ 57 

Ruins of St. John's church, Ephesus ... 59 
Japanese worship . . . . . . . .63 

Light house ........ 65 

Two seated I'inrikisha, ....... 67 

An oriental burden bearer ...... 6S 

Bristol hotel, Colombo, Ceylon 70 

A scene in the tropics 71 

Madras harbor and pier ...... 73 



420 LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS. 

Madras Post Office 75 

Tomb of St. Luke, Ephesut, . . . . .77 

Madras catamarans 81 

Coolie girl . . . . . . . .83 

Women cleaning heads ...... 85 

"Ninety to ninety-five percent are poor people" . . 86 

The Field of Blood, or Valley of Hinnom . . 87 

The Hugli river 90 

Ship in storm . 91 

High Court, Calcuiiu ....... 93 

The valley and tombs of Jehoshaphat ... 95 

Hindoo festival 98 

Prayer Mill 99 

Burning Gnatt 101 

Monkey temple 102 

Dancing girl ......... 101 

Upper Kidron and Mount Calvary .... 105 

Sacred tree 109 

Brahmans drowning Lhciiifsclv erf .... 110 

Mount Zion and the Mount of Olives .... Ill 

View of Bombay harbor . . . . , . 115 

Child in jewels 117 

Interior of the cave of KiepuauLa .... 119 

Gates of the church of the Holy Sepulchre . , . 123 

Rock of the Apostles 127 

Child studying nature 129 

Birds of India ... .... 131 

Towers of Silence and vuiLujecs ...... 133 

Church of the Lord's Prayer on Mount Olivet . . 139 

Map of Canaan and part of Egypt .... 141 

Children of Israel crossing the Red Sea . . 144 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 421 

Suez canal . . . . . . . . . 146 

Karnak, Egypt . . . . . . . . 150 

Oriental women veiled . . . . . . . 153 

Water carriers . . . . . , . , 155 

Mohammedans praying ...... 157 

Dancing dervishes ....... 161 

Ruins of the temple of Diana, Ephesus . . . 163 

Palm trees, Egypt 165 

The flight to Egypt 167 

Pyramid and Sphinx . . . . . . 171 

Sphinx 172 

Egyptian well near Cairo . . . . . . 174 

Apis tombs '. . 178 

Interior of the Apis tombs, principal passage . . 180 

Hours of meditation . . . . . . , 181 

Seaport of Joppa, Palestine ..... 189 

Jonah and the whale ....... 191 

Ruined church at Lydda . . . . . . 193 

Jaffa gate . . .198 

Mosque of Omar ....... 203 

Palestine in the time of Christ ..... 211 

Abraham offering up Isaac 214 

Interior of the Mosque of Omar 217 

Stables of Solomon 221 

Church of the Holy Sepulchre 225 

Mary Magdalene at the tomb 229 

Interior of the Coenaculum ...... 237 

Pool of Siloam ........ 241 

Greek ceremony of feet washmg ..... 245 

Arc De L'Ecce Homo via Dolorosa .... 248 

Crucifixion .... ^ ... . 251 



422 LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS. 

The last supper ........ 255 

Mount Zion and tomb of David and Solomon . . 258 

Leper hospital, Jerusalem 261 

Tomb of the Virgin ....... 267 

Interior of Gethsemane as it appears at the present day 271 

The descent of the Holy Ghost 273 

The Golden gate, Jerusalem . . . . . 275 

St. Stephen's gate, Jerusalem ..... 281 

Cave of the nativity: the manger .... 283 

Bethlehem 287 

Bethlehemite woman ...... 289 

Bethany 293 

Tomb of Lazarus at Bethany ..... 297 

Jericho as seen to-day ....... 303 

The bank of the Jordan 307 

Resting on the banks of the Dead Sea . . . . 311 

Abraham entertaining the angels .... 315 

Jerusalem dragoman . . . . . . .321 

"Abide with us; for it is toward evening" . . . 323 

Damascus gate, Jerusalem ...... 325 

House of Simon the tanner, Joppa . . . . 329 

Convent of St. Elias, near Jericho .... 335 

Plowing and sowing in the Orient .... 337 

Nazareth, the home of Jesus, as it is to-day . . . 339 

Bedouin women ....... 343 

Tiberias and the Sea of Galilee ..... 347 

Feeding the five thousand ...... 351 

Beirut, the seaport of Damascus ..... 355 

Damascus. Minaret St. EUene ..... 361 

A Turkish funeral procession ..... 365 

Saul of Tarsus struck with the great light . 366 



LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS. 423 

Seaport of Smyrna 368 

The rains of the prison of St. Paul, Ephesas . . 369 

Ruins of the aqueduct, Ephesus ..... 373 

Ruins in Ephesus 376 

Ephesus as it is to-day 377 

Ruins of the theatre at Ephesus .... 380 

Athen, Akropolis . . 382 

Mars Hill, Athens 383 

Temple of Athena . 385 

A Grecian costume ....... 386 

Grecian costume and uniform ..... 388 

Grecian lady's costume . 389 

Ruins of the Acropolis .... 390 

Ruins of the Acropolis ...... 392 

Inn of the Good Samaritan ..... 397 

Naples, Italy, and Mount Vesuvius .... 399 

Water fountain in Rome ...... 402 

St. Peter's church, Rome . . . . . . 408 

Luzern, Switzerland ... .... 411 

Sisikon, at the Urner sea . . . . . 412 

Ship of the American line . . . 413 

New York harbor of American line .... 418 



INDEX. 



Abraham entertaining the angel 
Absalom's tomb 
Aden, Arabia 
Allahabad, India . 
American cemetery in Japan 
American mission in Beirut . 
American mission in Cairo 
Apis tombs . 
Apostles' Springs 
Application for passport 
Arabs plowing . 

Baptism of Jesus . 
Bath houses of Japan 
Bathing in the Jordan 
Beirut 
Benares 
Bethany- 
Bethlehem 
Bethsaida . 
Bitter lake 
Bombay 

Brahmans' suicide . 
Buddhism threatened 
Buildings in India . 
Burning Gnatt . 

Cairo, Egypt 
Calcutta, India . 
Cana of Galilee 
Capernaum 
Caste marks . 



315 

277 
140 
108 

56 
354 
165 
178 
295 

18 
350 

302 

51 

305 

354 

101 

291 

282 

349 

147 

114 

110 

46 

75 

94 

157 

92 

352 

349 

83 



28 



426 



INDEX. 



Cave of Adullam 

Cave of Machpelah 

Chapels of Holy Sepulchre 

Chicago visit 

Child training . 

Chinese customs . 

Chinese steward 

Chorazin . . . . 

Christmas in India 

Christ weeping over Jerusalem 

Church of the Holy Sepulchre 

Church of the Lord's prayer . 

Church of nativity 

City of Palms 

Climate of Jerusalem 

Colombo, Ceylon . 

Communion service in Bombay 

Country town on shipboard . 

Crossing the meridian 

Daibutsu 

Damascus .... 
Dancing dervishes 
Dead Sea .... 
Degradation in Benares 
Diligence .... 
Distances in India 
Distinction of women 
Doctors as missionaries 
Dogs of Damascus 
Down to Jericho . 

Easter festival . 
Egyptian costumes 
Egyptian water carriers 
Elephanta cave 
Elijah's Field . 
Elisha's Spring 



291 
316 
232 

25 

129 

64 

28 

349 

84 

274 

227 

274 

285 

302 

213 

70 

121 

29 

37 

41 
361 
160 
309 
107 
357 
104 
47 
34 
364 
295 

234 
153 
155 
118 
302 
301 



INDEX. 



427 



Emmaus 


320 


Ephesus 


. . .373 


Evangelical mission in Japan . . 


47 


Farewell to India . . . 


. 139 


Field of Blood 


279 


Field of Pease 


. 281 


First impression in Jerusalem . . . 


200 


Foreign moneys ..... 


. 21 




55 


Garden of Gethsemane .... 


. 266 


Gates of Jerusalem . . . . 


210 


Gennesaret 


. -. . 346 


Globe trotter ' 


92 


Goddess of Mercy .... 


. 42 


Gods of War 


40 


Golden Gate, San Francisco . 


. 27 


Greek feet- washing 


244 


Haifa . 


. 328 


Hebron . 


314 


Hebron Mission Homes 


. 319 


Heliopolis, city of On .... 


183 


Hermits' Caverns ..... 


. 301 


Herod's reign ...... 


208 


Hezekiah's reign 


. 207 


Hill of evil counsel 


280 


Hills of Galilee 


. 343 


Hindoo child widows .... 


116 


Holy fire 


. 235 


Home of Mary, Martha and Lazarus 


292 


Hong Kong, China 


. 64 


Honolulu ....... 


31 


Hospital for bullocks . . . . 


. 114 


House of Ananias 


. . 363 


Houses of Jerusalem . . . . . 


. 213 


Howling dervishes . ... 


162 


Hugli river 


. 89 



428 



INDEX. 



Infant weddings 

Inscription on a tombstone . 

Island of Cyprus 

Island of Rhodes .... 

Island of Roida .... 

Island of Sumatra 

Ismalia . . . . 

"I will be a Christian" . 

Jairus ..... 

Japanese crematory . 

Japanese hotel .... 

Japanese idols .... 

Japanese mode of building 

Japanese politeness 

Japanese productions 

Japanese sandals . - . 

Japanese war spirit . 

Japanese women .... 

Jericho, ancient 

Jericho, modern .... 

Jerusalem ..... 

Jerusalem missions 

Jerusalem not a place of amusement 

Jewish resort for prayer 

Jewish prayer .... 

Jinrikisha ..... 

Jonah's tomb .... 

Jordan river ..... 

Joseph's well .... 

Jubulpore 

Judas' tree . ~. . . 



97 

97 
367 
372 
166 

70 
147 

45 

116 

48 

48 

57 

56 

53 

53 

46 

52 

58 

296 

300 

196 

240 

201 

317 

318 

39 

314 

302 

169 

113 

280 



Kamakura 
King David's reign 
King Solomon's reign 
Kobe, Japan 



39 
202 
205 

62 



INDEX. 



Land of Goshen 

Last judgment . 

Last supper . 

Lazarus' tomb . 

"Learn to know thyself" 

Leaving home . 

Lebanon Mountains 

Leper hospital . 

Leper island . 

Leper physician 

Lepers . 

Licensed prostitutes . 

Madras, India 

Madras mission work 

Madras penitentiary 

Madras population . 

Madras wages 

Mamilla pool 

Mariette 

Mars Hill . . . 

Memphis 

Milk grotto 

Mission meetings . 

Miyanoshita. 

Mohammedan feast day 

Monkey temple in India . 

Moslem's prayer . 

Mother and child parted . 

Mrs. Besant on Theosophy 

Mrs. F. A. Nalor 

Mt. Calvary . 

Mt. Carmel 

Mt. Moriah . 

Mt. Olivet 

Mt. Tabor . 

Mt. Zion . . . . 

Museum of Gizeh . 



429 

. 185 
274 
, 254 
291 
4.5 
25 
357 
265 
30 
33 
260 
48 
72 
81 
76 
74 
75 
253 
180 
381 
174 
285 
84 
51 
318 
102 
156 
62 
82 

61 

228 
328 
215 
270 
341 
259 
182 



430 



INDEX. 



Nagasaki .... 
Nain .... 
Nazareth .... 
Ninety percent poor 

Parsee funeral . 

Parsee marriage 

Parsees .... 

Passport 

Paul in Athens . 

Paul in Ephesus 

Paul's escape from Damascus 

Penang .... 

Plains of Sharon 

Pool of Bethesda . 

Pool of Siloah . 

Population, Jerusalem . 

Port Said .... 

Prayag .... 

Prayer Mill 

Products of India . 

Public buildings, Jerusalem 

Pyramids 

Ramses II & lii 
Rachel's tomb . 
Railway to Jerusalem 
Ramleh .... 
Red Sea 
Religious services in Singapon 
Rev. Halicham Bannagee 
.River Kishon . . . , 
Religious services on shipboard 

Sacred tree . . . 

Sagar island .... 
Sailing for Joppa 
Salt Lake 



62 
353 
338 

86 

132 
130 
122 

19 
381 

375 
363 

69 
195 
213 
278 
213 
187 
110 

99 
100 
255 
170 

177 

282 

195 

195 

143 

69 

85 

3S1 

63 

109 

90 

187 

26 



INDEX. 



431 



San Francisco 


26 


Sea of Galileo 


. 346 


Sea rough 


37 


Seasickness . . . 


. , 29 


Shepherds' Field . . . . 


289 


Simasol 


. 371 


Singapore • 


66 


Smyrna, Asia Minor .... 


. 372 


Solomon's pools .... 


313 


Solomon's temple 


. 214 


Sphinx 


172 


Stables of Solomon .... 


. 220 


Stephen stoned 


266 


Strait of Malacca .... 


. 69 


Street called Straight, Damascus 


. . . 363 


Streets and shops in Jerusalem 


. 252 


St. .James' tomb . . . . 


278 


St. Mary's well 


.342 


Suez canal 


146 


Sakkara, Egypt 


. 173 


Table of time 


22 


Tea houses, Japan .... 


. 52 


Temple of Diana . . . • . 


374 


Thos. Cook & Son .... 


. 17 


Tiberias . . . 


393 


Tokio 


. 46 


Tomb of King David ... 


256 


Tomb of King Solomon 


. 256 


Tomb of Samuel .... 


321 


Tomb of the Khedives .... 


. 165 


Tomb of the Virgin .... 


266 


Tripoli 


. 367 


Turkish funeral .... 


365 


Tyre and Sidon 


. 334 


Valley of Achor .... 


296 


Valley of Eschol 


. 314 



432 



Il^DEX. 



Valley of Hinnom 
Valley of Jehoshaphat , 
Valley of the Kidron 
Via Dolorosa 
Walls of Jerusalem . 
Wheelbarrows in Japan 
Wonders of the sea . 
Worshiping the river 
Yokohama 
Zacharias' tomb . ~ 



279 

274 

260 

248 

210 

54 

30 

93 

39 

278 




588 




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